tldr:
What steel would you all recommend for these two tools (a scorp aka curved drawknife, and a travisher aka curved spokeshave)? And where would you recommend ordering it from for the best price+shipping/quality/service given that I live in Western Washington state, near Seattle?
I've been getting more into handtool woodworking lately and I want to try some less common tools, but I don't really have the funds to buy nice examples, and cheap examples from Amazon or ebay often seem to be worse than nothing at all. I also love metalworking, and get a kick out of making things to make things. The most immediate tools that I have a use for are a scorp and a travisher for chairmaking. Basically the convex curved equivalents of a drawknife and spokeshave, respectively.
I did some blacksmithing in my teens and early twenties, but the only blades I ever attempted to make were from various repurposed mystery metals (leaf springs, worn out rasps, etc.) and my knowledge of HT techniques is only a little bit better than "anneal, heat until its not magnetic, quench in oil, polish, temper by heating from the thick side and watch the colors to estimate hardness."
I still have a small ~120lb anvil, a selection of hammers and tongs, small oxy-acetylene torch setup, big propane torch, and I can improvise a small forge that I think will work for trying this out. I can probably barter with some locals I know to use their forges if I need to also.
I'm trying to figure out what kind of steel to buy and where to source it. I've skimmed through everything that came up by searching 'drawknife' and found the suppliers list, but there doesn't seem to be a ton of comparison info about the various suppliers.
I'm leaning towards a simple high carbon steel like 1084, but 15n20 and 80crV2 also sound like they could be good options given my skills and equipment. I know that O1 is a very common steel for forged woodworking tools, but I gather that doing a "correct" HT on it requires the ability to control temperature more accurately than I reasonably can with the equipment I have access to.
What steel would you all recommend for these two tools (a scorp aka curved drawknife, and a travisher aka curved spokeshave)? And where would you recommend ordering it from for the best price+shipping/quality/service given that I live in Western Washington state, near Seattle?
I've been getting more into handtool woodworking lately and I want to try some less common tools, but I don't really have the funds to buy nice examples, and cheap examples from Amazon or ebay often seem to be worse than nothing at all. I also love metalworking, and get a kick out of making things to make things. The most immediate tools that I have a use for are a scorp and a travisher for chairmaking. Basically the convex curved equivalents of a drawknife and spokeshave, respectively.
I did some blacksmithing in my teens and early twenties, but the only blades I ever attempted to make were from various repurposed mystery metals (leaf springs, worn out rasps, etc.) and my knowledge of HT techniques is only a little bit better than "anneal, heat until its not magnetic, quench in oil, polish, temper by heating from the thick side and watch the colors to estimate hardness."
I still have a small ~120lb anvil, a selection of hammers and tongs, small oxy-acetylene torch setup, big propane torch, and I can improvise a small forge that I think will work for trying this out. I can probably barter with some locals I know to use their forges if I need to also.
I'm trying to figure out what kind of steel to buy and where to source it. I've skimmed through everything that came up by searching 'drawknife' and found the suppliers list, but there doesn't seem to be a ton of comparison info about the various suppliers.
I'm leaning towards a simple high carbon steel like 1084, but 15n20 and 80crV2 also sound like they could be good options given my skills and equipment. I know that O1 is a very common steel for forged woodworking tools, but I gather that doing a "correct" HT on it requires the ability to control temperature more accurately than I reasonably can with the equipment I have access to.