Toohr #3 knife sharpener

[Bdtry]

Thanks for the follow up.

No pics in you #233 post :-(

How did you disassemble the slide holding the bearings? Those two screws on the end? Do you know the size if I need to add any?
I did clean everything multiple times and it does slide "OK".

And is this the video you're referring to"
777 Edge re bearings

Watch for my next post asking how to measure the angle correctly. I'm not sure if I have to measure the angle of the block that tightens the blade holder and add/subtract from the angle of the stone Or just use the angle of the stone. Obviously a total n00b here.

Not sure what is going on, if you click the X images it will bring you to imgur where the pictures will display. Do you even see the images that show a red X over a picture?

I knew that (not). My confusion stemmed from a YouTuber saying something like ... "zero the table your system is on, measure the angle of the 'angle cube' multiply by you social security number and subtract the winning Power Ball number, after which ..."

I really like simple. And this seems like a great tool to learn sharpening. Probably going to spring for your Gritomatic clamp system down the road.

Thanks again.

No need to zero on the table you system is on, has nothing to do with calculating the angle. As 777 Edge said, you zero on the system where it is in line with the clamps, then you put it on the back stone holder portion. Note: Some systems are different, you zero on the arm then measure the angle by the clamps, but this is because the clamps change angle instead of the arm.

 

[Lemarque]

Not sure what is going on, if you click the X images it will bring you to imgur where the pictures will display. Do you even see the images that show a red X over a picture?

No need to zero on the table you system is on, has nothing to do with calculating the angle. As 777 Edge said, you zero on the system where it is in line with the clamps, then you put it on the back stone holder portion. Note: Some systems are different, you zero on the arm then measure the angle by the clamps, but this is because the clamps change angle instead of the arm.

Blar. All this time I assumed that the red x meant the image wasn't available or removed/deleted.

So if I disassemble the slider bearing block and need extra bearings, just buy a complete assembly here? :

guide slider bearing block

 

[777 Edge]

So if I disassemble the slider bearing block and need extra bearings, just buy a complete assembly here? :

guide slider bearing block

You shouldn't need another bearing assembly. Just take your time and carefully disassemble, clean, lube, reassemble and it'll be as smooth as butter.

 

[Bdtry]

Blar. All this time I assumed that the red x meant the image wasn't available or removed/deleted.

So if I disassemble the slider bearing block and need extra bearings, just buy a complete assembly here? :

guide slider bearing block

Honestly, it seems like the space might be needed for the bearing to operate properly, gives it some room to prevent the balls from binding. If you take it apart just make sure you put an even amount back in each side. Like I said, I had 44 in each side of mine. If you are missing a whole lot you could try messaging the seller and they might give you a partial refund to cover the replacement parts. Or you could measure the diameter of the balls with a good caliper and order some extra balls from amazon or ebay or the like instead of an entire bearing unit.

Just make sure that you use something to clean out the channel of all the swarf. A small ball of paper and some degreaser pushed through with a toothpick works, or smaller pipe cleaners if you have some. Once I did that it made a very noticeable difference with how smoothly it glided.

Same with the upright unit. Making sure the bearing on the bottom is installed in the right place and everything is tightened evenly to remove the backlash made for an extremely smooth turning rod. I can easily get less than 0.1° by turning it a minute amount, my angle gauge can't even pick up increments that small. You can even test to learn just how much each turn gives you to quickly make adjustments that are close to the angle you desire.

 

[Lemarque]

Honestly, it seems like the space might be needed for the bearing to operate properly, gives it some room to prevent the balls from binding. If you take it apart just make sure you put an even amount back in each side. Like I said, I had 44 in each side of mine. If you are missing a whole lot you could try messaging the seller and they might give you a partial refund to cover the replacement parts. Or you could measure the diameter of the balls with a good caliper and order some extra balls from amazon or ebay or the like instead of an entire bearing unit.

Just make sure that you use something to clean out the channel of all the swarf. A small ball of paper and some degreaser pushed through with a toothpick works, or smaller pipe cleaners if you have some. Once I did that it made a very noticeable difference with how smoothly it glided.

Same with the upright unit. Making sure the bearing on the bottom is installed in the right place and everything is tightened evenly to remove the backlash made for an extremely smooth turning rod. I can easily get less than 0.1° by turning it a minute amount, my angle gauge can't even pick up increments that small. You can even test to learn just how much each turn gives you to quickly make adjustments that are close to the angle you desire.

I noticed yesterday, after cleaning/clearing the bench where I assembled the unit, one bearing, by itself, mocking me.
I'll try contacting the seller and if I can't get a new block I'll just buy one from Ali.

 

[Lemarque]

Spoke with AMZ customer service and they are handling it.

OK. Full disclosure. They are sending another system free and I don't have to return mine.

But I deny ever posting this.

 

[Lemarque]

Honestly, it seems like the space might be needed for the bearing to operate properly, gives it some room to prevent the balls from binding. If you take it apart just make sure you put an even amount back in each side. Like I said, I had 44 in each side of mine. If you are missing a whole lot you could try messaging the seller and they might give you a partial refund to cover the replacement parts. Or you could measure the diameter of the balls with a good caliper and order some extra balls from amazon or ebay or the like instead of an entire bearing unit.

Just make sure that you use something to clean out the channel of all the swarf. A small ball of paper and some degreaser pushed through with a toothpick works, or smaller pipe cleaners if you have some. Once I did that it made a very noticeable difference with how smoothly it glided.

Same with the upright unit. Making sure the bearing on the bottom is installed in the right place and everything is tightened evenly to remove the backlash made for an extremely smooth turning rod. I can easily get less than 0.1° by turning it a minute amount, my angle gauge can't even pick up increments that small. You can even test to learn just how much each turn gives you to quickly make adjustments that are close to the angle you desire.

I just went thru all of the posts again (all 19 pages) and really appreciate the details you provide on setup and cleaning.

 

[Handy_Andy]

I’ve done ALOT of upgrades and will be posting soon. I’ll show how to replace the brass bushings as well, even though they really don’t have much effect on the system. I also used old bearings with longer screws to raise the rotating assembly since I couldn’t get my hands on the part from gritomatic

 

[razorburn]

Mine is due to arrive on Monday, that's would be a week and a half.

i have the both the Ruixin Pro 008 and 009, they both have limitations, a clamp that's too wide for smaller blades or when sharpening a longer blade the guide rod bumps against the tower.Other times the guide rod eyelet holder reaches the full movement left or right.

 

[Lemarque]

A question or two.

What are these screws that are on the side of clamps for?

My original system was replaced by the seller and I noticed when disassembling the old one, that one of the bearings in the gimble where the rod goes thru, had fallen out. As was noted in a previous post, are these the correct replacements?
Gimble

Any issues if I use say, one of the 400 grit stones that came with the system to remove some of the material on the top leading edge of the clamps? So that, under the circumstances where the angle of the stone might interfere with the clamp.

I did disassemble and clean the slider block but didn't find much, if any contamination. This systems seem like a unicorn. Everything seems clean and aligned.

One thing I did discover is that the wheel for the angle adjuster (on the very top) ( i.e the screw that holds it to the center rod) was rubbing on the top of the holder. Making it difficult to turn. I simply backed off the screw and lifted the knurled knob about a 32nd. of an inch re-tightened and it now spins easily.

And is the the correct adapter:
Parking adapter

 

[777 Edge]

What are these screws that are on the side of clamps for?

Those seem to be for a V shaped knife alignment guide that attaches to the side of the clamp that I've seen in some photos. Not really a useful addition in my opinion.

Any issues if I use say, one of the 400 grit stones that came with the system to remove some of the material on the top leading edge of the clamps? So that, under the circumstances where the angle of the stone might interfere with the clamp.

It won't cause any issues, other than cosmetic - as long as you don't remove so much material that it affects the rigidity of the clamp's leading edge.

For your bearing replacement question, as far as I remember it's LM8UU bearings. Polymer bearings also work very well, in many cases better than linear ball bearings, FYI.

 

[Lemarque]

Those seem to be for a V shaped knife alignment guide that attaches to the side of the clamp that I've seen in some photos. Not really a useful addition in my opinion.





It won't cause any issues, other than cosmetic - as long as you don't remove so much material that it affects the rigidity of the clamp's leading edge.

For your bearing replacement question, as far as I remember it's LM8UU bearings. Polymer bearings also work very well, in many cases better than linear ball bearings, FYI.

I'll wait on removing any material from the clamp. I'm buying some used knives from the Bay to practice with.
Also going to try those polymer LM8UU bearings.

And to fess up, I'm soooo suggestible that I purchased the Universal Angled Clamps and adapter. Did I need them? "I'm not addicted, I can stop whenever I want to"

 

[777 Edge]

And to fess up, I'm soooo suggestible that I purchased the Universal Angled Clamps and adapter. Did I need them? "I'm not addicted, I can stop whenever I want to"

Those are really nice to have and well worth having, you won't be sorry. Just make sure you also get the Gearconnect clamp adapters from Gritomatic. You can't attach the Hapstone universal angled clamps onto the TooHR bar without those adapters.

If you want smaller and thinner clamps without the need to remove material from your TooHR clamps, then the Hapstone Lite clamps are a good choice too. Hapstone has just recently started making them again.

 

[Lemarque]

Those are really nice to have and well worth having, you won't be sorry. Just make sure you also get the Gearconnect clamp adapters from Gritomatic. You can't attach the Hapstone universal angled clamps onto the TooHR bar without those adapters.

If you want smaller and thinner clamps without the need to remove material from your TooHR clamps, then the Hapstone Lite clamps are a good choice too. Hapstone has just recently started making them again.

I didn't realize that the clamps and adapter don't come with thumbscrews; just screws.

Can you tell me what thumbscrews I should order? ?M5x30 by what length?

 

[777 Edge]

I didn't realize that the clamps and adapter don't come with thumbscrews; just screws.

Can you tell me what thumbscrews I should order? ?M5x30 by what length?

Tell Gritomatic what you need them for and they will supply you with the right thumbscrews.

 

[Lemarque]

Tell Gritomatic what you need them for and they will supply you with the right thumbscrews.

Edit//

I found some online but ...

Please see my next post.

It's just that I can get them by tomorrow if I order from AMZ

 

[777 Edge]

Edit//

I found some online but ...

Please see my next post.

It's just that I can get them by tomorrow if I order from AMZ

You will need to order the Hapstone adapters for TSProf/TooHR from Gritomatic, they are the only ones that supply them. At the same time, just ask them for the right thumb screws.

You'll need these adapters:

Hapstone Clamp Adapter for TSProf K03

GearConnect adapter to use Hapstone clamps of standard size on TSProf knife sharpener (K03 or Kadet) in K03 Profile.Read more about GearConnect for TSProf.Attention! GearConnect adapters use 4 mm hex sockets, no tools included. All adapters are sold in singles, never in pairs. GEARCONNECT is the...

www.gritomatic.com

 

[Lemarque]

The Universal Angled Clamps with adapter from Gritomatic has quite a bit of play when applying a slight amount of downward pressure on the end of the clamp where the blade attaches. The thin 'arms" flex. Wouldn't this cause the angle to change?

 

[Lemarque]

You will need to order the Hapstone adapters for TSProf/TooHR from Gritomatic, they are the only ones that supply them. At the same time, just ask them for the right thumb screws.

You'll need these adapters:

Hapstone Clamp Adapter for TSProf K03

GearConnect adapter to use Hapstone clamps of standard size on TSProf knife sharpener (K03 or Kadet) in K03 Profile.Read more about GearConnect for TSProf.Attention! GearConnect adapters use 4 mm hex sockets, no tools included. All adapters are sold in singles, never in pairs. GEARCONNECT is the...

www.gritomatic.com

Those are the adapters I have.

 

[777 Edge]

The thin 'arms" flex. Wouldn't this cause the angle to change?

No, not at all. That's a common misunderstanding with these types of spring steel clamps. Yes, they are very flexible when not clamped and tightened but that's the beauty of their design. Because of their flexibility, they are made to be able to adjust and to conform with the grind of a knife blade. They become rigid when clamped.

When you clamp them on a blade and tighten them, they become solid as can be. The action of clamping them makes them a rigid triangular truss, very secure with minimal flex.