Will this 1095 steel give me a good hamon?

Hm...
I found another website with this version of 1095:

1.1274 (AISI 1095)​

  • C 0.90 – 1.03%
  • Si 0,15 – 0,30 %.
  • Mn 0,30 – 0,50
  • P ≤ 0.035%
  • S ≤ 0.035%
 
That is a general range analysis. Your sample is pretty much in the same range on what counts, and is a little cleaner in S and P.
Your bar of steel should get a good hamon if the procedure is done correctly.

Do you have any experience in creating a hamon? If not, there are many threads where I and others walk you through the fine details. Temperature, quench rate and type, clay application and position, and then the polish9ng all make the stars align.
Even then, you have to practice and learn how to do it to get a really active hamon.
 
I dont have any experience in creating it, i watched a ton of videos about it and read even more about it, but feel free to post links to those threads
thanks
 
Now im just torn between buying 1 meter of this for 45€
  • C 0.90 – 1.03%
  • Si 0,15 – 0,30 %.
  • Mn 0,30 – 0,50 %
  • P ≤ 0.035%
  • S ≤ 0.035%
Or buying half a meter of this one (UHB20C) for 30€
  • C 1%
  • Si 0,3 %.
  • Mn 0,45 %
  • P max 0.015%
  • S max 0.006%
Any toughts from you?
 
Since you are from Croatia, I'd say you will be better off with U10A. Much better than 1095 and you can find it through rockbladekilns from Italy. It's a bit more expensive but the results are far superior.
 
I think im gonna go for 1 meter of 1095 from slovenian TomTek for 45€ total rather than half a meter U10A for 45€ cause i want to make more knives for my family or myb even one for selling. Also 6mm in U10A is thicker than i want so theres that. But thank you for helping out!!!
 
I hear your argument over the cost, however in my opinion it's worth the extra cost (roughly 55 euros for 1m bar).

I'm not sure whether or not it's still available but eurotechni used to have c130 which is also a better option than 1095.

Once you give it a o, show us some pictures!
 
Eurotechni's w2 is actually 135c3 which is pretty similar to w2 but has extra chromium if I remember correctly, which is not so good for hamons.
 
Now im beyond confused and dont know what to buy
1. TomTek 1095 3.5 x 50 x 1000mm 45€
  • C 0.90 – 1.03%
  • Si 0.15 – 0.30%
  • Mn 0.30 – 0.50%
  • P ≤ 0.035%
  • S ≤ 0.035%
2. Eurotechni W2 / 135CR3 5 x 35 x 1000mm for 47€
  • C 1.3%
  • Si 0.15%
  • Mn 0.25%
  • Cr 0.2%
    Why does it say those specs on their website but when i download technical sheet it comes with these values?? -> C 1.3%, Si 0.2%, Mn 0.35%, Cr 0.74%, Mo 0.2%, V 0.08% Ni 0.07% ???

3. Eurotechni C130 / C125U / AISI W112 80 x 3 x 1000mm for 52€ (wider than both so myb even better value?)
  • C 1.25%
  • Si 0.19%
  • Mn 0.29%
  • Cr 0.19%
Technical sheet : C 1.26%, Si 0.189%, Mn 0.296%, Cr 0.197%
 
If you want a hamon, use the C130. I think the lower Si and Mn will outweigh the slight Cr content.
 
I agree with Stacy, c130 will be the best of those three.

If I remember correctly, I have some 3mm thick c130. If you are willing to cover the shipping costs, I can send you for free a piece of c130 3x80x200 and a piece of 1095 3.5x50x200 to try both.
 
Thank you for the offer brother but i still aint sure about c130, im trying every possible google search of it and just cant find any good info on it. I just see some tech sheets and they all say that it should be heat treated in water / fast quench oil. Now my question is do you think vegetable oil will work with it for hamon, or 1095 will work better with veg oil??
 
I would rather use steel wich is widely used and known so i can get better info on it you know? i just cant seem to find anyone on yt or anywhere explaining something about c130
 
Found this on W2 steel video from someone testing it with water brine and oil:
"Most people think that water alone is the reason why blades crack, that’s actually not the case. The vapor jacket is a tricky bastard, and although you can’t see it, that uneven vapor jacket is what causes warping and sometimes cracks.

That’s why I use super quench (brine + detergent soap) in a large container. The heat is absorbed without issue and the soap breaks up that vapor jacket. This quench is actually FASTER than water, yet safer.

Which is why it’s the only quenchant for me when it come to stuff like W1 tool steel or 1095. Never cracked a blade with my method.

it is ~7% salt, much like the sea :) It’s 0.5lbs salt (250g) per 1 gallon of water."
 
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