I just received my Work Sharp Pro Precision Adjust. My knives were in terrible shape and are definitely sharper now. But I seem to have reached a sharpening plateau. I have a few questions.
1. I have reprofiled my bevels with the 220 grit. Do I need to move through all the steels from 220 to 800? Or can I skip every other one and still expect good results?
2. As I move from a coarser grit to a finer grit, should I expect the burr to be less prominent? I get a pretty big burr with 220, but it’s a lot more subtle with the finer grits. Should I keep honing with the finer grits until I get a "big burr"?
3. I have a jeweler’s loupe to inspect the scratch pattern on the bevel. I have read that it’s time to move to the next finer grit when the scratch pattern is complete all the way to the apex, all along the blade on both sides. I can’t really tell the difference between the scratches of 220 and 320 (or 400 or 800 for that matter). What should I be looking for?
I’m new at this. I read some the pinned threads about sharpening in the Maintenance sub-forum, but I’m not getting the "push-cut" edges yet.
1. I have reprofiled my bevels with the 220 grit. Do I need to move through all the steels from 220 to 800? Or can I skip every other one and still expect good results?
2. As I move from a coarser grit to a finer grit, should I expect the burr to be less prominent? I get a pretty big burr with 220, but it’s a lot more subtle with the finer grits. Should I keep honing with the finer grits until I get a "big burr"?
3. I have a jeweler’s loupe to inspect the scratch pattern on the bevel. I have read that it’s time to move to the next finer grit when the scratch pattern is complete all the way to the apex, all along the blade on both sides. I can’t really tell the difference between the scratches of 220 and 320 (or 400 or 800 for that matter). What should I be looking for?
I’m new at this. I read some the pinned threads about sharpening in the Maintenance sub-forum, but I’m not getting the "push-cut" edges yet.
