100% new to leather and wanting to get started gathering what's needed to make sheath

KnuckleDownKnives

KnuckleDownKnives

Time to make the doughnuts..
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Feb 12, 2015
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As the title states I want to get started in making leather sheaths. I have zero experience with leather but I do know how to sew. I've been making knives now for a little over a year, and the direction I've found myself after this last one, I want to be able to make leather sheaths as kydex is really not suitable for the type of knive I want to start making. I'm not abandoning them all together, but leather would suit much better.

I have not leather tools as of now and don't know where to start other than I'd rather but individual tools vs a kit/set of tools I don't really need. What type of leather to buy, as much information anyone is willing to help with is much appreciated.

Sorry if this has been covered before but this is new territory for me and not sure where to start. I'm a fast learner and don't think it will be very hard once I get a good nudge in the right direction.

Thanks in advance,
Marc
 
Get Paul Long DVD's best money you will ever invest in the leather world. It's nice to have good tools but the knowledge is where Paul's DVD's will help you get started
 
I was in your shoes a few years ago Marc, needed to make a sheath but didn't have the first clue about where to start. I think I got pretty lucky by stumbling on Ian Atkinson's youtube channel. In my opinion it's the best free video instruction for the beginner to intermediate level leatherworker. His more recent videos are not about sheaths, but he does make some in his older vids. But the skills he's showing you can be used on pretty much any leather project, and he has specific videos on tools and materials.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTfMRaVyCd4&t=2323s

Paul, who posted above me, sells DVDs specific to sheathmaking. I haven't bought one, but a lot of people here rave about them, so that'd be another option.

I do have a bunch of leatherworking books, but for the most part they just collect dust. But that might depend a lot on your learning style, I just get a lot more out of video.


I'm happy to answer any specific questions from a beginner/hobbyist perspective, but that should give you a place to start.

One last thing, in case you don't watch the video I linked: Avoid tool Kits, for the most part they're cheap junk.
 
I'm a bit unusual I think , but I actually try to use and own the least amount of tools necessary to complete a sheath .
There are many great threads here to advise what tool is required to achieve certain tasks , and many of the respondents are absolute masters of their craft so I wouldnt even try to advise you on individual tools .
But the one piece of advice I would give is dont get caught up in the " Bells and Whistles " attitude of all the latest gadgets are essential to sucess .
Keep it simple , keep it fun .

Good luck .

Ken
 
Marc sound advice from all here. I would also add use the best leather that you can. I firmly believe that quality leather is one of the biggest if not the biggest factor in the quality, appearance and durability of the end product. This was brought up in another thread recently and I've really been thinking about it since. I've got decades of experience, thousands of sheaths under my belt, all the tools a guy could need and if ya gave me some junky ole piece of belly all wrinkled and squishy, I can't make a decent sheath from that.

As a knife maker you've already probalby got two important tools. Your drill press and your grinder. You can use your drill press to make the holes for hand sewing. The grinder you can use to even up all your edges and really make those layers look like one. I have a dedicated 120 ceramic belt and a 400 grit A/O belt just for leather.

As far as leather tools to make a sheath:

1) You need a knife to cut out your sheath. I use a roundknife but these are expensive. Many guys do just fine with utility knives, boxcutters, exacto knives etc.. When I first started I did an awful lot of leather work with a Case trapper.

2) Stitching groover. I've used a Tandy one for years In fact I have two. They are relatively cheap $15-20 or so. This is one of those deals where the inexpensive tool is about as good as the expensive ones.

3) A #2 edger. This is a tool that more expensive is better. That being said I find I use a middle of the road one just as much as the more expensive ones. More often than not I grab a Osborne Western Edger in #2 size out of my edger drawer. These are $45 from Weaver. A guy could use the grinder or even hand sand to replace this tool. For $45 don't. But also I wouldn't go any cheaper. Another knife making tool you proably already have is used to keep this tool sharp. I use a buffer with a medium wheel and green scratch remover compound. As soon as this tool starts dragging I touch it to the edge of the wheel for just a second.

4) Needles and thread. I'll leave this for somebody that hand sews to help ya with.

5) If ya want to do some tooling a guy can sure get a lot done with just a camo border stamp and a basket stamp. These are other tools where the more expensive ones are better than the less. Course they are optional for building a sheath.

Ok now we can buld a sheath once you throw in some contact cement.
 
Needles and thread:

Get some Harness Needles, the small eye is the key. Avoid the "big eye" needles, yea they are easier to thread but the flex they go through as they are used makes them break very quickly. Tandy carries three sizes of harness needles, I use both the large and medium depending on my thread.

Thread, The "Tejas" thread is plenty fine, but is very large and normally over waxed. Tandy has a nice selection of Sewing Awl threads that work very well. If you really get in to colors, look up Tiger Thread, amazing stuff and well worth trying out.
 
I suspect most of us here have seen a few winters and have done our share of learning .
I own a business and as a result I spend a reasonable amount of time training and teaching people new skills .
After many years of hair loss and high blood pressure it has become apparent that the best training /learning activities are actually " doing the job " .
I have learned to say " I don't care how you do it , but this is the outcome I want " , " if you come up with a better way or idea than I'm going to show you , then I'm all ears " .
I don't know who said it but its true " Show me a man who has never made a mistake and I'll show you a man who has never made anything ".
It might not sound correct or typical of the helpful nature and ethos of this forum , but make a sheath and learn from your mistakes .
You will discover what is required and what is surplus , you may go down a road that is totally different from everyone else so your tool requirements will differ from the herd .
You are absolutely correct in asking about the basic requirements , but after that its all up to you .

If everyone of the experts here posted a pic of their first sheath , you would probably doubt their title of expert .

Ken
 
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Thanks again for the replies.

So if I were looking a tandy's site to purchase leather would the craftsman and oak leaf in the tooling leather section be considered "using the best leather I can"? I plan on going forward soon, I've got the tools under wraps, easy to understand what I need and for what in that department. I'm not looking to do fancy stuff with overlays and such right now, I def will in the future possibly, right now just a good ole leather sheath. Not interested in buying pre finished i'd rather dye it myself. Thanks.
 
My personal opinion is that for the most part "imported leather" as a broad group is definitely not the best leather. Some of the European tannage is very good. I am also of the opinion that the cheapest leather you can find also turns out to be the most expensive leather you will ever TRY to use. The sad results and throw aways far exceed the difference in price.

When dealing for leather, make sure you specify USA tannery. If possible, always inspect the leather before you buy. Make sure the piece is firm, not dried out, and is not "spongy" and limber on the flesh side. Bellies have a use, but not for top grade goods....EVER. It also doesn't hurt to do a small test spot for accepting Neatsfoot oil satisfactorily. This is generally a sign of how well it will accept dyes also.

I personally use and recommend Wickett & Craig Leather, all USA hides and USA tanning. Hermann Oak is also top grade most of the time. There are several Dealers who sell both. In order to not violate Forum rules you might want to seek information on the many dealers direct from some of the Forum members via direct email or private message.

Good luck

Paul
 
Thanks Paul. I had no idea trying to figure out what type of leather to buy was going to be this difficult.
 
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