440+1095 laminate need help

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hariklis

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Nov 11, 2013
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hi guy's, recently come to my posesion fair amount of 440 and 1095and also some 5160 from spring leaf, mostly for my knives i use 52100 and also the other 2 carbon steel's above, but since this 440 steel arrive it stuck in my mind to make some laminates with this , so here is the problem for me, i have done some laminates on the past but only with carbon steel, but never with inox like 440. so here i need your help guy's how i do hot soldering those steel's, i need a conteiner and oxygen free environment? or what? and another question is the 1095 and 5160 proper for such laminate? if not then what steel i must use? please guy's giveme your light's.
thank you in advance for your tip's
hariklis
P.S
oups i forgot to say i have only a gus forge, i can do inox laminate with this? or i need electrical oven?
 
That is not a good steel choice in my opinion. 440 is a hardenable knife steel that is hardened by quenching in still air. 1095 needs a fast quench and 5160 still needs oil. I would predict cracking of the 440 if you quench it fast enough to get the other steel hard. Something like 416 does not have as much carbon and does not harden to the extent that 440 will, so it will not be as stressed in the quench. I have laminated stainless to carbon steel and at this point have failed more than succeeded.
 
Most folks use 416 or 420. I don't see why 440 wouldn't work as well.

JMJones is forgetting that the blade will only be heated to 1475-1500F and quenched in fast oil. This won't do much at all to the 440, which is fine since it is just a san-mai. I would also expect that the 1095 won't harden fully in the main core. It should harden just fine in the edge area...which is all that matters.

That doesn't mean that there can't be sheared welds from hardening stress. I sure as heck would get it into the temper oven immediately.
 
I am not a metallurgist by any stretch, it was my impression that the higher temps and longer soak times for stainless is not necessary for it to form martensite but to have all of the alloys evenly distributed within the martensite or distributed in the manner that the steel composition was designed for. I still think that oil quenching even from three hundred degrees cooler than the stainless ht specs would cause stress and cracking. However I could be totally off base too.
 
thanx for the responce guy's i realy apreciated, think i'l give it a try since the material is already on hand, at least once to see what the result is. well what carbon steel i should use with for your opinion the 5160 or the 1095? and i need to put and seal the bilet in air proof can or not?
thanx in advance
hariklis
 
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