Axe info

Hello all. I’m new to the forum, but a longtime collector, restorer and user of many names and style of bits.
That being said I’m stumped! I recently acquired a single bit stamper only “TF” no weight stamp either. It as red as I can still see the paint on it from years and use past. The only info found was a post on here from 2010 mentioning True Temper as the maker? yet not much info was given. So I’m reaching out does anyone know anything regarding this mark? Any help is appreciated. Thanks a million everyone there’s some great info here and a lot of time put into the post. Thank you to everyone for the reads. You guys are awesome
 
RunAndGun10 said:
Bernie Weisgerber is known around here as OldAxeman. He hasn’t posted in a while so I inquired about him not too long ago. It was reported that he is well and keeping busy gardening and volunteer work. I hope he post again here soon.
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Thank you for the info. And the read. To answer your question yes it has been posted a number of years ago from another forum member. I came across the post not long ago but fell short with info regarding true temper and the mysterious TF stamp. Still coming up short but I know the answer is out there.
 
devilpig said:
My old neighbor gave me an old True Temper of some sort yesterday as well. I will re-handle it and clean it up a bit.

This axe addiction is going to get expensive. Looks like I'm gonna need to build some racks to hold them all.
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Is there a way to identify axes with no makers marks?

I have this double bit axe, and just curious. I recently broke the handle and want to buy a new one; not sure which size to get.

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I am brand new at this ,,,,C-45 for axe head?, I was looking for good quality sheet steel to plasma cut axe designs out of. but also wondering if it would make a decent blade to hold up well enough to command a better price for the money.
 
C-45 is rather low in carbon for a good axe. C-50 or C-55 would be better. These are steels that some European axe makers commonly use.
 
The hickory is better than the ash.

Heartwood and sapwood have the same mechanical properties provided that they are both straight grained and free of knot - even tiny pin knots. Heartwood is more likely to have small flaws. Heartwood is also slightly more pest/rot resistant than sapwood.
 
OK - 2023 - An Axe for dropping trees, not for optimized for splitting, not for collecting. For clearing a tree from the road or dropping a tree or many trees for a log cabin. Not a hatchet - for dropping trees. Also - it has to be available for purchase. Nobody wants an 8 year waitlist. (prefer hickory and not plastic handle since use is in the winter…) Yeah - and built to last for years of use. (If price is no object (within reason).)

Any good recommendations? (Gransfors Bruk American Felling Axe?)
 
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Also look at Council's 3.5 pound Jerseys. For cabin sized logs the 32" curved handle looks just about ideal.

And if your genuinely interested in dropping trees with human powered tools then you should buy a vintage crosscut saw that has been professionally sharpened. Use it in conjunction with the axe. With the saw you have much more control of how the tree falls.
 
Plumb Michigan I picked up today for $15. The haft was dry and half off, with a crack on the shoulder. So, I cleaned up the head with some oil, sandpaper, steel wool and some elbow grease. Haft needed some glue and a couple pins in the shoulder. I doubt this will ever see any work. I believe that this is the original haft for the axe head. The logo is smaller than I would expect.
Does anyone have an idea on the age of this axe?? Thanks.

Edit: Double post. I apologize.
 
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