Chainsaw bars?

Y

ydduit

i was told that you can use a chainsaw bar for knife making. does anyone know what type of steel is commonly used for a chainsaw bar?
How about info on heat treating?

Thanks,
YDD
 
I know a guy here in Virginia named Stuart Simmonds who uses chainsaw bars for his fantasy sword blades. I do not know what type of steel is used in them but he makes one heck of a sword out of them.

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If a man can keep alert and imaginative, an error is a possibility, a chance at something new; to him, wandering and wondering are a part of the same process. He is most mistaken, most in error, whenever he quits exploring.

William Least Heat Moon
 
I've seen reference to the use of bar steel also. As I have a huge saw bar off of some sort of portable sawmill type setup I hope that it is something good. someone told me it was 1095, but I doubt there is any standardization of these things?
 
This is an interesting idea, but I have no idea what type of steel is commonly used.Is the brand worn off the bar you have?
I would try and get in touch with someone from Stihl. They're the largest manufacturer of chainsaws and chainsaw accesories that I can think of.Partner ( if there still in bussiness) is another big company for chainsaws. I would try and get in touch with either one of them.
How big is the bar you have? My saw has a 20 inch bar and My uncle has one thats probably close to 3 feet. Thats the biggest I've seen other than the saws they use on redwoods and stuff.You can cut some big trees with a 3 ft bar though.

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Fix it right the first time, use Baling Wire !
 
I do chemical analysis on metal . If someone wants to send me a 1" square piece along with name brand I will post results. If I get several different manufactures,I will make up a chart and post. Stamp out mystery metal. Rex
 
I just came to this forum to post this exact question.
Can someone please jump in and share the knowledge about chainsaw guide bars?
I'm itching to know if these are a cutlery grade steel and what the Rc is as they come from the manufacturer.
Any and all answers are greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance for your assistance in this Q!

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If it's stupid but works, then it isn't stupid!
 
Rex,
Would it be alright to cut samples with a cutting torch? Also do you know what most files are made of? I have heard W-1&W-2.
I have an abundance of old files and hoof rasp.
Thanks
Steve
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Rex,
Would it be alright to cut samples with a cutting torch? Also do you know what most files are made of? I have heard W-1&W-2.
I have an abundance of old files and hoof rasp.
Thanks
Steve
confused.gif

 
stihl bars are 1095 says the saw shop they make a good knife the steel will harden to rc 65 at qwench on the saw they normaly are rc30
 
I have made several bowies and camp knives from chain bars. They heat treat nice and seem to hold an edge. I also practiced making damascus with them because they are free. Use a chop saw and blend in some L6 saw blades.If you come to Walla Walla I will help you load your truck. I have about 200 pounds of them. Bruce
 
Sure just make the sample piece a little bigger,about 3 inches long as the torch will burn out some carbon and manganese.
A 3 inch piece will let me grind away the heataffected zone and get a true analysis.
 
First knife I ever made was from a chainsaw bar, a little over 12 years ago. Never heattreated that one. It was hard. Held a good edge, and sharpened up nicely. Took 6 months to file the bevels on that thing (course I was using old warn out files, and it was a 16" bowie knife that was 2.5" wide). Now days I use ATS-34 and micarta, but I will always remember the love hate relationship with filing that chainsaw bar.

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Lynn Griffith-Knifemaker

BG-42 is now an option

griffithknives.com
GriffithKN@aol.com
Griffith Knives Forum
 
Most Excellent!
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I've been eyeballin' them for awhile now at the Home Depot and every time I see them I wonder if they would make a good, tough knife.
The bug has bitten! I'm gonna give it a whirl and see how it comes out!
Thanks a million fellas!
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If it's stupid but works, then it isn't stupid!
 
Misque,

Are you serious about buying new from HD? I hope not. There are other sources that are considerably cheaper.

Mike
 
i may be wrong but you may want to look close at the bar most of the new ones are 3 pieces spot welded together,i have a whole stack of old ones that are 1 piece
 
DCK8
you are right, alot of the new ones are 3 piece. however, i find that if you split the layers with a cold chisel, you can get several filet/boning blades out of each side. they make for a very flexable filet knife that will keep a good edge. after some exprimenting I found I get the best results by heating to a brite cherry red and quenching in 125 deg oil. Temper at about 450 for 1/2 hour. I have had good luck with this process. hope this helps. You can probibly use this thinner material for liners also.
(I might have to try a linerlock project next)
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[This message has been edited by ydduit (edited 02-02-2000).]
 
3 pieces?!
YIKES!!!
Glad I asked here first. I've run across some in an old hardware store, I'll go back and make sure they are 1 piece. You guys are right, HD is kinda expensive. I've seen cheaper elsewhere.
Thank You all VERY much!
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