Chris Reeve Green Beret Video Desrtuction Test Completed

[Cobalt]

If the GB would have actually made it that far as other knives have, I am sure Noss would have hammered the GB edge first into something hard as well. The knives that have held up well have been tested both ways as you can see in his videos. The problem is that the GB never got to those test, which is really the point here. I have the feeling that many of the critics here have not actually watched Noss's test of the Battle Mistress, so they lack a point of reference.

Exactly, and why is it so hard for some to see that point.

It isn't so much if the knife will fail, but how much it can take before it does fail.

 

[DutchV]

I've always been taught that there was a right tool for every job - knife, hatchet, axe, wood chisel, concrete chisel, whatever. Dad never let us boys abuse tools. And I'm in no rush to ruin a decent knife that I bought with my own cash. That said, it's also pretty cool to know that a blade can take it if things get rough. If I've got a really ugly job, and nothing at hand but a knife, it'd sure be nice to have brought the right one. Cutting rope and batoning through cordwood aren't in quite the same class as say, prying open a car door or punching a new emergency exit in the skin of an airplane.

Thanks to Noss for his neato hobby. I'm looking forward to more tests - maybe an Ontario Spec Plus SP1 Marine Combat model?

 

[Gary W. Graley]

This is a busy thread indeed, growing by the minute
Noss, good of you to test these things, I know I'd not
push my knives to those points BUT I remember when
I got my Cold Steel Tanto and seeing them drive it into
a 55 gallon drum, what do you think the first thing I tried
with it was? Yep, a 55 gallon drum, BUT I needed to
put holes in the bottom for drainage as I was making a
burning barrel. The knife did very well, no damage to the
tip or the edge, very solid. Later on I finally gave thought
to what would have happened to my arm if the blade gave
way or the rubber handle slid free down onto the sharp edge YIKES
disaster for sure, luckily it didn't and the urge has passed for me
to do such things. But as I say, it's good to see someone giving it
a go and seeing just where that envelope ends.

I use to read a lot and remember in one of Alistair MacLean novel called
- Where Eagles Dare -
In the book, the heros leap onto a slanted roof of a sky line lift shanty up
on the mountain side, the only way into the fortress.
Of course it was coated in ice and snow, the one fellow stabbed his knife
into the ice to stop his sliding but it broke at the guard and down he slid
further, as I remember he grabbed his flashlight, unscrewed the end, dumping the
batteries and using that hollow tool he again stabbed into the ice and snow and was saved.

A novel yes, but, you can envision that desperate times calls for tools that
do not fail you, so if you are able to come away from any destructive tests
and say, 'yeah, that one didn't do too bad, I'd trust my life with that'
then good for you, or if you feel how it turned out is too abusive, then as
suggested, figure out a way to run your own test to the best of your ability.

For me, I hopefully will never fall into harms way that I have to depend on a knife
for my life, but, you never never can tell what one day or the next will bring you.

G2

 

[noss4]

Gary W. Graley: The Flashlight part of your post reminds me of the time I was driving in bad weather late at night. I turned under an underpass an ran over some debris from the flooding. I blew out my driver side rear tire. I was driving a compact car at the time and the maker supplied a compact tire wrench as well. The handle on the lug wrench was to short and I could not get enough leverage to break loose the lug nuts. I didn't know what I going to do at first. Maybe call a wrecker but I didn't have any money to pay for it. I had my 5 D cell mag flashlight in the back. I tried to use it to hit the handle on the lug wrench first to break the nuts loose this didn't work. So I removed the batteries and used the long flashlight and place it over the end of the wrench so I could increase the leverage. This worked great and I was able to change my tire and make it home.

Rethinking how a to use the flashlight got the job done and saved me a huge tow truck fee. Money I didn't have at the time anyway. The Flashlight got me out of a tough jam and the flashlight still works just fine to this day. :thumbup:

 

[Hard H2O]

You can't tell how hard someone is swinging a hammer while watching him?

Tell me what is the force being applied? Use whatever units of measurement you wish.

Looks to me like there is quite a bit of force. "Quite a bit" is more than "not so much" and less than "about a ton".

 

[Hard H2O]

i'm not convinced that the ones who don't agree with the "tests" are just angry crk fans. i believe most are ppl who just don't agree with the tests themselves. noss received the same responses when his first test was posted on the forums.

I fall into that category. I do not collect. I am not a fanboy. The knives I have are users and retail for far less than $300. I do not baton them. I have hatchets and saws for gathering firewood. I have a custom hunting knife and a Buck skinner. How many knives can I use at one time?

The test and video are interesting. He had the cahones and pocketbook to destroy a $300 knife. As a scientific teat I am not convinced as to the validity. As an observational curiosity it is interesting.

 

[Buffalohump]

That's a good story. You should write and tell Maglite about it. I gave my Maglite away years ago to my brother and have carried Fenix and Surefire instead. I guess they would have been no help in that scenario.

In future, keep a can of WD-40 in your car. Nothing loosens nuts like that stuff. :thumbup:

Gary W. Graley: The Flashlight part of your post reminds me of the time I was driving in bad weather late at night. I turned under an underpass an ran over some debris from the flooding. I blew out my driver side rear tire. I was driving a compact car at the time and the maker supplied a compact tire wrench as well. The handle on the lug wrench was to short and I could not get enough leverage to break loose the lug nuts. I didn't know what I going to do at first. Maybe call a wrecker but I didn't have any money to pay for it. I had my 5 D cell mag flashlight in the back. I tried to use it to hit the handle on the lug wrench first to break the nuts loose this didn't work. So I removed the batteries and used the long flashlight and place it over the end of the wrench so I could increase the leverage. This worked great and I was able to change my tire and make it home.

Rethinking how a to use the flashlight got the job done and saved me a huge tow truck fee. Money I didn't have at the time anyway. The Flashlight got me out of a tough jam and the flashlight still works just fine to this day. :thumbup:

 

[Hard H2O]

In future, keep a can of WD-40 in your car. Nothing loosens nuts like that stuff. :thumbup:

I used some JB-80 in the laundry room to loosen a corroded screw. On the can it says twice as good and it sure is. Stinks like heck though. The wife is happy that I replaced the leaky faucet. She is a bit more sensitive than I am to the smell and has been Febreezeing the heck out of everything. I think it smells like a job well done.

 

[Buffalohump]

Ha ha.... women! WD-40 smells like perfume to me. Love that stuff

 

[huugh]

Franco

That picture doesn't say ANYTHING - there is no scale - which means you can adjust it to anything you want - e.g. scale can look like this (value for equidistant steps of 1cm) - 0; 10; 12; 12.1; 12.15; 12.158795; 12.158796

 

[Franco G]

Huugh, I think you simply do not understand the picture. The picture is originally from Crucible (CPM). They are professionals.

Don't you see that, e. g., the wear resistance of CPM 10V is about 2 times larger than the wear resistance of CPM M4?

You can scale the way you want but it always stays 2 times larger. Something like 2 miles is larger than 1 mile by a factor of 2. And 20 miles are larger than 10 miles by the same factor of 2.

If your 10V blade stay sharp until you cut 1000 times, a CPM M4 blade (same geometry etc.) would loose an initial sharpness after 500 cuts.

Franco

 

[CaptInsano]

Tell me what is the force being applied? Use whatever units of measurement you wish.

Looks to me like there is quite a bit of force. "Quite a bit" is more than "not so much" and less than "about a ton".

Indeed. I will explain this again. It has been explained several times already, but more repetition may be needed. These tests serve to provide qualitative, comparative data, not quantitative data. Please take as much time as you need to think about this.

 

[BRASMAN]

What I love about Nosses tests is that there is no lab or graphs. Just a man and a knife and very hard use and abuse. That is what I like to see. There is no graph in the mountains, car wreck, lakes, or any other area I may have to use my knife in an emergency. He tests his knives and tells what he honestly thinks not what knife collectors want him to say. Thats what makes his tests so great.

Thanks for all your helpful info Noss. :thumbup:

 

[ryknife]

I don't know how much stronger faster or harder he strikes the knives then i would, but i do know that a failure of this sort makes me hesitant to purchase this knife. Its that simple.

 

[me2]

As a scientific teat I am not convinced as to the validity. As an observational curiosity it is interesting.

I dont recall any claim about a scientific test. There are tests, and once each one is passed, Noss4 moves to the next. They are not scientific, but neither are many of the other knife tests I've read about.

 

[slipfirep40]

Huugh, I think you simply do not understand the picture. The picture is originally from Crucible (CPM). They are professionals.

Don't you see that, e. g., the wear resistance of CPM 10V is about 2 times larger than the wear resistance of CPM M4?

You can scale the way you want but it always stays 2 times larger. Something like 2 miles is larger than 1 mile by a factor of 2. And 20 miles are larger than 10 miles by the same factor of 2.

If your 10V blade stay sharp until you cut 1000 times, a CPM M4 blade (same geometry etc.) would loose an initial sharpness after 500 cuts.

Franco

I think you are missing his point, there is no scale of reference, so there is no way of knowing if that is the whole scale or not. For all we know, that chart could show only the very tip of the data, the differance between the toughness of s7 and 440c could be much less than is implied.

 

[t1mpani]

I think you are missing his point, there is no scale of reference, so there is no way of knowing if that is the whole scale or not. For all we know, that chart could show only the very tip of the data, the differance between the toughness of s7 and 440c could be much less than is implied.

Exactly--there is no "0" at the bottom of the axis to indicate it is where the measurement begins.

 

[HoB]

I think you are missing his point, there is no scale of reference, so there is no way of knowing if that is the whole scale or not. For all we know, that chart could show only the very tip of the data, the differance between the toughness of s7 and 440c could be much less than is implied.

True, but Crucible also offers some numbers with the chart (which I am not too fond of either) though you have to look for them. The longitudinal toughness of 440C is around 25 ft/lbs and that of S7 around 125 ft/lbs (really just rough figures). So the axis of ordinates does indeed start at "zero" at least for the toughness bar.

 

[huugh]

Even if the scale starts with zero, it is not ENOUGH.

Can't you see a difference in these two? Only the scale is different, but the whole interpretation of the otherwise same chart is different...

 

[DaveH]

If you take a moment to review the crucible web site, you'll see the scale is actually more compressed then expanded. For example s30V is rough 4 times more charpy tough then 440c:

http://www.crucibleservice.com/datash/dsS30Vv5.pdf?CFID=1830072&CFTOKEN=44888104

Yet by the graph it seems pretty close.

Which means that the graph is not exgagerated, instead the difference is understated.

If you look at the wear resistance numbers, the porportionatly they are visually very close to what the number are, 145 to 100.

I do not know why you people are arguing about the graph, look on the website! Note though the the graph does not take into consideration heat treating which significantly impacts the numbers for some steels.