Cold Steel's New German 4116 Krupp Steel

i wouldnt get a knife made from 4116 Krupp Stainless. check out nutnfancys review of the cs pocket bushman on youtube and you will see why. He snaps the blade clean in half batoning through a log with a knife cold steel describes as a hard use folder made from 4116 Krupp Stainless.

Tell the whole story, M8. Mister Nut tried to baton through a seasoned 6" hardwood log with a folding knife. He also strikes a large number of lateral blows and dents the blade as he batons through a knot. He further explains that such activity is expected in a 'survival' situation. Give me a break. (Pun intended.)
 
Well I did a little bit of cardboard cutting earlier. I had a very large pizza box that I cut up with a Canadian and a Roach Belly. They both did well, but the Roach is a real cutter, quite a bit better than the Canadian, IMO. It flew through the cardboard with hardly any effort at all. I didn't count the cuts, but I'd say it was probably 50 per blade. Nothing major, but they both still shave easily.

Compared to a Mora Clipper, I'd say the the Canadian is about the same in cutting effort. The Roach took much less effort, I mean, it would zip right through. I almost felt like I was dicing the box up, LOL. I'd hold a piece in my hand and just shaved it into the garbage can.
 
I have had mixed emotions about the various CS Krupp models, but knowing that companies like Henckels and Wustof use this in their economy blades at least gives it a point of reference for comparison.

This thread has been very informative. Thanks guys.
 
Hello all, I'm new to bushcraft, and right now I've restored some old knives though I've got no stamping to tell me with kind of steel it is, is there a way to tell?

Also, with all this 440 stainless, 4416 stainless, 1075 high carbon, carbon, crucible steel, etc with so many numbers and letters how do I find out what is best suited for what? I always thought (when I started out) that the higher number meant a "better" steel but I see this isn't exactly true right away. can anyone enlighten me on how to learn about all these steels and what is best suited for what? Thanks!

-WarriorLeo
 
Hello all, I'm new to bushcraft, and right now I've restored some old knives though I've got no stamping to tell me with kind of steel it is, is there a way to tell?

Also, with all this 440 stainless, 4416 stainless, 1075 high carbon, carbon, crucible steel, etc with so many numbers and letters how do I find out what is best suited for what? I always thought (when I started out) that the higher number meant a "better" steel but I see this isn't exactly true right away. can anyone enlighten me on how to learn about all these steels and what is best suited for what? Thanks!

-WarriorLeo

This would probably be best suited as a standalone thread as opposed to necro-ing a thread that has been dead for 4 1/2 years.
 
VG1 has a higher carbon content than AUS8. About 10% more carbon. Based on its composition, I would expect it to hold an edge on the order of AUS10 or 440C. Those steels are acknowledged to be a step up from AUS8. That's just based on the composition and does not take heat treat into account.

I'm just saying that their statement that VG1 is an improvement over AUS8 is believable. Though I have problems with the rest of it.
Well, while this thread is bumped, VG1 is tougher than VG10, and less prone to chipping. VG1 has nickel added to increase toughness, and VG10 doesn't. VG10 can take a finer edge, and holds it somewhat longer, but is more brittle.

For a fixed blade field knife, I would think that toughness is a "critical area"

VG1 has very good edge retention in its own right though. I would put it on par with a well heat treated 1080 (SK5 equivalent). Not as tough though (que the outer layers of 420j2)
 
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Bought a cheapo just to test this 4116 Krupp Stainless (Kudu). Based on this one knife, wouldn't even consider another of this steel.
 
I hope they are paying their ad writers a pretty penny. Notice how carefully everything is worded.
1) It doesn't actually say that VG1 is better than VG10. They merely say VG1 is best in "the most critical areas". OK if you define "critical areas" just right, it could be correct.

(VG1 actually should be an improvement over AUS8. They are correct about that. Depends on the heat treat, of course.)

2) They are careful not to say WHICH 420 and 440 alloys they tested. The stuff could be better than 420J and 440A and the statement would still be technically correct.

Nothing is absolutely a lie. It is just worded so that it is easy to mis-interpret.

Better be paying those writers the BIG bucks.
I'm a big Cold Steel fan, but I don't buy any of their San Mai 3 or 4116 Krupp blades. Forged 4116 Krupp is great for kitchen knives. It's a terrible steel for outdoor knives. Their SK5 high carbon blades are great, as are their CPM-3V blades. Their AUS-10A folders are good as well. While I don't have one, their AUS-8A fixed blades are pretty good, according to the people that own them. They don't make an AUS-8A fixed blade I'm actually interested in owning. I don't know what they were thinking with the 4116 Krupp outdoor and tactical knives. To anyone paying attention, all those blades are literally half the price they were when they first came out. There's a reason!
 
I'm a big Cold Steel fan, but I don't buy any of their San Mai 3 or 4116 Krupp blades. Forged 4116 Krupp is great for kitchen knives. It's a terrible steel for outdoor knives. Their SK5 high carbon blades are great, as are their CPM-3V blades. Their AUS-10A folders are good as well. While I don't have one, their AUS-8A fixed blades are pretty good, according to the people that own them. They don't make an AUS-8A fixed blade I'm actually interested in owning. I don't know what they were thinking with the 4116 Krupp outdoor and tactical knives. To anyone paying attention, all those blades are literally half the price they were when they first came out. There's a reason!

I think you are 15 years late to the party. Enjoy your CS knives...
 
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