Couple of Questions

JerkeeJoe

JerkeeJoe

Joined
Sep 21, 2005
Messages
495
I'm pretty new to sheathmaking, but have definitely caught the bug. I do however have a couple of questions that hopefully you guys can help me out with. If you want to start a new thread to answer them to make them more visible, that would be great!

First, how do I get my cuts and edges to be cleaner. I was looking at Chuddy Bear's work posted in the leather thread, and the cuts are all so even and perfect. I'd like my work to be like that as well. I'm currently using a combination of scissors and a razor knife and the result is ok, but I find that my cuts are often a little sloppy and or uneven. I use a pattern cut from card stock, but still can't seem to get everything even and correct.

Second, how do you make an inlaid sheath? I've seen some beautiful work and would like to try an inlaid sheath next. A picture tutorial in a new thread would be excellent! (Hint, hint ;))

Third, how many stitches per inch do you guys use? I've been using 5 or 6 and it seems that some here use many more than that per inch. I'm afraid of the stitches pulling through the leather if I stitch so close together.

Fourth, How do you guys finish your sheaths? I typically cut everything out, groove everything, and then either dye it or glue it and then dye it. I've then been using either Tandy semi sheen or sno-seal depending on the sheath, finally, I sew it up. What order do you guys work in, and what products do you use? At what point is it best to slick the edges?

I know this is a lot of questions. I appreciate the help and advice in advance.

-Joe
 
This is exactly what this forum is here for! Thank you JerkeeJoe! :D

As for evening up the sides, two words, sand paper. Several grades will get you started. I start with the roughest grade I can find to work the real uneven stuff out, then progressively use higher grits till I get the leather as even as possible. I now use a disk and belt sander to do the rough work and follow up with fine grade papers. Also to get that nice smooth edge wet the leather first then sand to a nice sheen and then buff with Gum Tragacanth I probably missed something there, I havent finished my morning coffee. :eek:

I'll let the other more knowledgeable leather benders field the rest till I can wake up a little. :p
 
I agree with the sanding process, but even before that, when I know I'm gonna want two or more layered edges to be even when finished, I leave some access edge to one of the layers so I can then trim off that access even with the layer on top/or btm.
Hope that makes sense....I'm starting on a pouch sheath a little later today...think I'll do a bit of a tutorial to show what I'm trying to say:confused:
 
Ok , let's see if we can help out a little.I use a combination scissors, single edge razor blades and X-acto knives. Dwayne is correct about the sandpaper. I am also a knifemaker so I have several belt sanders and use my VS Burr-King for sanding my sheaths. The slow speeed is a dream for leather.For other tight or hard to get to area's regular sandpaper, followed by boning with a little water and a selection of small antler tips.

Inlaid sheaths. I know Paul has a great photo tutorial on this and maybe he will be so kind to put it up. But I will tell you how I do mine. This is where manila folder templates come very handy.Once your sheath design is pretty much figured out, you then need to design your "window" cutout for the inlay keeping in mind that you will need to leave room for another stitch line around the window( unless you run the window close to the outside edge) and any embellishment between the stitch lines.OK on to the leather, you must remember you will have two pieces so you will have to use thinner leathers.Now on smaller knives I like to use about 8 oz leather and about 6oz on folders, so my inlaid sheaths tend to be a tad thicker. For the small fixed blade,I may use some 5-6oz with some 3-4oz top piece.For folders two pieces of 3-4 oz will work.And always use good leather.Lay your template on the backside of your top piece and mark it, then cut it out and clean the edges of the window. At this point I dye the edge of the window so I don't have to dye that close to the skin after its assembled. Then lay the top piece on the bottom piece( I assemble mine with the top grain out on both sides)and mark the opening. Determine if you want to pad the inlay(I usually pad the thinner skins like some of the snakeskins, but not the heavy skins). For padding use the cutout of the window trimmed down a little, thin foam, or some deerskin.Apply some glue to the marked area on the bottom piece and apply your padding or your skin ( inlay should be 1/4"-3/8" larger than the opening). I then glue the top piece to the bottom piece gluing only the inlay side of the sheath( for a pouch style sheath). Layout and stitch your stitchline around your window. At this point a dampen the leather and start folding your sheath overabout 90 dehrees and let dry. Glue the baskside, and trim up edges and assemble as normal. This should be enough to get you started, but you will pickup tricks as you go. Flat sheaths are much easier than pouch style sheaths and I recommend you start there if you can.

I usually use 5 per inch and 6 or 7 on my inlays.

I'll finish the last question when I have some more time ( getting ready for Blade show). Hope this helps some, as it is somewhat simplified but will give you an idea of what you need to do. Good luck. Dave:)
 
Boy I sure hope this doesn't violate the rules here, but the inlay tutorial such as it is , is in another forum and the link below will take you there. I'd move the whole thing over here, but I don't know how to do that.

Edited to add: Ken C. removed the link....thank you Ken, and Dave(DC Knives) brought it over from the "other" forum and it's posted below. Thank you also Dave.

Also most of the tips and how to's I'll give here are done with sewing machines and other equipment a lot of you don't have, so you'll have to adapt your available methods to accomplish the same or as near as possible to the same end result.



Paul
 
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Let's try this.

1. The Hydra arrives

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2. The hydra design and resulting pattern

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3. Patterns transferred to rough cut leather pieces

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4. Welt cut to shape with wedge installed; Sheath body split and inlay windows cut out.

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5. Inlay placed and stitched into sheath body. This inlay is Ostrich Leg

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6. Rough shape sheath with inlays and clip completely installed.


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7. Glue split sheath body pieces back together.
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8. Cut the rough sheath to final shape; Wedge welt is finished here too.

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9. Top stitch lining at the roll

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10. Lining trimmed at roll ready for glue up


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11. Ready to trim installed roll lining around the edges


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12. Decorative tooling layout; beveled and partially stamped; maker's mark and recipient's initials and date made.

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13. Glue in the welt and put JB Weld in the tip. The dark color in the tip is the JB Weld. Note the light colored area around the edge where the deer skin has bee skived back to keep it from showing on the finished edges.


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14. Finish the edges, apply the neatsfoot oil finish, TanKote sealer and the NeatLac and as soon as everything levels out and the true color comes up it's finished. This sheath will be lighter in color tone and no splotches at all. I just rushed this last picture.

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15. The finished product...

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Link to the "other" forum is removed.
 
leatherman said:
This is exactly what this forum is here for! Thank you JerkeeJoe! :D

As for evening up the sides, two words, sand paper. Several grades will get you started. I start with the roughest grade I can find to work the real uneven stuff out, then progressively use higher grits till I get the leather as even as possible. I now use a disk and belt sander to do the rough work and follow up with fine grade papers. Also to get that nice smooth edge wet the leather first then sand to a nice sheen and then buff with Gum Tragacanth I probably missed something there, I havent finished my morning coffee. :eek:

I'll let the other more knowledgeable leather benders field the rest till I can wake up a little. :p
Click to expand...

I've been cutting my leather a little over sized so I can do the sanding with a belt sander then 600 grit by hand. Last time I ordered from Tandy (3 plus years ago) I forgot to order some Gum Tragacanth as Leatherman had recommened :foot:. It's now at the top of my shopping list. Thanks Leatherman :thumbup:

For stitching I normally use 5 per inch but on some sheaths I do the 7 per inch.

Heber
 
What is the proper way to use Gum Tragacanth? Apply after burnishing, before? then burnish some more?? Wait to dry before rubbing on it????
I have some but don't use it cuzz I don't know how!!!
 
Something I've found to work well to burnishing edges is good old bar glycerin saddle soap. This was suggested by another leatherworker and I've found it works well if the edge is dyed then burnished. But it does work well with edgekote.
 
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