Recommendation? DMT F vs DMT EF for general edge maintenance.

J

Juergen23

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Nov 2, 2023
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I'm considering to replace my Fällkniven DC4 with something even lighter for general edge maintenance 'in the field' for my Victorinox SAK's. I can't decide between a Fine (red) and EF (green) DMT. I'm not after a super rough or super polished edge, just a nice working that'll last me through the day. Basically a one-stone solution.

Would I do better with a F or an EF DMT stone? Does the 600 vs 1200 mesh make much difference?
 
My overall preference would likely also be the Fine (600) for a one-hone solution. It'll be aggressive enough to reset a very dull or damaged edge on a SAK blade if you need to, and still fine enough to leave a great working edge all by itself.

But it doesn't hurt to try others as well. I've found anything between XC to EF to be a good working edge finish, depending upon which sort of 'working edge' I might like for the tasks I'll give it. They all finish well with a very light touch, I think better than other brands of plated diamond hones across that wide a grit range (220 - 1200).
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
My overall preference would likely also be the Fine (600) for a one-hone solution. It'll be aggressive enough to reset a very dull or damaged edge on a SAK blade if you need to, and still fine enough to leave a great working edge all by itself.

But it doesn't hurt to try others as well. I've found anything between XC to EF to be a good working edge finish, depending upon which sort of 'working edge' I might like for the tasks I'll give it. They all finish well with a very light touch, I think better than other brands of plated diamond hones across that wide a grit range (220 - 1200).
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I do have a virtually unused coarse DMT pocket stone (blue) laying around but I always figured that would be a little too 'rough' for basic 'field maintenance' on a SAK.

But what you're saying saying is that a coarse DMT would also do as long as a very light touch is maintained to finish? Or am I misunderstanding you?
 
The problem(which isn't necessarily a problem) with using coarse grits is that it tends to form a larger burr and isn't as easy use to remove the burr. A light touch will minimize the chance of creating a new burr while you are trying to deburr. But with good technique just about any good diamond plate should leave you with a very sharp toothy edge because of the way the diamond protrudes in this type of stone.

As to the specific question, I would go with 600 grit just because it should be better for removing material if you need to as well as finishing with a nice practical toothy edge. Seeing as you have a coarse stone already, I would give that a go and see how that performs.
 
Juergen23 said:
I'm considering to replace my Fällkniven DC4 with something even lighter for general edge maintenance 'in the field' for my Victorinox SAK's.
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I suppose you are talking about those DMT mini diamond stones.
I was just looking on the net and looks like they are one sided.
I personally would go for DMT fine/extra fine (#600/#1200) folding diamond sharpener.

PS
I was thinking to add about those mini pocket sharpening stones...
in most cases they are small plates without a handle and I'm not sure if I want to hold such small plate in my hand or between my fingers and sharpen one of my knives.
Then I found this video. Incredible idea. 🤔
 
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For me I carry an extra coarse and coarse folder dmt in my pocket and use it all the time. I don't go higher grit than 325 with the exception of my santoku chopper which I will refine to 1200. I don't sharpen to a bur so getting rid of it is not an issue.
 
I modified my folding sharpener and bought a few 1 milimeter thick diamond plates. At the moment I have #180, #240, #320, #400, #600 and#1200.
I can put 4 diamond plates and a small strop in my sharpener - one plate on each side of the plate holder, two additional plates in one side of the handle and a strop in the other side of the handle.

Bill3152 said:
I don't sharpen to a bur so getting rid of it is not an issue.
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I know about Cliff Stamp "no burr" method but haven't try it yet.
What is your method?
 
I can get my knives apexed keenly enough off the 600 red Fine dmt to shave before stropping if am careful. That would be a good choice for a one stone option
 
I have five of the DMT four inch stones: black, blue, red, green, and tan (220 through 8000). I think the red (600) is probably best for general use, although the green (1200) works great for a quick touch-up. Truth be told, though, after comparing back and forth I'm finding that I prefer my four inch Eze-Lap diamonds in 600 and 1200 grit.
 
I like a lot of real estate for sharpening big kitchen knives, so I went with a 8" x 3" DMT double sided plate with 325 on one side and 600 on the other. Probably covers 95% of my needs.
 
Juergen23 said:
I do have a virtually unused coarse DMT pocket stone (blue) laying around but I always figured that would be a little too 'rough' for basic 'field maintenance' on a SAK.

But what you're saying saying is that a coarse DMT would also do as long as a very light touch is maintained to finish? Or am I misunderstanding you?
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Exactly. With softer, less wear resistant steels like the SAK's especially, a very, very light touch is always best in the finishing strokes, to minimize the heavy burring that otherwise occurs in such steels.

Can also follow the DMT with a very minimal microbevel applied with a medium or fine ceramic, also done with a very light touch. That helps with deburring and also will narrow the apex width atop the toothy finish left by the DMT. That combination makes for a very aggressive-slicing edge on steels like these. It's one of my favorite finishes on these steels.
 
I know about Cliff Stamp "no burr" method but haven't try it yet.
What is your method?
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The first step is to assess the condition of the blade. Visual and thumbnail will indicate when your edge is appexed. Flat spots under light is a good way to figure out edge condition. And since I only use two grits usually it's easy and it's in my pocket.
 
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Bill3152 said:
The first step is to assess the condition of the blade. Visual and thumbnail will indicate when your edge is appexed. Flat spots under light is a good way to figure out edge condition.
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I'm sorry but I don't understand.

Bill3152 said:
And since I only use two grits usually it's easy and it's in my pocket.
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What using "only two grits" has to do with "no burr" method?
 
Look at a blade edge under light. Any light reflecting back indicates a flat or dull spot. Going from 220 to 325 is very easy to do. Most grit progressions are at least double or more.
 
Yes, well, have no idea what are you talking about but newer mind. I have no problem what so ever to remove a burr so I'll just stick to my way of sharpening till I find a good explanation of "no burr" method somewhere. Then I might try it just because I'm curious.
 
Another vote for Fine being more versatile as well as more useful over time.
 
Blues said:
A few seconds on a search engine would solve your laziness problem...
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Laziness? Yes sir, 100%. I'm on vacations at the moment I write this.... no work for me till monday. 😉

But, just to explain.....
a while ago (can't remember exactly when) I found Cliffs 'three step sharpening' video and watched it a few times. As first thing I very much liked his 'one stone' approach and also intrigued with his method to sharpen alternating from both sides till the edge just stopped reflecting light and then he did a micro bevel.
Later I found his explanation somewhere on the net.... the edge is about 15 to 10 microns wide when it stops reflecting light.
I don't know if you remember but not so while ago I mentioned his method somewhere here and most of forum members jumped on me how this is not possible.

Bill3152 used a very smal number of words and english is not my native language so.... let's say these days I'm not in a mood to solve some riddles and if someone is not willing to give me more thorough explanation then so be it.
Anyhow, I thought Bill has some other approach to 'no burr' sharpening.
 
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