Escape rope/ladder suggestions?

sheet bend, I mean, it's right there in the name.
As a person who taught rope work, you want a ladder, not a video tutorial, not a single lesson. I've been off rope for almost five years now. If I had to do an emergency rap, could I do it? probably if it was just me. Could I make sure someone else stayed safe too? getting dicey. It's a very perishable skill, anyone who says otherwise is deluded.
Agree completely that the skills degrade quickly. I have tried thinking of an easy way to remember the bowline. The quickest way to get it right that I have found is to hold the rope in my left hand and pinch it with my right hand, while making a forward twist as if starting my car with a key. That way I know the main loop is going in the right direction. Although, a lot of cars don't come with ignition keys any more.


What about placing a nice thick board across the inside of the door frame? That should hold. You can tie a rope to the center of it and have it ready to go in case of an emergency. You can stash it out of the way somewhere in the meantime, like under the bed or in the closet. You just need to make sure the board is long enough in case it wants to slide from side to side.
I would think that opening the door is not a good idea, unless you are referring to a closet door. Backdraft. Although it is human nature to open the door to attempt escape. Makes you think that there should be a small window on interior doors, with a removable cover, so you can see if there is fire? 🤔
 
What about placing a nice thick board across the inside of the door frame? That should hold. You can tie a rope to the center of it and have it ready to go in case of an emergency. You can stash it out of the way somewhere in the meantime, like under the bed or in the closet. You just need to make sure the board is long enough in case it wants to slide from side to side.
Vector forces and leverage, that board is not holding your weight, the leverage against it is something like 10x your dynamic mass, which is higher than your actual weight. "should" wouldn't be something good enough. The alternate option, a stopper knot pinched between the door jamb and the door is also placing a lot of strain on parts that are not really strong, but most of it is in compression, not flexion (although there would be some in a weak doorframe). There is probably more meat at the window sill than there is at the bedroom door frame in most north American houses. External windows are not usual redone in renovations, but internal walls and interior doors in old buildings are very often held in with spit and hope, especially in rental properties. So unless I could verify a steel door frame (and even then, there is no way to verify if it was bolted down correctly).
The ideal anchor is directly in line with the decent, the next best is a way over built anchor as close to the line of decent as possible, but in an average house the best you would get is the base of a doorframe, which while it would be the strongest, would be the worst angle for the anchor.

Short version, know your structure, don't half ass it, if you are going to end up just falling, you are better off with a short "arm hang and drop" with a "paratrooper landing" than trying to attempt a poorly planned rapelle which more likely leaves you falling on the back of your head (unless you just want to make it less painful, and then in that case, just straight dive out the window and eat pavement like you mean it.) Not to be dark about it, but either you are in a building big enough that the fire stairs are a safe exit, or you are in a small enough building that a straight drop is an injury but survivable. As a joke a buddy and myself figured out how I could rope exit my 8th story apartment, with my wife from a dead sleep, when I did rope work every day, and in that case I stood a chance for a 7-minute exit if I had most of the rig ready at all times. That was a worst case, since the building was concrete, so the walk to the bottom would have been easier, but it was an interesting mental exercise. I could do it, with every advantage. Could I do that today? Hell no. There are buildings that are wood frame that are more than three stories, and in that case, yeah, maybe it's worth having a window exit, but you can get some very solid steel hooks fabricated, and a good folding ladder (hard rungs, rope runners) for a few hundred bucks. Well less than what I've got invested in rope gear, training and time. So if someone was actually facing that as a concern (fun fact more than a couple of suburbs of Calgary are exactly that type of building) You want an exit that tired you, sore you, injured you, your drunk buddy couch surfing, and the other people on your floor freaking out can use, not some hero "lone survivor" bullshit.
It's a fun mental exercise, but as soon as you recognize that you are not a sociopath, you realize that you better be helping your elderly neighbor down the fire stairs or you will have a really hard regret to live with.
 
Vector forces and leverage, that board is not holding your weight, the leverage against it is something like 10x your dynamic mass, which is higher than your actual weight. "should" wouldn't be something good enough. The alternate option, a stopper knot pinched between the door jamb and the door is also placing a lot of strain on parts that are not really strong, but most of it is in compression, not flexion (although there would be some in a weak doorframe). There is probably more meat at the window sill than there is at the bedroom door frame in most north American houses. External windows are not usual redone in renovations, but internal walls and interior doors in old buildings are very often held in with spit and hope, especially in rental properties. So unless I could verify a steel door frame (and even then, there is no way to verify if it was bolted down correctly).
The ideal anchor is directly in line with the decent, the next best is a way over built anchor as close to the line of decent as possible, but in an average house the best you would get is the base of a doorframe, which while it would be the strongest, would be the worst angle for the anchor.

Short version, know your structure, don't half ass it, if you are going to end up just falling, you are better off with a short "arm hang and drop" with a "paratrooper landing" than trying to attempt a poorly planned rapelle which more likely leaves you falling on the back of your head (unless you just want to make it less painful, and then in that case, just straight dive out the window and eat pavement like you mean it.) Not to be dark about it, but either you are in a building big enough that the fire stairs are a safe exit, or you are in a small enough building that a straight drop is an injury but survivable. As a joke a buddy and myself figured out how I could rope exit my 8th story apartment, with my wife from a dead sleep, when I did rope work every day, and in that case I stood a chance for a 7-minute exit if I had most of the rig ready at all times. That was a worst case, since the building was concrete, so the walk to the bottom would have been easier, but it was an interesting mental exercise. I could do it, with every advantage. Could I do that today? Hell no. There are buildings that are wood frame that are more than three stories, and in that case, yeah, maybe it's worth having a window exit, but you can get some very solid steel hooks fabricated, and a good folding ladder (hard rungs, rope runners) for a few hundred bucks. Well less than what I've got invested in rope gear, training and time. So if someone was actually facing that as a concern (fun fact more than a couple of suburbs of Calgary are exactly that type of building) You want an exit that tired you, sore you, injured you, your drunk buddy couch surfing, and the other people on your floor freaking out can use, not some hero "lone survivor" bullshit.
It's a fun mental exercise, but as soon as you recognize that you are not a sociopath, you realize that you better be helping your elderly neighbor down the fire stairs or you will have a really hard regret to live with.
Obviously one doesn’t attempt to rappel unless one knows how to rappel, has appropriate gear, and there are no better options, like walking down the stairs. The problem is, what are your options if you can’t get to the stairs? Or what if you’re too high off the ground to use a commercial escape ladder? Rappelling out a window would almost certainly be awkward and uncomfortable, but probably better than dying of smoke inhalation or being burnt alive. I think if I didn’t trust my wooden door as an anchor, I would consider wrapping my rope under and over a bed so that it cinches down securely. If anyone else were with me, I could lower them out the window and down to the ground using my rappel device (or Munter hitch with 2 carabiners) before rappelling myself. Either that or call 911 and sit tight.
 
Vector forces and leverage, that board is not holding your weight, the leverage against it is something like 10x your dynamic mass, which is higher than your actual weight. "should" wouldn't be something good enough. The alternate option, a stopper knot pinched between the door jamb and the door is also placing a lot of strain on parts that are not really strong, but most of it is in compression, not flexion (although there would be some in a weak doorframe). There is probably more meat at the window sill than there is at the bedroom door frame in most north American houses. External windows are not usual redone in renovations, but internal walls and interior doors in old buildings are very often held in with spit and hope, especially in rental properties. So unless I could verify a steel door frame (and even then, there is no way to verify if it was bolted down correctly).
The ideal anchor is directly in line with the decent, the next best is a way over built anchor as close to the line of decent as possible, but in an average house the best you would get is the base of a doorframe, which while it would be the strongest, would be the worst angle for the anchor.

Short version, know your structure, don't half ass it, if you are going to end up just falling, you are better off with a short "arm hang and drop" with a "paratrooper landing" than trying to attempt a poorly planned rapelle which more likely leaves you falling on the back of your head (unless you just want to make it less painful, and then in that case, just straight dive out the window and eat pavement like you mean it.) Not to be dark about it, but either you are in a building big enough that the fire stairs are a safe exit, or you are in a small enough building that a straight drop is an injury but survivable. As a joke a buddy and myself figured out how I could rope exit my 8th story apartment, with my wife from a dead sleep, when I did rope work every day, and in that case I stood a chance for a 7-minute exit if I had most of the rig ready at all times. That was a worst case, since the building was concrete, so the walk to the bottom would have been easier, but it was an interesting mental exercise. I could do it, with every advantage. Could I do that today? Hell no. There are buildings that are wood frame that are more than three stories, and in that case, yeah, maybe it's worth having a window exit, but you can get some very solid steel hooks fabricated, and a good folding ladder (hard rungs, rope runners) for a few hundred bucks. Well less than what I've got invested in rope gear, training and time. So if someone was actually facing that as a concern (fun fact more than a couple of suburbs of Calgary are exactly that type of building) You want an exit that tired you, sore you, injured you, your drunk buddy couch surfing, and the other people on your floor freaking out can use, not some hero "lone survivor" bullshit.
It's a fun mental exercise, but as soon as you recognize that you are not a sociopath, you realize that you better be helping your elderly neighbor down the fire stairs or you will have a really hard regret to live with.

Okay well that's all very interesting, but if I'm speaking for myself then I'm pretty fit and I weigh relatively little compared to your average out of shape person, so if It's just me then I'll probably be okay. If you insist that I have a plan to save everyone on my floor from a burning building then I think that's a little unreasonable.

If I was in that situation and I needed to get out fast and there aren't any other options, then I think a nice thick board, and we're talking several inches thick, supported by a door frame or a window frame would likely do just fine for me. Alone. By myself. And then I can worry about others.

And if you're too big, well... that's probably your fault. I'll feel bad for you but at the end of the day, you are the one in charge of how much food goes in the big hole at the bottom part of your face.
 
Okay well that's all very interesting, but if I'm speaking for myself then I'm pretty fit and I weigh relatively little compared to your average out of shape person, so if It's just me then I'll probably be okay. If you insist that I have a plan to save everyone on my floor from a burning building then I think that's a little unreasonable.

If I was in that situation and I needed to get out fast, then I think a nice thick board supported by a door frame or a window frame would do just fine for me. Alone. By myself. And then I can worry about others.

And if you're too big, well... that's probably your fault. I'll feel bad for you but at the end of the day, you are the one in charge of how much food goes in the big hole at the bottom part of your face

Okay well that's all very interesting, but if I'm speaking for myself then I'm pretty fit and I weigh relatively little compared to your average out of shape person, so if It's just me then I'll probably be okay. If you insist that I have a plan to save everyone on my floor from a burning building then I think that's a little unreasonable.

If I was in that situation and I needed to get out fast, then I think a nice thick board supported by a door frame or a window frame would do just fine for me. Alone. By myself. And then I can worry about others.

And if you're too big, well... that's probably your fault. I'll feel bad for you but at the end of the day, you are the one in charge of how much food goes in the big hole at the bottom part of your face.
I think a board (or two) would be fine. I have seen people rappel off 4x4 lumber. Assuming it doesn’t get dislodged during the rappel!
 
I think a board (or two) would be fine. I have seen people rappel off 4x4 lumber. Assuming it doesn’t get dislodged during the rappel!

Maybe rappelling is a bad idea. I don't know much about descending on rope, but rappelling involves kicking yourself out away from the face of the wall, right? You might risk causing movement of the board or undue stress on the rope if you do that.

Maybe put on a pair of work gloves. Go down nice and easy.

As for dislodging, that risk would probably be minimized by using a longer board. You could also maybe move a couple pieces of furniture to somewhat hold the board in position. That might stop it from moving too much from side to side.
 
Maybe rappelling is a bad idea. I don't know much about descending on rope, but rappelling involves kicking yourself out away from the face of the wall, right? You might risk causing movement of the board or undue stress on the rope if you do that.

Maybe put on a pair of work gloves. Go down nice and easy.

As for dislodging, that risk would probably be minimized by using a longer board. You could also maybe move a couple pieces of furniture to somewhat hold the board in position. That might stop it from moving too much from side to side.
Definitely leather work gloves (and a harness and rappel device.) I would pad the edge of the window with a rug or at least some towels to avoid abrasion on the rope. If you want to practice sometime, gimme a shout!
 
If you want to practice sometime, gimme a shout!

🤣 I'm good. I don't live in an apartment building these days. I should definitely do some rope climbing though. I read a quote once that went something like "every man should be fit enough to be able to save his own life in an emergency". To me that means being able to lift your own weight up and over things, or just being able to run well. The running part I have down pretty good. If it ever came down to being able to run away from danger, then I've got that covered! ;)
 
Firefighters use a heat resistant cord as a personal escape line in case they need to rappel out of a burning building. Something like the 7.5mm Samson bailout cord, made of technora which is heat resistant to 900 degrees F and rated to 4300 lbs.
 
There is "a board" and then there is the kind of lumber that would hold weight. The size of timber you would need to be safe would be highly variable, more than a dressed frame grade 2x4 in all likelihood. 30mm sched 40 pipe would likely do fine. I've rapped off proper timber frames lots of times, it's not uncommon at all. The main thing is knowing the forces and loadings you are putting onto the anchor. It's not too hard for even a smallish person to put several KN onto a piece of kit just due to how angles and shocks transmit in rigged systems. That's the unpredictable part. The kind of board you can stand on with a door span holding it up might not be enough to handle the added load of climbing down on it, generally we like a safety factor of 10:1, I have no idea what the MBS of an average pine 2x4 is.

As for having a plan for everyone on the floor, look, your risk assessment is not my risk assessment, and if you are happy with "probably be fine" that's your call. As I said, my plan to save my whole floor was done totally as an academic exercise mostly a joke. In just plain text its hard to tell if people are serious, so when it comes to a thing that I know about, that can get someone killed, yeah, I'm a killjoy if it was not already clear. if you want to have a laugh about a bed-sheet rescue, then I'm not stopping you.

Firefighter bailout line is a very different thing, they are planning on being in full turnout gear and the rope is only to slow them enough to not get too hurt when they land, it's a very different sort of last ditch escape. That stuff is amazingly strong, but whatever they tie it to almost certainly isn't, so it's critical for them to be nice and slick going down. Also, rapping on very thin line is it's own challenge. That line could be thinner, I've seen crevasse kits that run 6mm, but I think they compromised for size and ease of use over being as small as possible. So yeah, it's cool stuff, don't let me rain on the parade.
 
Tactical Belts, Duty Belt, Military Belt, Instructor Belt

A belt often advertised as one of these with the Cobra Buckle and a Rappeling ring is what you want for emergency escapes from high places. Add a good synthetic rope for your weight that isn't overkill for the application and add some basic rappeling training.

Once you are down to ground level, the belt will continue to serve you well too!
 
If you read "use reports" on those belts, make sure you match them with pants with a well-stitched crotch. Also, while a cobra buckle is load-rated, and "shouldn't" be unlockable under load, I've got no idea how contaminated that supply chain is, and I know that a cobra is comparable in price to a carabiner, and the fakes are priced closer to a keychain. So can you? yes, and people have done. But your definition of safety vs comfort may be a factor and I know "for me" that when my anchor point is right up under my ribs, it's a pretty miserable experience. That said, I do also choose life when given the option.
 
Don't forget your pets if you have any. I keep a commercial bought escape ladder under my bed for the wife and I. And with it a 5 gallon canvas bag (bucket style) with a rope pre tied to it so we can lower down our four legged family members before climbing out ourselves.
 
If you read "use reports" on those belts, make sure you match them with pants with a well-stitched crotch. Also, while a cobra buckle is load-rated, and "shouldn't" be unlockable under load, I've got no idea how contaminated that supply chain is, and I know that a cobra is comparable in price to a carabiner, and the fakes are priced closer to a keychain. So can you? yes, and people have done. But your definition of safety vs comfort may be a factor and I know "for me" that when my anchor point is right up under my ribs, it's a pretty miserable experience. That said, I do also choose life when given the option.

Fakes are pretty easy to spot. If the maker goes to the effort to use high-quality webbing and thread, why would they use a fake Cobra buckle?

Also, the price is often a clue to inferior quality. If it sounds too good to be true ....

Cobra buckles are load-rated if legitimate. I have never had one unlock under load when I used them. And yes, this assumes appropriate outerwear!
 
The entire climbing gear market is contaminated to the point that warehouse sellers or those who also fulfill other stores' orders have been found to ship fake hardware mixed with real stuff. So yeah, if you know your source, it's all good, but if you've only handled one or two cobras, it might slip past. When it comes to potential safety gear, I always suggest a person go with a very well-trusted source, because you never know. I could well see a smaller custom manufacturer not noticing that of the 20 buckles they bought, one was a fake, so even though the stitching might be good (none of these are going to be CE rated anyway, but you don't need that to be super good enough). So you need to trust that the maker you are buying from is purchasing directly from the manufacturer. I'm not going to pretend I'd always know what I was looking for when it comes to fakes. Folks should know all the risks and evaluate accordingly. This may be a very small problem, or a very big one, I don't know. I've seen lots of fake cobras for sale, I've not handled any. But I also know that while they are not being super explicit about it due to threats of lawsuits, most of the major climbing companies have really encouraged the use of authorized dealers, and most of the climbing YouTubers have been sent really good looking fake products by their fans. So yeah, price and such are often an indicator, just not the only one someone should use.
 
The entire climbing gear market is contaminated to the point that warehouse sellers or those who also fulfill other stores' orders have been found to ship fake hardware mixed with real stuff. So yeah, if you know your source, it's all good, but if you've only handled one or two cobras, it might slip past. When it comes to potential safety gear, I always suggest a person go with a very well-trusted source, because you never know. I could well see a smaller custom manufacturer not noticing that of the 20 buckles they bought, one was a fake, so even though the stitching might be good (none of these are going to be CE rated anyway, but you don't need that to be super good enough). So you need to trust that the maker you are buying from is purchasing directly from the manufacturer. I'm not going to pretend I'd always know what I was looking for when it comes to fakes. Folks should know all the risks and evaluate accordingly. This may be a very small problem, or a very big one, I don't know. I've seen lots of fake cobras for sale, I've not handled any. But I also know that while they are not being super explicit about it due to threats of lawsuits, most of the major climbing companies have really encouraged the use of authorized dealers, and most of the climbing YouTubers have been sent really good looking fake products by their fans. So yeah, price and such are often an indicator, just not the only one someone should use.

Original Cobra buckles are pretty easy to identify if you have ever used one in the past. The fakes I have seen were obviously just that. But yes, safety gear should be purchased from a reputable source.

If you are fooled by fake Rolex watches being sold on a street corner, I would suggest going to your local Fire Fighter Supply to buy items like this.
 
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