Fighters comments please

Robert Hankins

Robert Hankins

Joined
May 19, 2003
Messages
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Here is the latest prototype of my new series of fighters. They will all sport similar handles with different blade configurations.
Handles will be black G10 with 154cm blades and a steel pommel.

At this link is some more pics. PLEASE let me know which handle configuration you like better :D
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3350958#post3350958
Constructive comments on design are welcome, as I said it is a prototype
 

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Dude, don't change a damn thing about that blade shape! :eek:

The only changes I would want, is maybe a different guard or micarta color. This is a winner, IMHO.
 
I definately Like this Fighter.How long is the blade on it? And is it for sale?:cool:
 
I believe this is the second time me and Danbo were in agreement today.He's right. Where is the balance point on this very cool fighter?:thumbup: :cool:
 
Buddy
Has a 6" blade tip to front of guard and is 11 1/8" OAL
Sorry can't sell here not the right forum
Email me if you like. Blinker123(@)qwest.net *delete brackets

Balance point on this one is right at the guard however the ones with a steel pommel will land right where the index finger hits.

BTW this proto is made with 1/4" S5 shock steel, so it is a one of.
 
Blinker said:
Constructive comments on design are welcome, as I said it is a prototype
Click to expand...

Robert...this is a great knife!

Three things I would like to see with it.

1. Take just a tad of length off the ricasso...just a tiny bit.

2. Offer it in carbon and stainless

3. It begs to have a thong hole

This is my favorite knife that I have seen from your shop!
 
That's kickass! I love 154 cm too, the handle looks mighty comfy. The grinds look clean. Nice work....
 
Greg
You are right on the money sir!
Look for those changes on the follow up
I like 5160 for Carbon steel but ^Feel free^ to chime in your favorite :D
Where should the thong hole go?
Top Bottom or Middle???
Liner or not?
 
Robert....can't go wrong with 5160.....O1 would be good too.

I would put the thong hole at the top and line it for a more finished look.

You could gun blue or parkerize the carbon steel models as an option....that'd be cool.
 
Gun Blue maybe, but the Bead blast pics up the temper line which is kinda cool. Although a bead blasted Carbon steel will rust like a banshi in heat:D
without some sort of coating.

Was trying to avoid all the coating nightmares and time spent, that is why I opted for 154cm SS. Figured the time I used and expense of a decent coating like "Gun Kote" Etc it would be a breakeven deal with a decent SS.

Although Carbon give the best edge hands down...have used both many times.
Have heard of using a food/baby safe laquer to coat that will protect the blade and stays put in the microscopic dents left by ceramic beads...which is what I use.
 
Looks pretty good to me. I really like that clip point, -is the false edge sharpened? I like the steel pommel for bashing stuff, and I'd just love to try out a blade made from S5.

If I can find anything I'd personally change, I agree that the choil is one thing. Either make the edge sharpened all the way to the guard, or make the choil just big enough to put a finger in if desired. I'm not sure if you're wanting to make a "blade trapping" choil, but am concerned that they may catch on clothing or other gear. I recently conversed with a soldier who got stabbed twice with a bayonet (in the first Gulf War, I believe), and he made a big deal about how the bayonet's gaurd got caught in his gear or webbing or something. Larry Harley has made a specific point of saying the edge should go all the way to the guard since that is the area that will open the wound once the blade is buried deep and levered around.

What are your thoughts on using the hollow grind vs. a higher flat grind? I figure the flat would offer a bit more support behind the edge for rough use, and be less likely to get jammed in bone, but the wide flat spine area on the saber hollow grind offers more strength overall for prying.

Lastly, I know my opinion on balance does not seem to fit with the conventional wisdom, but I believe if you could reduce some of the weight in the handle, you might be better off. Though it probably won't make much difference with only a 6" blade.
 
That's GORGEOUS... where was it when I was looking for a field knife, pray tell? >.<
 
I absolutely LOVE that knife!! It looks fantastic to me, and totally trips my trigger!!! Oh yeah!!
 
Really a great design. I think it will fit perfectly the form and the function....
Maybe you should add an exposed tang as a skull crusher. To me, the materials used are really ok for that kind of knife.
Anyway, I really like your work, Robert.
 
Thanks for the kind words gentlemen...nice to hear.
The Choil will definetly be smaller but where the blade meets the guard it will stay full width for max strength.
The tang will be around 3/4" wide running the full length of the handle except for the last 1/2" that will be threaded so the Pommel will screw on.
May take it one step further and drill and pin the Pommel thru the threaded portion, in case someone decides they need a Hammer not a knife :D

Kicked around the Thru the pommel idea but I think a flat pommel may be a little more practical.

Can easily sharpen the false edge
May try a double hollow grind version as well
 
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