Finally Placed an Order for Kydex

Guyon said:
- how long you heat the kydex... is there a visual indicator you can use to know when it's ready to form?

- whether you need some kind of gloves to handle the stuff when it's hot (in other words, how hot does it get?)

- how much time you have before it starts to take a set.

I am thinking about a desktop band saw or maybe just a scroll saw for trimming the excess kydex. A jig saw seems clunky, and a coping saw or the like seems like it would be a little awkward. At first though, I may just try to get the kydex close to size and work it down to exact shape with a belt sander.
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I'd like to know the answer to the first one, I use a heat gun and never seem to get the real deep forming.

As to the other two, yes, you need to wear gloves unless you have a high tolerance / enjoyment to burning your fingers. It starts to cool almost immediately, probably within 30 - 40 seconds so press it quickly. I use a Harry Homeowner wood band saw, works great! Just drill, rivet / screw then rough cut on the band saw. Belt grind the edges smooth (remember, it's plastic so it will heat and melt) using sharp belts, clean residue with a scotch brite wheel or the like (I use scotch belts).
 
- how long you heat the kydex... is there a visual indicator you can use to know when it's ready to form?
usually about 5 mins on 400, the sides begin to curl up


- whether you need some kind of gloves to handle the stuff when it's hot (in other words, how hot does it get?)
a good set of leather gloves will work, yes it is hot
- how much time you have before it starts to take a set.
i have had good luck at using 10 mins as a good rule of thumb, i usually drink a beer and then pull out my sheath

some other tips;

tape up blade real well
i use an over sized homemade press, it seems to help
i use the blue sleep mat stuff from wally world
i use a dremel for my rough shaping
i just purchased a small belt sander, i will let you know how that goes when i get back to making some sheaths

hope this helps
 
Stay well away from 400 deg. At that temp and above you get some nasty stuff you don't want to breath.
 
Mike Sastre said:
Stay well away from 400 deg. At that temp and above you get some nasty stuff you don't want to breath.
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I looked up the formulaics and did a few simple calculations.

Mr. Sastre is absolutely correct. Do NOT breathe that crap!! :mad:

400 degrees is just too hot!!
 
i have used 400 in my toaster oven and have had decent results, granted the oven proably isnt totally heated up when i do so so its proably around 300 or so i figure, but none the less effective.
 
madborderman07 said:
i have used 400 in my toaster oven and have had decent results, granted the oven proably isnt totally heated up when i do so so its proably around 300 or so i figure, but none the less effective.
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You'll find the thermometer on your toaster oven ... how do I put this? ... sucks. :D

Regardless, please do this in the open where the winds blow free. And do NOT inhale (think Bill Clinton, very fervently).
 
madborderman07,

If 400 degrees works for you and you are comfortable with it, go ahead on, it's a free country - just don't tell others that it's a good thing to do! How can I put this delicately? POISON GAS!!!!

I've tried to be genuinely helpful around here, so I'm about to do a shameless plug for my DVD set & workbook that Normark reviewd in this thread: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=564222. If you don't want to be exposed to it, go on to the next thread or post (it's a free country) - I won't be insulted. Yeah, it costs money, and I know you're supposed to be able to get everything for free on the internet, but here's the deal: while there IS a lot of good information on it, there is also quite a bit of erroneous and/or incomplete information there as well. If you don't have a good "Ignorance & BS" filter installed on your computer, you can be led down a lot of wrong paths. What I did with the DVD set & workbook was to explain some principles, lay out some guidelines and safety procedures, then walk you through four different projects (tool holster, magazine carrier, knife sheath, and IWB pistol holster) that after completion, should have you pretty well grounded in working with kydex. Also show how to build your own kydex press. It's a blueprint for success. I have yet to have anyone say it was NOT worth the money, and many who have said it was. You can get it from www.TRSDirect.com (559-732-5317), or give me a call or send an email.
 
Mike,

I totally agree. Although I have not (yet) purchased your instructional information, I have pieced together a few sheaths with satisfactory success. However (and that's the key word) I would suggest to anyone starting out who seriously wants to produce a fair number of quality sheaths, BUY THE INFORMATION! While the Internet and Forums have gotten me through a lot of knifemaking and sheath instruction, I have purchased many books, videos, etc. to get "the real deal". The old adage, you get what you pay for. Internet may equal free, but there's a reason so many makers, artists, etc. write books, produce videos, etc. to put out information. Sorry, jumping off my soapbox....
 
Thanks for the warning, guys. I knew already that kydex has a tipping point where it begins to release some noxious fumes.

Mainly, I wondered if there's any visible signal that the kydex is ready to bend BEFORE said fumes are emitted.

In my experimental phase, I'll use my toaster oven outdoors and may even go to the trouble of wearing a respirator.
 
I would definatley use a mask or respirator when grinding and sanding. The dust may not be as bad as asbestos but I don't wanna find out. I have Mikes' videos and they are easy to learn from and very helpful. I have sheaths from Mike as well as others and Mikes are THE BEST. That is the reason I bought his videos and they are well worth the money.
 
I finally formed my first holster. I do not know how to post pictures on this web site, but would like some input as to what I have done. I know this is a blade forum, but it is the only forum I can find that shares information about forming Kydex. I can send individualy emails to anyone that might like to see the pictures of my holster, or tell me how to post these pictures to the web sight.

Any input as to what I have done wrong, or right would be greatly appriciated.
 
rmbrad said:
I finally formed my first holster. I do not know how to post pictures on this web site, but would like some input as to what I have done. I know this is a blade forum, but it is the only forum I can find that shares information about forming Kydex. I can send individualy emails to anyone that might like to see the pictures of my holster, or tell me how to post these pictures to the web sight.

Any input as to what I have done wrong, or right would be greatly appriciated.
Click to expand...

Easiest way is to use some kind of photo hosting site like Photobucket.

Once you have the photo uploaded to Photobucket with a web address associated with the photo, you put the address inside these commands in your post here:


Photobucket will actually provide the entire entry (bracketed commands and address) as a cut and paste.

Another way to produce this same command is to use the insert image icon when you're posting:
insertimage.gif


http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/faq.php?faq=tech_support#faq_faq_tech_support_posting_picture
 
I hope this works. Here are some pictures of my first try at making a Kydex holster.

Rightside.jpg


strongsidecant.jpg


crossdrawcant.jpg


Leftside.jpg


Any comments, suggestions, or ideas are greatly appreciated. This holster is not finished as of yet. I intend to cover the body side with a thin high density foam covered with spandex. I am also working on a "J hook" that will allow this holster to be "tuckable", as well as a way that it can be converted to wear outside the pants, but under the belt.
 
They look pretty good! Might want to use a little more pressure or a little higher heat (not sure what your setup is) to get a more impacted imprint.
 
TekSec said:
I'd like to know the answer to the first one, I use a heat gun and never seem to get the real deep forming.

As to the other two, yes, you need to wear gloves unless you have a high tolerance / enjoyment to burning your fingers. It starts to cool almost immediately, probably within 30 - 40 seconds so press it quickly. I use a Harry Homeowner wood band saw, works great! Just drill, rivet / screw then rough cut on the band saw. Belt grind the edges smooth (remember, it's plastic so it will heat and melt) using sharp belts, clean residue with a scotch brite wheel or the like (I use scotch belts).
Click to expand...

Tecsec:

I was using a heat gun when I formed the first holster. I had the problem of heating a small area, and losing part of the area that I had just formed. I partially fixed this by covering these areas with a wet cloth, and using this wet cloth to form the Kydex.

My wife (who is a shooter) would shoot me in the rear end if I messed up her stove, suggested that I use a cookie sheet, and a silicon baking sheet under the Kydex sheet.

This would let you heat the Kydex in the oven, and then quickly fold the Kydex over your form.

I have not tried this yet, but see the benefits.

I was working with a holster for a Revolver. They have a front sight that requires a channel. They also have a cylinder, and a "recoil shield" that requires some clearance. I don't think that "deep forming" a holster like this would work all that well.

I would not have traveled down this road if I could have baught a decent holster for my firearm that would have been convertable and covered the trigger and hammer so they did not rub my fat roll
 
TecSol:

I just thought about this, and need to applogize:

I am trying to learn the "in's and out's of forming Kydex. You offered input about my first effort, and the email I sent back sounded a little strange. I want to learn how to do this, and did not want to say you were wrong by any streatch of the imagination. I am open to all input.
 
Hey, no offense taken. On small projects (3" - 5" blades) a heat gun works pretty well. What I was saying was that when you look at the trigger guard, cylinder and barrel, you don't seem to have enough pressure or the Kydex isn't quite warm enough to fold around those areas. The biggest issue I've had is getting a uniform plasticity with a heat gun. I'm sure the toaster oven works a lot better for a nice even heating. What I do to get around this is to heat the areas that are most important in retention. In knives, it would the choil / handle area. In a pistol, it would be the trigger guard / cylinder. It really does look great for an early attempt, much better than mine! Good luck!
 
Toaster ovens work well enough, but a regular full sized electric oven works better, if you can use one. More consistent heat and the material isn't as close to the heating elements.
 
TekSec said:
Hey, no offense taken. On small projects (3" - 5" blades) a heat gun works pretty well. What I was saying was that when you look at the trigger guard, cylinder and barrel, you don't seem to have enough pressure or the Kydex isn't quite warm enough to fold around those areas. The biggest issue I've had is getting a uniform plasticity with a heat gun. I'm sure the toaster oven works a lot better for a nice even heating. What I do to get around this is to heat the areas that are most important in retention. In knives, it would the choil / handle area. In a pistol, it would be the trigger guard / cylinder. It really does look great for an early attempt, much better than mine! Good luck!
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TecSec:

Part of this is probably due to my using a piece of PVC pipe the same O.D. as the cylinder, and cut to clear the frame. I did this to form a channel so the cylinder would clear the holster. The holster being made high enough to keep the hammer from rubbing my fat roll, and snagging clothing, the cylinder is actually fairly deep in the holster. The holster does draw with a "snap". and retains the gun when it is turned upside down and shaken. I actually had to put in a spacer for the top screw on the holster so that I could draw the gun. I used a piece of square aluminum tube cut to fit over the front sight to create a sight channel, and a piece of brass bar to create a raised relief in the holster so the heads of the screws where the "J" hook is located would clear the frame and trigger guard.

I used Chicago screws for this project rather then rivets. My thinking was that if the holster became loose with wear, I could line the inside with Silicon Suede leather. The Chicago screws also lets me change the cant of the "J" hook, as well as the design of the hook. My thinking on this is that it would be easier to form one holster, and then experiment with the wear and different hook designs then make a whole new holster every time I want to change the way I carry the gun.

My thinking may be totally off base on all of this, but it is a learning experiance.
 
Mike Sastre said:
Toaster ovens work well enough, but a regular full sized electric oven works better, if you can use one. More consistent heat and the material isn't as close to the heating elements.
Click to expand...

Mike:

What is the best temperature for forming Kydex? I know that you said 400 degrees releases some really bad gas. I have read that you heat the Kydex until the edges start to curl. I have 2 ovens that will let me set the temperature as low as 150 degrees. They are very consistant in maintaining these heat settings. I guess I am asking what the optimum temperature of the Kydex sheet needs to be for forming? What temperature is the Kydex sheet when the edges start to curl?
 
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