During the VN era, there wasn't much out there in the way of lock blade folders. I always carried a Buck which I found on the drop zone after my first jump in-country. I had a village black smith solder a brass lanyard ring on the butt and always had the knife attached to me. Now days there are lots and lots of tactical style folders to choose from. My Buck folding hunter eventually broke at the point where the lever fit into the blade, making me want a better, more foolproof system. The balisong design certainly fits the bill, but I don't like having to go through all those gymnastics to open the blade one-handed. My favorite is the liner lock, which I first ran across on the military issue TL29. (It locked open the screwdriver.) I especially like the designs that are railroad-engineered such as the one from that South African guy (whose name I can't recall) where a portion of the whole frame acts as the lock. Some of the designs out there are too complicated and have too may small parts. Any one have any thoughts on this or seen any clever designs?
Folder Blade Locks
- Thread starter wlf
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LAG3
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I've had experience with both liner locks and the frame-lock on the Sebenza. The frame-lock is, without a doubt, the strongest lock out there. Fewer parts to break, wear out, etc. Besides, it's so thick, you couldn't wear it out in this lifetime
. There are several other makers making frame-locks now, and they all look solid. I did see one that was not though, so I'd try to see/handle one before I bought it. As for liner-locks, my personal experience with a Crawford Point Guard shows it is as good as it gets. It is slightly recessed to avoid the fingers inadvertently moving the lock bar. I think everyone would jump on this design feature, but they haven't. I don't mind sticking my thumbnail in a little way to unlock the blade, as long as I get to keep my precious fingers (you can find posts here of serious injuries if you look around). I'm getting a Crawford Shark for the same feature; the recessed lock-bar. Slashing tests on an industrial cardboard tube showed the Point Guard's lock only got tighter on impact. I really don't trust the thin liners on most of the factory knives. Especially, the knives with G-10 handles and only one liner. Most custom makers use 1/16" Ti stock for the liner which is thick enough IMO. So, if you want durability and a lock you can trust, save your money, don't buy 2 or 3 factory knives for $100 each, and get yourself something in the $300 range. You get what you pay for. Two factory knives I had with very strong locks were the Al Mar SERE 2000 and the Spyderco Chinook. However, both were very heavy (6 oz. and 7 oz.) and rode in the pocket like a boat anchor. Otherwise, I'd only trust a fixed blade. Lots of those to choose from too, especially with the new Kydex/Concealex systems. I hope this helps.
Leo G.
. There are several other makers making frame-locks now, and they all look solid. I did see one that was not though, so I'd try to see/handle one before I bought it. As for liner-locks, my personal experience with a Crawford Point Guard shows it is as good as it gets. It is slightly recessed to avoid the fingers inadvertently moving the lock bar. I think everyone would jump on this design feature, but they haven't. I don't mind sticking my thumbnail in a little way to unlock the blade, as long as I get to keep my precious fingers (you can find posts here of serious injuries if you look around). I'm getting a Crawford Shark for the same feature; the recessed lock-bar. Slashing tests on an industrial cardboard tube showed the Point Guard's lock only got tighter on impact. I really don't trust the thin liners on most of the factory knives. Especially, the knives with G-10 handles and only one liner. Most custom makers use 1/16" Ti stock for the liner which is thick enough IMO. So, if you want durability and a lock you can trust, save your money, don't buy 2 or 3 factory knives for $100 each, and get yourself something in the $300 range. You get what you pay for. Two factory knives I had with very strong locks were the Al Mar SERE 2000 and the Spyderco Chinook. However, both were very heavy (6 oz. and 7 oz.) and rode in the pocket like a boat anchor. Otherwise, I'd only trust a fixed blade. Lots of those to choose from too, especially with the new Kydex/Concealex systems. I hope this helps. Leo G.
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Benchmade's AXIS lock is exceptionally strong and puts up with a great deal of abuse. I carried a BM705 for about a year and a half and flipped it open literally over a thousand times with no ill effects. The lock up is solid and if you keep your (and everyone elses) fingers away from the AXIS mechanism there is vitually no chance of the lock accidentally failing. There are moving parts involved though, and they are very difficult to access to clean / lube. So I could see them being a problem in a long term field situation like you described.
My current knife of choice is the Sebenza. There are more attractive knives out there but I have yet to handle anything as sturdy as a Sebenza. The intregal lock is "fixed blade solid" and, as pointed out, will out last us both.
* The frame is open and easy clean out, it's also easy to disassemble (the tool is included with the knife) for a complete clean /lube.
* One look at the thick Titanium lock bar inspires confidence that no liner lock could.
In terms of sheer rugged durability, I doubt you could beat a Sebenza.
Just my $.02
Brent...
My current knife of choice is the Sebenza. There are more attractive knives out there but I have yet to handle anything as sturdy as a Sebenza. The intregal lock is "fixed blade solid" and, as pointed out, will out last us both.
* The frame is open and easy clean out, it's also easy to disassemble (the tool is included with the knife) for a complete clean /lube.
* One look at the thick Titanium lock bar inspires confidence that no liner lock could.
In terms of sheer rugged durability, I doubt you could beat a Sebenza.
Just my $.02
Brent...
LAG3
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- Aug 21, 2000
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I just have never been satisfied with the quality of Benchmade's products, though I know many people who love them. Ugly as sin IMO. I hate the cheap looking finish they put on their blades. I much prefer the stonewash finish or a true satin. As noted above, the Axis lock can be pretty easily contacted unintentionally. If you like frame-locks, check Darrel Ralph's website. He is doing a new collaboration with Ryan Wilson that looks great. Scott Cook, formerly of Chris Reeve knives, also just posted his new frame-lock folder in the Gallery here on BF. It has an titanium handle, all one piece. I don't have large hands (call me piano-fingers ) but the small Sebenza was just that, too SMALL for me. The handle felt like a little toothpick to me. Not enough meat to get a hold of. Get the large one. Excellent knife. Definitely on my short list of knives to replace (I had one and sold it, like an idiot ; what was I thinking). I tried the small twice. Glad to be of service.
Leo G.
) but the small Sebenza was just that, too SMALL for me. The handle felt like a little toothpick to me. Not enough meat to get a hold of. Get the large one. Excellent knife. Definitely on my short list of knives to replace (I had one and sold it, like an idiot ; what was I thinking). I tried the small twice. Glad to be of service.Leo G.
Thanks to Classified00 too, our posts crossed during transmission. I haven't really looked too hard at the axis lock (not "axil," like I called it), but it seemes to me like it might be a little complex to be bulletproof. The Sebenza models I've seen pictures of have a well designed general purpose style blade. I wish he made one like it that was a little more weapon oriented (or does he?). Leigh
The frame locking folder you are thinking of is the Chris Reeve Sebenza. Frame locks seem to be developing a solid fan base, as rightly they should, it is a very strong lock when put into practice. I can think of only a couple of production companies, and a hand full of custom makers that produce them though.
My personal choice barring legal concerns, is a balisong. Once you have them locked up, it is the closest thing to a folding fixed blade you can find. Fun to open also.
In the same vein, I wish someone would come up with a good version of the antique "reverse balisong". This pattern is most visible in the Marble's safety fish knife. More recently I had high hopes for the updated versions by Cold Steel and Case. The Case Tri-Fold was too small(a bit bigger than my finger when open), and the Cold Steel Triple Action's aluminum handle was'nt up to the toughness standard real life demands. It's a real shame, as the "reverse balisong" pattern has all the attributtes of a balisong without the legal problems.
Right now, My favorite locking mechanism is a well build liner-lock of proper thickness and recessed a bit. This is probably just because I am use to it. The truth is a well fitted locking bar folder would be just as good.
Other locks include the Spyderco compression lock. In my limited handling it would fall some where in between the frame lock, and the liner-lock.
The Benchmade Axis lock and REKAT Rolling Lock have strong followings. These have a bit to much going on mechanically for me. I tend to like my locks as simple as possible.
Last would be the Blackie Collins Bolt Action lock. I liked this lock quite a bit, it is very strong, but I always worried about a bit of my hand sneaking over and unlocking it by accident.
That should cover most of the commonly seen locking mechanishims.
. Frame locks seem to be developing a solid fan base, as rightly they should, it is a very strong lock when put into practice. I can think of only a couple of production companies, and a hand full of custom makers that produce them though.My personal choice barring legal concerns, is a balisong. Once you have them locked up, it is the closest thing to a folding fixed blade you can find. Fun to open also
.In the same vein, I wish someone would come up with a good version of the antique "reverse balisong". This pattern is most visible in the Marble's safety fish knife. More recently I had high hopes for the updated versions by Cold Steel and Case. The Case Tri-Fold was too small(a bit bigger than my finger when open), and the Cold Steel Triple Action's aluminum handle was'nt up to the toughness standard real life demands. It's a real shame, as the "reverse balisong" pattern has all the attributtes of a balisong without the legal problems.
Right now, My favorite locking mechanism is a well build liner-lock of proper thickness and recessed a bit. This is probably just because I am use to it. The truth is a well fitted locking bar folder would be just as good
.Other locks include the Spyderco compression lock. In my limited handling it would fall some where in between the frame lock, and the liner-lock.
The Benchmade Axis lock and REKAT Rolling Lock have strong followings. These have a bit to much going on mechanically for me. I tend to like my locks as simple as possible.
Last would be the Blackie Collins Bolt Action lock. I liked this lock quite a bit, it is very strong, but I always worried about a bit of my hand sneaking over and unlocking it by accident.
That should cover most of the commonly seen locking mechanishims
.
SALTY
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- Mar 19, 2000
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The South African guy, Chris Reeve makes my favorite folder, the Sebenza. As mentioned above the frame lock or integral lock as he calls it is about as good as it gets in the way of simplicity, reliability, servicability and durability. A poor man's Ti handled frame lock is the Benchmade 750. As with many things, you get what you pay for, but it's worth looking at.
I'm no big fan of liner locks. Not only do they have a poor track record, sometimes based upon poor quality knives and sometimes not, but they are too easy to get gunk in between the handle slab and the operating liner. Also, while a well done liner lock is probably OK, they are too easy to do not so well.
I'm no big fan of liner locks. Not only do they have a poor track record, sometimes based upon poor quality knives and sometimes not, but they are too easy to get gunk in between the handle slab and the operating liner. Also, while a well done liner lock is probably OK, they are too easy to do not so well.
Good material. A problem with the basic lever lock design is that gunk sometimes fills the locking notch in the blade, and the lever hook can't fully seat--then it's time for stitches in the ol' fingers. As someone else mentioned, given the choice between "blade stays locked open," and "easy to close one-handed," I'll always take the former. Anyone remember the old Paul design? It featured a large button at the pivot pin--I never have figured out how it worked. Leigh
frame locks are good, darrel ralph makes some good ones, ie the maxx series, and the cuda maxx from cammilus, a good lock back is hard to beat, a good liner lock, too, is hard to beat - ie emerson , a good hard use knife selling linerlocks exclusivly for there folders - the compression lock from spydie is good, but only a few models have it, rolling lock? well we wont go there lol - sure the fixed blade is the ultimate, but they are a lot harder to carry if ya must conceal them imho
axis lock is pretty darned good, one of my favs is my axis afck D2 blade, maybe (?) not the best for tac use, but i'm not sure about that yet..........
sifu
axis lock is pretty darned good, one of my favs is my axis afck D2 blade, maybe (?) not the best for tac use, but i'm not sure about that yet..........
sifu