Glue lines in the welt - can you get rid of them?

Diomedes Industries

Diomedes Industries

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When I make natural sheaths I get two black 'lines' in my welt:

WadeHsSheaths032.jpg


Is this normal, can I get rid of it and retain strength? Any tips?

TF
 
Odd..... are you using the standard contact cement or some other type of adhesive?

I've not had that happen.
 
I don't think it looks bad at all. I'd just leave it the way it is...Your sheaths are awesome, from what I've seen. :thumbup:
 
I think it's the nature of the beast. I personally like the look, but if you don't, you could use an edge coating or dye the edges to match.

Not the best burnishing job here, but I dyed the edge black on this one:

ratsheath14.jpg
 
Talfuchre said:
Standard contact cement. Bought it from Tandy.

TF
Click to expand...

That black line has to come from the cement, as that is the only thing there other than leather. What is the brand name of the contact cement from Tandy? They have screwed around with changed formulas to satisfy EPA regulations and California regulations. I still have some of the older Barge brand and I have not experienced the black line, however I routinely dye all my edges using Feibing's Pro Oil dye in either dark brown or black, and that would be one way you could solve your problem.

Paul
 
I doublechecked - I use the Tandy can - I am using Dap Contact Cement. I remember someone on here recommended it. I don't have a lot left - I will try Barge Cement.

I have one more idea. I usually glue my welt in while the leather is just a tiny bit damp. It helps me keep my wet form. Is that possibly the culprit.

TF
 
TF,

I put in another vote for Barge Cement, as that is what I use and I haven't seen any black lines, even on the sheaths that I don't dye the edges of. One other thing that I can think of is that you may have too much cement between the layers. I've read online about people using too much cement on their leatherwork and it leaves dark lines between the layers.

~Noah
 
Okay - I will experiment with glue as well.

I put a few coats on between layers, but I have been known to over engineer everything. ;)


TF
 
Talfuchre said:
Okay - I will experiment with glue as well.

I put a few coats on between layers, but I have been known to over engineer everything. ;)


TF
Click to expand...

One other thing I forget to mention as it is just routine for me. I have found through experience that most contact cement (in my case Barge) is either too thick to start with or becomes too thick fairly rapidly. I thin my Barge considerably (about the consistency of good thick pancake syrup). This allows the cement to be absorbed more into the leather fibers, which went cured makes for a MUCH stronger bond. I do use two coats with set up time between coats.

Thinner is available at Tandy, or you might be able to use Toulene (from the hardware store in the solvent section). I never have used it but it is one of the ingredients in the older Barge so I bet it would work. Try it at your own risk.

Paul
 
Just thought I would throw this out there, but I use Weldwood Contact Cement from Lowes and I have never had a line like that.
 
I'd try using one coat of thin glue for a start.
Also make sure the layers are pressed together well.

If you glue dry leather, you can (lightly) use a rubber mallet to make sure the layers are adhered well.
 
Everyone - thanks SO much for your thoughts on this one.


Paul, I do that as well, I found in Houston too, the humidity makes it soup in a week. So I routinely add thinner.

I think I have found the culprit. The leather, when a little wet, does not adhere as well, and I think is letting in dust from when I sand the edges, turning it a dark brown. I did as Paul said today (two thin coats with drying in between and I did not see this line today. the leather was also very dry. I like to work it while it is still wet from wet form as it is easier - but I need to let it dry, glue in the welt, and then rewet it and continue.

Chuck just wets the section he is working as he needs to - and I think that is a very good idea to do for me from now on.

TF
 
That's good news. The process of elimination usually works :)
What are you using to thin the contact cement?
 
hey Tal, sheath looks great. Can I ask what size of threat you are using and how many stitch/inch?
Are you drilling or punching your holes?


Thanks
Mike
 
No suggestions on the thinner from me.
I never tried to thin it, but wanted to.
I have access to gallons of Rubber Cement Thinner and think it would work but am leery about mixing chemicals...
I'll check out the Tandy site.

I've also used 2 coat rubber cement.
Seems to work OK.
One uses it the same as contact cement, coat both sides & allow it to dry. Then stick together.
I wonder how similar the two are, Contact & Rubber Cements.
 
Contact Cement is many many times stronger than rubber cement.

Like Wade I use Weldwood, never had to thin it though, a quart will last me a couple of months.
 
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