GS Limbuwan Knife for 4/11

Yangdu

Himalayan Imports Owner ~ himimp@aol.com
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Beautifully done 17 inch 16 ounce cross between Gelbu Special and Limbuwan by Anil. Sisau wood handle. Leather sheath. Lite and super fast Knife for your collection at $139. *SOLD*

Email to himimp@aol.com to order
First come first served

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My oh my! That really is light. Love to hold that one for a few minutes. Has to be sweet.
 
Looks like this little beauty join me in the near future.

It's been a while since I've bought a HI blade and I'm happy to have another! Many thanks to Yangdu and the talented craftsmen that make these!
 
So it just arrived today and I thought I'd give a short review. I like to read about what people think of their blades to help my own decision making, so I'll do my part.

I won't bury the result at the bottom: this is a beautiful blade and Anil did a fantastic job! I could not be more pleased to have a piece of his work in my growing collection. If something like this comes up again, I would encourage anyone to jump on it. Now onto the details:

Note: all measurements are taken the same way HI does: from blade tip to the rear of the handle.

The blade length is exactly as described and as mentioned by Bawanna, it is very light in the hand. I'd say it's "whippy" compared to the other two I have but still keeps that front end biased weight expected from a Khukuri. I have never held a Sirupate or Chitlange so I'm sorry I can't make a comparison to that family. The only other blades I own (for now) are a 15" villager model and a 16.5" Ang Khola. The spine measures about 0.23" [5.8mm] at the thickest which makes it by far the lightest Khukuri I have (especially compared to the Ang Khola), despite being the longest. That said, I did do a side by side comparison on a pine branch (~ 4" [101.6mm] diameter) I cut down last week and it bites plenty deep and can make chips fly without much effort and holds its own with the others. The sheath was well made as always, as are the Karda and Chakmak. I have never actually used either of those even from my other blade so I'm sorry I can't give much more word on them than that (I'd rather say I don't know, than try to make something up). The blade does fit tighter in the sheath than my Ang Khola but it's also out of the box and I don't mind how either of them fit in the slightest. It's not like they're going to slide right on out anyway.

And that's it for an out of box review. I finally had some fun money to spend after quite a while and getting another HI blade is certainly money well spent. Many thanks to Yangdu and Anil.
 
Excellent review Bill. I still find it amazing it's that light. Got me pining for one just like it.
 
Definitely a fast one and with the Gelbu edge i bet it will end up being a great camper knife or all around utilitarian blade. Thx for the review. Well done and grats!
 
Definitely a fast one and with the Gelbu edge i bet it will end up being a great camper knife or all around utilitarian blade. Thx for the review. Well done and grats!
Well, there's an update on that. I was doing some tree branch cleanup/processing and the green wood didn't stand a chance, even the thicker pieces (about 4in diameter like the previous quick review). I did however manage to ripple the edge on some dry wood (pine, about 2-3in diameter) as I took this out for another test. That being said; I can't say it will take the role as my "all arounder". The bevel isn't hollow but it is fairly acute and with its lightness feels like a fighter or a light vegetation blade where most would just brush it aside.

I did manage to repair the edge with the chakmak and a butcher's steel so all is well. I am in no way upset that it happened. It will handle what my Ang Khola and even the villager model (which has been my faithful workhorse) in some cases, cannot handle.
 
Please understand that Kukris are differentially tempered which means some parts of the edge are tempered softer and some parts are harder. This is done to protect vulnerable parts of the blade that would otherwise chip. It is better to roll or bend an edge than to chip because you cannot put that metal back but you can if it simply bends or rolls. The working part of the blade (belly) is hardened more than the rest of the blade like the tip and the re-curved part. One could imaging the tip always getting dinged up on rocks and things just under the soil when chopping plants etc. That way you can repair the tip instead of constantly filing the metal away eventually deforming the blade sometimes beyond usefullnes. The recurved part is not used for chopping but shaving so if you are using the recurve for chopping then expect it to get some rolls especially on dry wood. You can typically chop green wood any way you want but its the hardwoods and dry heartwoods that will roll edges on the soft parts of the Kukri. Just be aware of the hard tempered and soft tempered parts of the edge and you will be fine and likely not even have to do repairs. Hope this helps. There are great posts here in the forum that illustrate this you might want to check out. Im headed out to the swamp in a few hours or id point you there now.
 
Please understand that Kukris are differentially tempered which means some parts of the edge are tempered softer and some parts are harder. This is done to protect vulnerable parts of the blade that would otherwise chip. It is better to roll or bend an edge than to chip because you cannot put that metal back but you can if it simply bends or rolls. The working part of the blade (belly) is hardened more than the rest of the blade like the tip and the re-curved part. One could imaging the tip always getting dinged up on rocks and things just under the soil when chopping plants etc. That way you can repair the tip instead of constantly filing the metal away eventually deforming the blade sometimes beyond usefullnes. The recurved part is not used for chopping but shaving so if you are using the recurve for chopping then expect it to get some rolls especially on dry wood. You can typically chop green wood any way you want but its the hardwoods and dry heartwoods that will roll edges on the soft parts of the Kukri. Just be aware of the hard tempered and soft tempered parts of the edge and you will be fine and likely not even have to do repairs. Hope this helps. There are great posts here in the forum that illustrate this you might want to check out. Im headed out to the swamp in a few hours or id point you there now.
Don't get me wrong, I'm happy it rolled instead of chipped. I will note that the damage is on the belly of the blade. Heat treat is very important for any blade but edge geometry matters in a big way for the work intended. I'll cut to the chase and say that with this edge geometry, the fact that it was such a small ripple is a mark of the maker's skill. At the time, I was chopping with it to see how it stacked up with my villager and my 0.45" thick Ang Khola. I sincerely hope no one reads my review and thinks this is a blade or maker to avoid.

Remember also that the material thickness is also thinner (not by a ton) than many other Khukuri I have seen and certainly more than the other two I own. The edge on this blade is very acute and appears to have a very slight hollow grind. Looking at the website, I think that is the Gelbu influence in this blade so it is exactly as it was intended to be. I only wish I knew what a Limbuwan was.

All I can say personally, is that I will not be treating this like my villager (or the Ang Khola) which is still my all-around that I have used and abused for several years now. It will however fill a roll no other blade, even machete that I have owned could do, especially at its length. I would also recommend it to anyone who might want a "fighter" model. The weight, the thickness, the edge is all wonderful.

Again, much credit and many thanks to Anil and Yangdu for this blade.
 
My understanding was that the Gelbu model usually has an edge geometry similar to an AK, but I never checked personally, just saw others say that. Anyway, this was posted as a hybrid model, and from the picture it looks like it has a thin edge.
 
My understanding was that the Gelbu model usually has an edge geometry similar to an AK, but I never checked personally, just saw others say that. Anyway, this was posted as a hybrid model, and from the picture it looks like it has a thin edge.
Ah, then maybe I have it backwards. I don't have a Gelbu or a Limbuwan so I can't speak to it accurately. At any rate, this was more of a learning experience for me.
 
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