Help me design a "Bushcraft" knife - [CONTEST]
- Thread starter Daniel Koster
- Start date
As I said in a previous thread (What's next), simple:
A carbon steel K-tusk with a 4.5" blade. Scandi grind maybe. Micarta or G10 handle and maybe a little coating or blued blade.
Drop point blade, lanyard hole. I would be happy with that.
AND it's based on one of your own design.
A carbon steel K-tusk with a 4.5" blade. Scandi grind maybe. Micarta or G10 handle and maybe a little coating or blued blade.
Drop point blade, lanyard hole. I would be happy with that.
AND it's based on one of your own design.
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What more to add? My preferences:
-4-inch blade of substantial thickness. It should be able to pry if it needs to without any concern.
-Handle is extremely important. It should be very comfortable in virtually any position. I don't know much about handle ergonomics, but you do! So, just make sure that the operative term is VERSATILE. This knife should be your best and only friend out there, so it should be able to do as many tasks well as it possibly can. It's obvious, but it's imperative.
-Offer in both synthetic and wood handles--people like different stuff. I love desert ironwood, but just a wide selection would be good. I love knives with pretty handles.
-If it wouldn't adversely affect handle ergonomics, a nice lanyard loop/hammer at the end of the tang would be good. Pounding is sometimes very helpful out there.
-I know there will be dispute over this part, but I would like it to be a full convex grind, from the spine to the edge. One smooth curve. I have only a couple knives like that, since few make them, and I'm hooked. Their feel during cutting is generally exceptional.
-You should offer both stainless and carbon steel. I'm torn on this one--I prefer a good carbon steel any day of the week, but especially in wet climates or canoe trip, or just in general, rust can be a really big and annoying issue. Whatever you do, try to find the best steel you can in each category, in terms of versatility, ruggedness, edge retention, and overall strength.
-The sheath should be versatile, as well. I don't like Kydex very much (always scratches the finish), so I'd probably advocate leather. But whatever you do, put lots of lashin holes, loops, and any other attachment method you can conceive. I'm always a little annoyed when I have to wear the knife in a certain spot (which is normally where my backpack's hipbelt goes). Just give the sheath as many attachment options as you possibly can. Did I mention versatility?
-Remember that the tip is important, and I don't think Tanto is good in this application. A Bushcraft knife needs to be able to drill, do fine work, and also pry. Trying to find the best blend between pointy (spear, I guess) and strong (crowbar, I guess) is always tricky, but I guess vision in decisions like that is what makes a great knifemaker.
Well, I'm not sure what else to add. Make it stunningly beautiful, stunningly versatile, and stunningly rugged and strong. You'll know what to do.
Thanks for asking for our input, Dan! Good stuff, and I can't wait to see what happens here!
Chris
-4-inch blade of substantial thickness. It should be able to pry if it needs to without any concern.
-Handle is extremely important. It should be very comfortable in virtually any position. I don't know much about handle ergonomics, but you do! So, just make sure that the operative term is VERSATILE. This knife should be your best and only friend out there, so it should be able to do as many tasks well as it possibly can. It's obvious, but it's imperative.
-Offer in both synthetic and wood handles--people like different stuff. I love desert ironwood, but just a wide selection would be good. I love knives with pretty handles.
-If it wouldn't adversely affect handle ergonomics, a nice lanyard loop/hammer at the end of the tang would be good. Pounding is sometimes very helpful out there.
-I know there will be dispute over this part, but I would like it to be a full convex grind, from the spine to the edge. One smooth curve. I have only a couple knives like that, since few make them, and I'm hooked. Their feel during cutting is generally exceptional.
-You should offer both stainless and carbon steel. I'm torn on this one--I prefer a good carbon steel any day of the week, but especially in wet climates or canoe trip, or just in general, rust can be a really big and annoying issue. Whatever you do, try to find the best steel you can in each category, in terms of versatility, ruggedness, edge retention, and overall strength.
-The sheath should be versatile, as well. I don't like Kydex very much (always scratches the finish), so I'd probably advocate leather. But whatever you do, put lots of lashin holes, loops, and any other attachment method you can conceive. I'm always a little annoyed when I have to wear the knife in a certain spot (which is normally where my backpack's hipbelt goes). Just give the sheath as many attachment options as you possibly can. Did I mention versatility?
-Remember that the tip is important, and I don't think Tanto is good in this application. A Bushcraft knife needs to be able to drill, do fine work, and also pry. Trying to find the best blend between pointy (spear, I guess) and strong (crowbar, I guess) is always tricky, but I guess vision in decisions like that is what makes a great knifemaker.
Well, I'm not sure what else to add. Make it stunningly beautiful, stunningly versatile, and stunningly rugged and strong. You'll know what to do.
Thanks for asking for our input, Dan! Good stuff, and I can't wait to see what happens here!
Chris
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Dan, a couple months ago I modded a Becker Campanion, no longer in production. This knife has a straight spine, large handle. It's full tang made from thick stock.
I like this knife because of the strong belly to the blade, but it also has a straight spine which makes batoning easier, IMO.
I think a knife with the same general dimensions, but in somewhat thinner stock would be a great bushcraft knife. The steel should be a quality high carbon, pretty tough but easily sharpened.
Here is a pic of the one I modded -
I changed the handle because it was way too big and bulky. I definitely like the blade shape because I think it allows the user to use the point for drilling, and it puts the point in a straight line with the handle so more force can be brought to bear.
One thing I would change about the general design is, the end of the tang is not free standing so that it can be hammered on if the user wishes. Scales that come right to the end of the tang could be damaged or dislodged, so a 1/4" or so of bare tang would be a good thing.
Thanks!
Andy
I like this knife because of the strong belly to the blade, but it also has a straight spine which makes batoning easier, IMO.
I think a knife with the same general dimensions, but in somewhat thinner stock would be a great bushcraft knife. The steel should be a quality high carbon, pretty tough but easily sharpened.
Here is a pic of the one I modded -
I changed the handle because it was way too big and bulky. I definitely like the blade shape because I think it allows the user to use the point for drilling, and it puts the point in a straight line with the handle so more force can be brought to bear.
One thing I would change about the general design is, the end of the tang is not free standing so that it can be hammered on if the user wishes. Scales that come right to the end of the tang could be damaged or dislodged, so a 1/4" or so of bare tang would be a good thing.
Thanks!
Andy
Spear point, symmetrical 3.5 inch blade, 1' edge on back of blade so that it could be used as a spearhead if necessary. Depressions or grindings on the handle for lashings for a spear.
Other thoughts: a pocket in the sheath for a flint, with another for some very light kindling fuzz, cross-hatchings on the unsharpened portion of the back of blade to provide for fire-making.
Traditional influence: Skean dhu, functional rather than flashy, handle of either bog oak or blackthorn.
Other thoughts: a pocket in the sheath for a flint, with another for some very light kindling fuzz, cross-hatchings on the unsharpened portion of the back of blade to provide for fire-making.
Traditional influence: Skean dhu, functional rather than flashy, handle of either bog oak or blackthorn.
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A 3.75 inch blade that has a slight drop point. 0-1 works great at high hardnesses, as I'm sure you know. A scandi grind on a 3/32 (the perfect thickness) blade would make the edge rediculously sharp.
With all your other designs, keeping the handle traditional might be nice. As in very minimal guard with a wide butt end to choke up on. Fully contoured scales (dipping around the pins) with a slight exposed tang for a fire steel.
Looking back, Myakka's design is what came into my head.
Thanks for the chance!
With all your other designs, keeping the handle traditional might be nice. As in very minimal guard with a wide butt end to choke up on. Fully contoured scales (dipping around the pins) with a slight exposed tang for a fire steel.
Looking back, Myakka's design is what came into my head.
Thanks for the chance!
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Great thread and topic. I would suggest using some kind of stain resistant steel that is relatively easily sharpened (CPM154, S30v) along with the following knife/sheath attributes:
- 1/8" thickness
- thumb notches on the spine, with the rest left pretty square for scraping or using a fire steel
- 4.5" blade
- very comfortable handle of linen micarta, rounded everywhere the way you do on most of your knives. Matte finish for some grippiness.
- Spear point blade
- Scandi edge
- Kydex sheath with drain hole, minimal width for easy pocket carry too. Thumb push off point for one-hand draw. Dangler type belt loop.
- 1/8" thickness
- thumb notches on the spine, with the rest left pretty square for scraping or using a fire steel
- 4.5" blade
- very comfortable handle of linen micarta, rounded everywhere the way you do on most of your knives. Matte finish for some grippiness.
- Spear point blade
- Scandi edge
- Kydex sheath with drain hole, minimal width for easy pocket carry too. Thumb push off point for one-hand draw. Dangler type belt loop.
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5/32" A2 or CPM3V steel.
4" long blade, 1" wide/ 4"ish handle ( I would like a wooden handle to keep it traditional looking, maybe Desert Ironwood but I would not turn one down in Natural Micarta to match the Nessie you made me ! )
The point of the blade should be central to the knife body and one of your convex grinds would be practical.No choil but a shaped handle to prevent the hand slipping down the blade would be good similar shape to a Bob Dozier Wilderness knife!!!
The Knife should have a full tang and should protrude slightly out the back of the handle slabs so that it can be hammered into wood if required !
The sheath should be a leather tube style that can be worn around the neck,if a fire steel could be incorperated that would be cool !!!!
4" long blade, 1" wide/ 4"ish handle ( I would like a wooden handle to keep it traditional looking, maybe Desert Ironwood but I would not turn one down in Natural Micarta to match the Nessie you made me ! )
The point of the blade should be central to the knife body and one of your convex grinds would be practical.No choil but a shaped handle to prevent the hand slipping down the blade would be good similar shape to a Bob Dozier Wilderness knife!!!
The Knife should have a full tang and should protrude slightly out the back of the handle slabs so that it can be hammered into wood if required !
The sheath should be a leather tube style that can be worn around the neck,if a fire steel could be incorperated that would be cool !!!!
mymindisamob
Platinum Member
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Yep, that's my baby. We need to see that happen no matter what!:thumbup:
Blade:
Drop Point
1.5-2" wide
Stainless steel. I know that carbon steel is stronger, but it's a bushcraft knife right? The steel should be prepared for the worst.
4" without choil
4.5" with choil- PREFERABLE!!! But there are those who don't like choils on their knives . . .
1/8" thick blade. I know that some will say make it thick enough to pry with, and to each their own, but my primary concern with a knife is that it cuts well. If I really need something to pry with, I live in a forest, and there are PLENTY of prying implements lying around. I think that 1/8" is just about perfect for bushcraft (maybe even thinner).
Scandi, or Zero edge
NO recurve on the blade. Make it as easy to sharpen as possible.
Handle:
While I appreciate full tangs, I personally don't care for them too much. Don't get me wrong, I'm not going to throw away my ST-Ripper or Game Warden over the full tang, but my hidden or partial tang knives have always felt more comfortable.
Either a full length hidden tang, or a full length tang which is ONLY exposed on the back side of the knife.
Micarta would be a safe choice, but wood is just so pretty . . . I'd go with some bulletproof wood (teak?).
I'd put an index finger groove on it too. Generally I prefer grooves for all of my fingers, but being a bushcraft knife, I'd stick with just a single index finger groove.
I'd put a pommel and a finger guard on the handle made of steel or brass . . .
I'd make the pommel strong enough to hammer with (don't let the pommel add too much lengh to the handle though), and make the finger guard just large enough to keep your hand from slipping if you hammer with the pommel, or to keep a gloved hand from wandering off the handle onto the blade.
Oh yeah, the knife MUST be usable with bare AND gloved hands.
Sheath:
Leather or Kydex sheath.
Leather is better looking, but I've never worried about putting my Kydex away wet . . .
That being said, I still prefer leather.
The biggest problem I have with kydex is when they aren't made right, so the blade cuts into the kydex. I hate that.
For leather or kydex, I'd put a loop somewhere on the sheath that will fit a Ferro rod AND/OR an EZE-Lap Diamond Knife sharpener.
If you go with leather:
I'd put a good fastening/retention system on it. I really enjoy pouch sheaths, but I trust a strap a lot more.
Finally, it would be nice if the belt loop was rigged so you could take the knife off without removing your belt.
Whenever I'm hunting I have to throw my knives into the pack because the belt loop is stitched closed. It's either cut the strap on my bag, or toss the knife into my pack.
I've been toying around with a belt loop with a length of leather stitched to the end of it with a buckle on it.
You could run the belt loop through your belt, run the leather around the front of the sheath and buckle it up front (kind-of like some old-west style pistol sheaths).
I think that's about it . . .
Drop Point
1.5-2" wide
Stainless steel. I know that carbon steel is stronger, but it's a bushcraft knife right? The steel should be prepared for the worst.
4" without choil
4.5" with choil- PREFERABLE!!! But there are those who don't like choils on their knives . . .
1/8" thick blade. I know that some will say make it thick enough to pry with, and to each their own, but my primary concern with a knife is that it cuts well. If I really need something to pry with, I live in a forest, and there are PLENTY of prying implements lying around. I think that 1/8" is just about perfect for bushcraft (maybe even thinner).
Scandi, or Zero edge
NO recurve on the blade. Make it as easy to sharpen as possible.
Handle:
While I appreciate full tangs, I personally don't care for them too much. Don't get me wrong, I'm not going to throw away my ST-Ripper or Game Warden over the full tang, but my hidden or partial tang knives have always felt more comfortable.
Either a full length hidden tang, or a full length tang which is ONLY exposed on the back side of the knife.
Micarta would be a safe choice, but wood is just so pretty . . . I'd go with some bulletproof wood (teak?).
I'd put an index finger groove on it too. Generally I prefer grooves for all of my fingers, but being a bushcraft knife, I'd stick with just a single index finger groove.
I'd put a pommel and a finger guard on the handle made of steel or brass . . .
I'd make the pommel strong enough to hammer with (don't let the pommel add too much lengh to the handle though), and make the finger guard just large enough to keep your hand from slipping if you hammer with the pommel, or to keep a gloved hand from wandering off the handle onto the blade.
Oh yeah, the knife MUST be usable with bare AND gloved hands.
Sheath:
Leather or Kydex sheath.
Leather is better looking, but I've never worried about putting my Kydex away wet . . .
That being said, I still prefer leather.
The biggest problem I have with kydex is when they aren't made right, so the blade cuts into the kydex. I hate that.
For leather or kydex, I'd put a loop somewhere on the sheath that will fit a Ferro rod AND/OR an EZE-Lap Diamond Knife sharpener.
If you go with leather:
I'd put a good fastening/retention system on it. I really enjoy pouch sheaths, but I trust a strap a lot more.
Finally, it would be nice if the belt loop was rigged so you could take the knife off without removing your belt.
Whenever I'm hunting I have to throw my knives into the pack because the belt loop is stitched closed. It's either cut the strap on my bag, or toss the knife into my pack.
I've been toying around with a belt loop with a length of leather stitched to the end of it with a buckle on it.
You could run the belt loop through your belt, run the leather around the front of the sheath and buckle it up front (kind-of like some old-west style pistol sheaths).
I think that's about it . . .
I would like a full tang knife with a 5" blade and spear point for the first two inches. The working side would continue to a short double guard, rounded with center cut holes. of a good stainless steel. The opposite side would blend to a squared back spine with not overly sharp edges. The working side would be a moderate convex edge while the two inch opposite would be a more durable less acute convex edge , about 35 - 40 %. An attached pummel of app. 3/4 inch, with a slight curvature for pressing hides or light hammering would cap a G10 or micarta grip, cross textured, not too deep. The pommel would have a decent hole for tang attachment, if needed. My choice for blade steel would be D2. My choice for a sheath would be nylon covered kydex with suitable drain holes and belt loops or metal clip and bottom hole for lashing to leg or webbing.
Jim Kitchens
jlkitch@bellsouth.net
Jim Kitchens
jlkitch@bellsouth.net
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- Dec 13, 2003
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- 289
4.25 inch spear point blade. 1/8 inch thick.
4.25 inch oval handle.
full tang.
scandi grind, no choil, no guard, the edge should run the full length of the blade.
01 tool steel.
micarta or wood handle should be users choice.
leather drop pouch sheath with firesteel loop. pouch on sheath for sharpening stone / tinder material charcloth etc.....
4.25 inch oval handle.
full tang.
scandi grind, no choil, no guard, the edge should run the full length of the blade.
01 tool steel.
micarta or wood handle should be users choice.
leather drop pouch sheath with firesteel loop. pouch on sheath for sharpening stone / tinder material charcloth etc.....
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- Jan 22, 2004
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Ok, here is my idea for the Koster Bushcraft blade. Here are the specs,
Overall Length: 9.5 Inches
Blade Length: 5 Inches
Blade Steel: 5160
Hardness: 58rc
Blade Thickness: 3/16 Inch
Weight: 7 Ounces
Grind: Full Convex
This blade would be a drop point design with a full convex grind in 3/16 thick 5160. The tip would be nice and pointy for digging and whittling but kept thick enough for batoning if need be. This would keep the blade plenty strong for almost any task. The ramp at the top of the blade is used for striking a firesteel and would be notched. The handle could be made from either natural materials or micarta and would be full tang with three pins and a lanyard hole. Here is my concept pic,
Overall Length: 9.5 Inches
Blade Length: 5 Inches
Blade Steel: 5160
Hardness: 58rc
Blade Thickness: 3/16 Inch
Weight: 7 Ounces
Grind: Full Convex
This blade would be a drop point design with a full convex grind in 3/16 thick 5160. The tip would be nice and pointy for digging and whittling but kept thick enough for batoning if need be. This would keep the blade plenty strong for almost any task. The ramp at the top of the blade is used for striking a firesteel and would be notched. The handle could be made from either natural materials or micarta and would be full tang with three pins and a lanyard hole. Here is my concept pic,
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Wow! some great suggestions here. I think the general consensus points to a full tang 4 - 4.5" blade spearpoint. I prefer a full height convex grind. I also take a page from knives madde by Helle for the handle. At first they feel too big bit after extended use I really appreciate the size and shape. Give the handle some contouring with good palm swell, a nice flattened hemisphrical butt and a bit of slimming between the small intergral guard (bottom only) and the swell, and between the swell and the butt. A definite birds beak but not too pronounced at the back end for "choking down". Thanks for the opportunity. Do you want my address now?
mymindisamob
Platinum Member
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I am thinking something along these lines.
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Well I guess I'm beating a dead horse at this point, but my vote is for spearpoint, full tang, 3-4 inch blade length, carbon steel, lanyard hole, leather sheath with firesteel. Sounds like many knives out there, so I guess the hard part will be putting your identity in it and making it a bit different.
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- Aug 19, 2005
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the laminated micarta with an integrated handle. and a nice super steel. so sharpen the field would not be necessary. Possibly also a nice lanyard for field use an extra grip. I also think the sheets should be light weight the whole thing should be almost unnoticeable. I would also like a nice thumb ramp.
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- Jul 3, 2007
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- 334
Lots of great ideas already posted here...
My input is:
+/- 4" spearpoint blade, relatively thin, flat ground convex edge
generous, squarish handle, similar to a chefs knife, so it is comfy in many holds...no finger grooves, etc.
small guard
add a bottle opener on the blade to serve as a pot lifter.
Basically I think a bushcraft knife need to do two things well, food prep and whittling/ light wood working well
design variation:
drop the point (into a modded sheepsfoot) and add a flat tip for digging:
catholes on the trail
bait, etc.
My input is:
+/- 4" spearpoint blade, relatively thin, flat ground convex edge
generous, squarish handle, similar to a chefs knife, so it is comfy in many holds...no finger grooves, etc.
small guard
add a bottle opener on the blade to serve as a pot lifter.
Basically I think a bushcraft knife need to do two things well, food prep and whittling/ light wood working well
design variation:
drop the point (into a modded sheepsfoot) and add a flat tip for digging:
catholes on the trail
bait, etc.
Hi I am pitdog's nephew in the UK, I don't own any fix blades yet and this is my first post !
My ideal Bushcraft knife would be similar to the Kephart style of knife.
It would have a 4" blade and a 4 1/2" handle. I'd like to be a little different and have a Sambar Stag handle. The blade I would like made of S30V and to be 5/32" thick with a mirror finish and one of your great Convex grinds !!!
The sheath would have to be a traditional looking Mountain Man style sheath made from leather.
If possible I would also like it to have some file-work on the top of the blade near the handle to stop my thumb slipping!
My ideal Bushcraft knife would be similar to the Kephart style of knife.
It would have a 4" blade and a 4 1/2" handle. I'd like to be a little different and have a Sambar Stag handle. The blade I would like made of S30V and to be 5/32" thick with a mirror finish and one of your great Convex grinds !!!
The sheath would have to be a traditional looking Mountain Man style sheath made from leather.
If possible I would also like it to have some file-work on the top of the blade near the handle to stop my thumb slipping!