help...

Joined
Nov 3, 2000
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140
After 5 hours of hacksawing and filing, I finally got my knife cut out from ATS34 stock. I have Loveless/Barney's book on knife-making, but it really doesn't answer my question. My design changed a bit, but I need to know how I will work the file in order to get the shape of both edges and line in the middle of the blade. Do I file the bottom edge completely then work on the top? File one side (top and bottom) then work on the other? Do I taper file towards the tip of the blade then work on the edges?

Thanks in advance.

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[This message has been edited by exsanguinate (edited 11-21-2000).]
 
Sorry, posted in wrong forum (too early in the AM). Please don't respond on this post. If you want to respond, go to the "shop talk" forum and respond. thnx
 
The first blade I made was using a file too! you should scribe a line down the center of the thickness of the blade. You can do this by grinding the end of a file into a V shape with the Vlining up somewhat where the center of the thickness of your material is. Then you just have to lay your blank beside the V portion of your file and drag the blank along the V, scratching a line into the edge portion. Flip the blank over and do this again and you'll end up with 2 parallel lines that indicate where center is. If you have a drill press you can take an old engine valve (ask a garage for one) and grind a burr along the disc portion using a sharpening sone, your file or sand paper, and chuck the valve into the press. Place your blank on a block of wood and raise it up to where the burr of your valve would be roughly in line with the center of the edge of your blank. turn on your drill press and drag the blank along the rotating valve and you'll scribe a line. Flip it over and repeat.
Whatever you do, scribe some center line on your edge. Since your blade is a double edge one, you'll have to scribe a center line on thetop and bottom of your blank.

If I were you, I'd file the main edge portion first. With the edge of your file, file in vertical lines every 1/2 to 3/4" appart going from the edge up. These shouldn't go all the way up your blank at all. The point is to file these lines so that at the edge they are deep enough to reach your scribed center line and then they should get less and less deep as you go up. the point of these lines is so that as you are filing away, yoi'll notice the gouges you filed disappearing going from the upper portion of your blade and finally disappearing at the edge. Once you have done this you have filed your edge in a nice flat V and right to your edge center line. Do the same on both sides at the same time. That is, mark your depth gouges on both sides and file on one side for a while, flip, file, flip, file, have a Pepsi, flip, file, etc. Constantly flipping allows you to keep an eye on the evenness off your filing. This is important for you especially since you are shooting for a double edged blade. if none of this makes sense, shoot me an e-mail and I'll try to scan you a pic and send it to you today. Constantly look at your work and check it over or your double edged blade could quickly become a single edged, flat ground blade as your edge creeps up and up and up!

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"Come What May..."
 
Get a drill bit thats the same diameter as the thickness of your material. ie. 1/8" bit for 1/8" stock steel. A brad point bit would work best for this even though its not good for drilling metal. Lay your blade blank down on something flat. A drill press table or sander platen works well but anyhitng flat will do. Then lay the drill bit flat and use it to scribe a line along the edge of the blade blank. It should leave a line right down the center of blank. that gives a center to work towards for the cutting edge. If your going to have a double edge like you pictured, you should do that on the spine also.
Then either scribe or mark a line where you want your grinds to meet. ( line where false edge bevel and cutting edge bevel meet) Measure it so its even on both sides.
Start filing! It will take awhile but thats to your advantage in some ways. Try and get you cutting edge bevels right first on both sides. Then work on your bevels for your false edge. Because their steeper, you can kind of use them to cover up any small mistakes in your edge bevels and use them to even things up. It may slightly change the shape of the spine but that is less of a problem than changing the shape of the cutting edge. You can always file the false edge of and still have a knife if things go horribly wrong
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. But I doubt you'll have much trouble.
Good luck. I like the pattern you chose.

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I may not be the sharpest knife in the drawer... but I've got the sharpest knife in the room.
 
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