Horn Handle repair

J

Jon

Joined
Nov 8, 1998
Messages
276
Could anyone describe any easy way to fix cracks in the horn handle of a khuk? I have both a blem AK & BAS with cracks starting to appear in the handles. It's probably from lack of humidity - I live in WNY & the windows are closed and the heater is running at this time of year

Also, what is the best way to prevent this happening in the future? These are both khuks that were bought with repaired handles already but if I was to get a "collector khuk" I'd be upset with cracks in the handle.

Would buying wood handle khuks be a good alternative?

I'm a newbie to khukuris but I've seen a wealth of experience on various Khukuri topics here. Both of these khukuris are "users" and I'm sure my Spyderco Sharpmaker & Tuff Cloth will take care of most of the blade needs, but I'd appreciate any advice on the horn handles.

TIA.
 
Hi Jon:

Epoxy is the best fix. Try to get something other than the quick dry -- 2 hours or 6 even. Work the epoxy into the cracks and let it set for 24 hours. Sand it to contour.

Wood handles are subject to cracking in low humidity, too. I live in Reno where summers are 10% humidity or less and it is a problem for me.

I use boiled linseed oil on wood handles and a lanolin based hoof treatment lotion on the horn handles. It helps.

There are experts who know a lot more than me who will be around to help. Stay tuned.

------------------
Uncle Bill
Himalayan Imports Website
Khukuri FAQ

 
Apply non-gel super glue at first signs of a crack and buff off the top layer when dry. The regular stuff finds it's way into the smallest incipient cracks and fills them.

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How many roads must a man walk down before he admits that he's lost?
 
I've repaired cracks in handles and (years ago, when I still had some to repair...) gunstocks by filling the crack with cyanoacrylate glue and then pressing in sawdust (for choice, sawdust from the same piece as I'm repairing, taken from an area that's not externally visible) Once the glue's fully dried and cured and sanded, the join is invisible and as strong or stronger than the surrounding material; I've never had a crack repaired this way open up again. If you're careful, this technique is ideal for bone, horn and antler. For larger cracks, of course, you just splice in a small piece of the material and sand it flush.
 
If you are dealing with hairline cracks superglue should be sufficient. It flows easily and penetrates the crack.

Epoxies are difficult to work into the cracks. I have used a syringe and needle to force the glue into fairly small cracks but it can be quite messy. I have not been able to force epoxy into some hair line cracks with a syringe. Also, as Bill mentioned choosing a longer setting epoxy is essential. It is surprising how short 5 minutes is.

JB kwik weld is the only 5 minute epoxy I would recommend for handle repairs. The main reason is that it does not seem to stick to fingers. Working the epoxy in with the fingers is much faster than pins or needles. Like eating, getting the fingers in makes things go faster. This is also a very strong epoxy.

Wood handles will crack also. Epoxy will work on wood handles as well.

Will

 
I've found that warming the epoxy mixture a little will thin it a bit & make it easier to work with. I mix up a small batch in a clear disposable cup & warm it with my wife's hairdryer. (BTW, I picked up this tip from a RJ Martin thread on epoxy impregnated cord wraps.)

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Cheers,

--+Brian+--

aka Dagda the Insatiable, Member of the Terrible Ironic HORDE
"I may be goin' to hell in a bucket, Babe, but at least I'm enjoyin' the ride."
 
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