How do I learn the art of sharpening?

TrickyVic

TrickyVic

Joined
Nov 22, 2007
Messages
478
Hello ladies and gents, any help is greatly appreciated. Right now I only have a sharpmaker, with it I can sharpen some of my blades to a pretty decent edge. Some of my blades I can't sharpen worth a damn.
So what other system do you guy suggest? I've heard ceramic or diamond stones mentioned, but I know nothing about them. Can you folks suggest an online store for them? How about any books that might help me?
I will mostly be sharpening S30v, D2, ZDP, and 154cm.

Thanks, Vic
 
How? By practice.

If you want to learn the science of sharpening, go with a system.

If you want to learn the art of sharpening, freehand is the way to go.
 
Obviously you can't be good at something unless you practice. Thanks for the advice.
 
For all those hard steels you really need some diamonds, they make life much easier. A very good diamond sharpener is the DMT magna-guide, it uses the DMT diafold sharpeners that can be had in a wide range of grits. It can also be used in more than one way, the clamp with benchstones, the system as a whole or the diafolds freehand. It would be good to put nice, sharp and thin bevels on you blades then you could use the sharpmaker for quick touchups. It will also improve you sharpening skill because it shows you the proper way to move the knife across the stone and will improve you muscle memory when not using the system. Don't know of any good books (learned the hard way) but I'm sure someone else will have a link.
 
Awesome! Thank you knifenut1013, I'll definately be researching the DMT. I know the sharpmaker is great for touch-up, but I've gotten a few blades that were dull and just can't seem to bring the edge back with it. I don't mind learning the hard way, it's how I've learned most of what I know.
 
The DMT product will put a edge on almost anything and do it in record time. Here would be the setup to go with,
http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_detail.html?s=DMTDMGEF
http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_detail.html?s=DMTfwcx
http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_detail.html?s=DMTFWEEE
You end up with two xfine stones but its about the only way to do it to get the xxfine stone and yes its very worth it to have.

You might want to get the UF rods for the sharpmaker too, you can keep a edge sharp for a very long time with just those stones. One last thing pick up a good strop and some compound for that scary sharp finish.

If you do get one and have questions let me know, I can tell you a few mod's to make it better too.
 
I have a strop from Mr2blue purchased here and use Fromm stroping dressing, is that a good stroping set-up?
I viewed a couple of vids on the DMT and it seems like a pretty good system.
 
knifenut1013 said:
For all those hard steels you really need some diamonds, they make life much easier. [endQUOTE]

Dimonds are for rings and ceramic, get an Edge Pro or Wicked Edge and keep your Sharp Maker around for touch ups.

that's it for assisted sharpeners, there may be other assisted sharpeners out there but I think bar none Edge Pro sharpeners are USA made and Ben Dale is a really helpful guy. I guess Edge Pro has diamond stones as well, so that's always an option if you want it.

for free hand, there are so many worth mentioning everything from ridiculously expensive Japanese water stones to real stone and synthetic stones, enough diamond stones out there too that can get the job done right
Click to expand...
 
Skimo said:
knifenut1013 said:
For all those hard steels you really need some diamonds, they make life much easier. [endQUOTE]

Dimonds are for rings and ceramic, get an Edge Pro or Wicked Edge and keep your Sharp Maker around for touch ups.

that's it for assisted sharpeners, there may be other assisted sharpeners out there but I think bar none Edge Pro sharpeners are USA made and Ben Dale is a really helpful guy. I guess Edge Pro has diamond stones as well, so that's always an option if you want it.

for free hand, there are so many worth mentioning everything from ridiculously expensive Japanese water stones to real stone and synthetic stones, enough diamond stones out there too that can get the job done right
Click to expand...


:confused::confused::confused:

If you ever used a DMT aligner you might just think you got ripped off with the other stuff.
Click to expand...
 
TrickyVic, you might also check out the thread about "Keeping an Angle", should you opt for any non-guide based systems and want to try freehand. If you can get a knack for sharpening by intuition, you'll have a great variety of equipment options available, and won't be stuck with the limitations of some guided systems.
 
C.S. Graves said:
TrickyVic, you might also check out the thread about "Keeping an Angle", should you opt for any non-guide based systems and want to try freehand. If you can get a knack for sharpening by intuition, you'll have a great variety of equipment options available, and won't be stuck with the limitations of some guided systems.
Click to expand...

What thread is that? How about a link?

A Google search "Keeping an Angle" site:bladeforums.com yields three. I don't think any of them are what you are referring to as they aren't much use as tutorials.

So far I like this one the best.
 
Skimo said:
Dimonds are for rings and ceramic, get an Edge Pro or Wicked Edge and keep your Sharp Maker around for touch ups.

that's it for assisted sharpeners, there may be other assisted sharpeners out there but I think bar none Edge Pro sharpeners are USA made and Ben Dale is a really helpful guy. I guess Edge Pro has diamond stones as well, so that's always an option if you want it.

for free hand, there are so many worth mentioning everything from ridiculously expensive Japanese water stones to real stone and synthetic stones, enough diamond stones out there too that can get the job done right
Click to expand...

While Edge Pro is the most precise manual sharpening system out there, they are not the fastest nor the most durable because they use silicon carbide and aluminum oxide stones instead of diamond. Diamond is the hardest natural substance, and at the same grit it will outrun and outlast carbides. When you intend to reprofile, experienced Edge Pro users will tell you to get one more coarse stone right away because it doesn't seem to last very long.

I've heard rumors saying that Edge Pro is gonna sell diamond stones, but so far I only see one "super fine" diamond stone on their website.

If only Edge Pro collaborates with DMT, we would have a perfect sharpening system. Since they don't, I'm sticking with DMT.
 
Last edited:
gary jp4 said:
What thread is that? How about a link?

A Google search "Keeping an Angle" site:bladeforums.com yields three. I don't think any of them are what you are referring to as they aren't much use as tutorials.
Click to expand...

Whoops, thought I could get away with being lazy, as the thread I referred to was among the more recent threads in this section, but here goes:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=659644

Not a full tutorial, certainly, but tips on several methods.
 
Sep said:
While Edge Pro is the most precise manual sharpening system out there, they are not the fastest nor the most durable because they use silicon carbide and aluminum oxide stones instead of diamond. Diamond is the hardest natural substance, and at the same grit it will outrun and outlast carbides. When you intend to reprofile, experienced Edge Pro users will tell you to get one more coarse stone right away because it doesn't seem to last very long.

I've heard rumors saying that Edge Pro is gonna sell diamond stones, but so far I only see one "super fine" diamond stone on their website.

If only Edge Pro collaborates with DMT, we would have a perfect sharpening system. Since they don't, I'm sticking with DMT.
Click to expand...

The Edge Pro is faster then the little gizmos even with with diamond stones like the guided DMT setup because of the length of the stroke on the EP and the amount of pressure you apply with the coarse stone. The only competition in a guided system in speed might be when using full size DMT's with the guide on the bench and a D8XX plate.

The 120# EP stone is very fast IMO. Quite a bit faster then my D8X free hand when re-profiling, but not as fast as a D8XX which is also quit a bit faster then any of the DMT's with the little guided rods. However, the scratches from the 120# water stone are much finer then a D8XX leaves (or even the D8X for that matter).

I don't think you are going to see EP offer coarser diamond stones. Ben Dale tried diamond stones with the EP a while back, but had the diamonds strip out of the nickle plating that holds them in and ruin the plates in short order. Probably do to using excessive force but he stopped offering them. The fine ones are for sharpening ceramic blades and he doesn't recommend diamond plates for steel with the EP. If you want to use DMT plates on the EP you could mount your own or call him and talk about it. Maybe you could sell him on it. He is very responsive and good about answering questions on the phone. Ben Dale at EP 541-387-2222.

It is true that diamond plates don't dish and last a long time, but the diamonds do wear, break, and more importantly come out of the relatively soft nickle platting that holds them in and eventually this leaves the plate useless so they have a life they just don't require the maintenance of a water stone. The wear of a water stone keeps fresh grit exposed and unclogged so the grit is consistent. Diamonds change as they wear. They need a break in to knock off the hi flyers (if you care) when new and then get finer and slower as they wear. For those that like to work the scratches out with small steps in grit this can be an issue.

Dishing of the 120# stone for me has been more of an issue after reprofiling a lot of knives. I would say after 10 - 20 or so knives I would lap and flatten the stone. They last a lot longer then they would free hand because the EP has a little plate that you adjust to be even with the edge of the stone that lets you slide on and off the stone with each stroke allowing you to use the full length of the stone with each stroke and not wearing the center as quickly. Also, remember you only use the 120# stone for reprofiling or some other really heavy stuff.

I like to have two of the 120# stone around so I don't have to stop and lap if I decide the stone is to dished. I haven't worn on out yet though.

Gary
 
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