Thanks Mark. I wouldn't recommend my technique to anyone....it's soooooo slow! Hahaha. You can flip through my Instagram page for an informal WIP of how they come together but basically it's like this:
After I come up with a design I cut the template pieces out of manilla folders. When designing the sheath and the size and shape of the pieces it is wise to plan how it will be stitched to assure that you have access to stitching all parts later. Transfer the templates to the leather and cut out the pieces carefully. This is important because if one piece is even a little bit bigger or smaller than the other the stitch grooves will be different lengths and you will end up with mismatched holes. Cut out the front, back, welt and belt loop. In cases like this big bowie, the welt is comprised of three pieces. My sheaths are tapered towards the tip and towards the cutting edge for a very nice fit. So, I build in extra pieces to add thickness along the spine side near the guard while skiving material towards the tip and on the edge side.
I use cheap Tandy tools because that's what I can afford. I run a stitch groove around the front and back pieces then mark the stitch spacing with the overstitch wheel. I make very sure that there are exactly the same number of holes along each line, front and back. I count every single hole at least once. I do the same with the belt loop piece. I use a stitch spacing that fits most of the distances that will be covered. I like the smaller spacing. It is a lot more work but it has a refined look that I prefer. I use a stitching needle chucked up in the spinning drill press to punch the holes with a pine board as a backer.
Next, I tack glue the center welt piece in position behind the front panel. Using the front piece as a template I punch the holes through the center welt piece then remove it. Then I add the additional welt piece on one side of the welt and using the holes already in the welt, punch through the new piece. With that done i add the additional piece on the other side and again punch the holes all the way through.
Now I do a test fit up. Using dressmakers t-pins, I push a pin though every 5th or 10th hole and see if there are any discrepancies. If all is good, I move on to knocking the corners off the pieces with an edger and dying the pieces. Then I burnish those edges. When that is done, I glue the welt in place behind the front panel, using the t-pins to align the matching holes
Before the pieces come together I need to stitch the belt loop piece to the back panel. I glue the piece in place then stitch. With that done it's time to add the snap piece to front panel. I use a 5/8" Forstner bit in my drill press to relieve the material to a depth sufficient to bury the snap and to allow a piece of pigskin lining leather to cover the hole. Set the snap in place and cover the hole.
About this time the pieces are ready to come together. Here is where the earlier careful work pays off. Again, using the pins at given intervals I stage the pieces on the pins, in position but not touching. This ensures that when the pieces come together the holes match up making stitching much easier. The pieces are carefully brought together and set with a rubber mallet.
Saddle stitch it all together. Because I punch the holes through and don't drill them, I need to use an awl to reopen the holes as I go stitching. With stitching done, go over the stitches with the overstitch wheel to tamp down and even out the stitches. Next, I use a smooth faced hammer to go over the stitches which flattens the raised leather edges along the stitch grooves. Now the sheath edges are sanded smooth and flat on the disc and belt sander. Pay close attention to the distances around between the edge and the stitch line. You want that to be consistent all the way around. With that done, I use an edger to knock the corners off. Then I hand sand the edges with 220X, 400X and 600X sandpaper giving a gentle radius to the edge. Dye and burnish the edge.
Here I do another test fit to see how the blade fits in the sheath. If the fit is good, it is time to add the snap button to the strap. With the knife in the sheath I pull the strap tightly across the guard to the snap piece set in the front panel. With a little finger pressure I cause a slight mark on the underside of the strap where the snap position will be. Measure for the center of the strap width and punch the hole for the snap button. Set the snap button. I leave extra material on the strap length until this point. Now is when I trim it to length and refinish the edge. Weatherproof the sheath with the product of your choice. I use Montana Pitch Blend. I might have missed a step or two but that's basically it for how I do it.
