Just got a Leatherman Signal and need help.

A

Aquatic_PJ

Joined
May 20, 2023
Messages
4
I just scratched it by trying to sharpen it with its sharpener. It’s just one side do I try to remove scratches and if not how do I properly sharpen.. I feel like an idiot
 
Remove sctatches/re-polish the blade with a Dremel polishing wheel and red or green rouge?
Give the blade a mat finish with wet 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper? (Sand in one direction, spine to edge.) The blade may get scratched during use. A mat finish will hide the scratches. A mat finish also eliminates the fingerprint and smudge magnet aspect of polished blades.
(Personally, I detest fingerprint and smudge magnets.)

IMHO the only reason for polished blades is if you are going to use the blade(s) as a signaling device.
To be honest, a small pocket mirror makes more sense for that purpose.
I'm sure pocket mirrors don't help much for shaving (not that I have ever tried to use one for such nonsense. 🙄) ... or the Ms. applying her "war paint" ... or applying your camo war paint when/if you go after deer with archery, or turkey hunting. 😇

Only thing I can suggest for sharpening is raise the spine a bit more so the blade flats barely clear the stone/steel. I raise the spine about 1/8 inch from the stone/steel. (I like a keen edge of 10 degrees (give er take a degree) per side.)

I don't know what LM includes with the Signal for sharpening. (I have the Charge+ TTI. Nothing was included for sharpening.)
I will guess some sort of small ceramic or diamond coated butcher's steel like Victorinox includes with some of the SAK's, and offers as an accessory?

Depending on how loaded your pockets are, and how often you have to sharpen, a pocket size Arkansas Stone or Diamond Sharpener might be an option. You can use your belt, boot shank(s)/tops without adding a polishing or diamond compound as a strop.
Dry stropping will fix any rolled edge, and remove any wire edge left by the stone.

If you use a back pack, loading a full size (non metal removing) Butcher's Steel along with a pocket stone (or stones) might be an option.
I keep a pocket stone/"400 grit" Smith's diamond plate, and full size (non metal removing) butcher's steel in my backpack.
 
afishhunter said:
Remove sctatches/re-polish the blade with a Dremel polishing wheel and red or green rouge?
Give the blade a mat finish with wet 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper? (Sand in one direction, spine to edge.) The blade may get scratched during use. A mat finish will hide the scratches. A mat finish also eliminates the fingerprint and smudge magnet aspect of polished blades.
(Personally, I detest fingerprint and smudge magnets.)

IMHO the only reason for polished blades is if you are going to use the blade(s) as a signaling device.
To be honest, a small pocket mirror makes more sense for that purpose.
I'm sure pocket mirrors don't help much for shaving (not that I have ever tried to use one for such nonsense. 🙄) ... or the Ms. applying her "war paint" ... or applying your camo war paint when/if you go after deer with archery, or turkey hunting. 😇

Only thing I can suggest for sharpening is raise the spine a bit more so the blade flats barely clear the stone/steel. I raise the spine about 1/8 inch from the stone/steel. (I like a keen edge of 10 degrees (give er take a degree) per side.)

I don't know what LM includes with the Signal for sharpening. (I have the Charge+ TTI. Nothing was included for sharpening.)
I will guess some sort of small ceramic or diamond coated butcher's steel like Victorinox includes with some of the SAK's, and offers as an accessory?

Depending on how loaded your pockets are, and how often you have to sharpen, a pocket size Arkansas Stone or Diamond Sharpener might be an option. You can use your belt, boot shank(s)/tops without adding a polishing or diamond compound as a strop.
Dry stropping will fix any rolled edge, and remove any wire edge left by the stone.

If you use a back pack, loading a full size (non metal removing) Butcher's Steel along with a pocket stone (or stones) might be an option.
I keep a pocket stone/"400 grit" Smith's diamond plate, and full size (non metal removing) butcher's steel in my backpack.
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Hi! So should I just leave the scratches they are facing down from the top of the blade like a line. It’s also just one side?
 
The sharpener included on the Signal is, in my personal opinon, for emergency field use when you can't find a flat rock. Expect scratches when you use it. Blades get scratched. The only way to prevent it is to leave it in its box. Now that you have the first one out of the way, you can use it without fear of it getting scratched.
 
yablanowitz said:
The sharpener included on the Signal is, in my personal opinon, for emergency field use when you can't find a flat rock. Expect scratches when you use it. Blades get scratched. The only way to prevent it is to leave it in its box. Now that you have the first one out of the way, you can use it without fear of it getting scratched.
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Thanks so much for this and I agree with you! But for future reference how often do I need to sharpen it and what type of sharpener do I use?
 
Sharpen it when it gets dull, use whatever you use for other knives. The Spyderco SharpMaker works well for a lot of people, and the learning curve isn't very steep. I was already proficient before it was invented, so I only use it for serrated blades. Everything else I do freehand, mostly on DMT Diafold diamond hones. Leatherman runs their steel rather soft, so it is pretty easy to sharpen. Frankly, I use the knife blade on a multitool so seldom that I only sharpen my Wave once every year or two.
 
If you really want to get out the scratches, then... make more scratches. :p

That's how sanding and polishing works. You start with a coarse grit sandpaper and slowly step your way up to the finer grits, and then finish it off with a metal polish. Each time you switch to a finer grit, you focus on replacing the previous scratches with a finer scratch pattern than you had before. That's all there is to it. You just get a finer and finer scratch pattern until you can hardly see the scratches anymore.

I learned this method from watching youtube videos. I've only done it a few times and I'm not great at it, but I'm at least good enough so that when I'm done, you can't really tell that there was anything done to it unless you're looking closely. It doesn't take much but a bit of time and patience. I think my lack of patience is probably what is holding me back from doing a really great job...

After you're done, you'll probably want to sharpen the knife again because it can get a little dulled when you're sanding the side of the blade. You'll want to avoid rubbing the edge when you're sanding, but it inevitably gets dulled anyway. That's been my experience, at least.

Of course you'll need a lot of different grits of sandpaper. I bought a pack of wet dry sandpaper online. I don't remember what it cost me, but I think it was pretty cheap and I still have a ton of it even though I do use it pretty regularly for various things.
 
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yablanowitz said:
Sharpen it when it gets dull, use whatever you use for other knives. The Spyderco SharpMaker works well for a lot of people, and the learning curve isn't very steep. I was already proficient before it was invented, so I only use it for serrated blades. Everything else I do freehand, mostly on DMT Diafold diamond hones. Leatherman runs their steel rather soft, so it is pretty easy to sharpen. Frankly, I use the knife blade on a multitool so seldom that I only sharpen my Wave once every year or two.
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Lastly, I scratched by sharpening it with the Dimond coated do you think I messed up the blade?
 
Aquatic_PJ said:
Lastly, I scratched by sharpening it with the Dimond coated do you think I messed up the blade?
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You most certainly didn't ruin your blade with a few scratches. Like everyone else has said, if you use the blade even a little bit you're going to put some in it anyway. Just keep it sharp and "drive it like you stole it". It's a tool after all. Ever go into a mechanic's shop and look at their accumulation of expensive tools? Well cared for doesn't have to equal pristine on something you use all the time.
 
Define "messed up." I have hundreds of knives, and nothing that I've carried and used at all is without scratches on the blade(s). I don't consider that "messed up". Sharpened on a grinder and discolored at the tip is "messed up". Buffed until all the corners are rounded is "messed up". Used to stir a fire until the steel changes colors is "messed up". Scratched during sharpening is life.
 
Aquatic_PJ said:
I just scratched it by trying to sharpen it with its sharpener. It’s just one side do I try to remove scratches and if not how do I properly sharpen.. I feel like an idiot
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How to avoid scratches on a LM tool (or any other tool): keep the mint condition new or like-new tool in a drawer and buy a used pre-scratched tool of the same model for EDC. The Surge on my belt gets used (not abused) every day, but the minty black oxide Surge that still has some of the original factory oil on it, is in a drawer at home! It's the best of both worlds! It just might get a little costly!
Drawer queen:
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EDC:
20230523_085717.jpg
Once you've got the first scratch, you don't worry so much about the next one! T-A
 
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