Ka-bar Vs more expensive knives

Joined
Sep 9, 2001
Messages
138
I chose Ka-bar as this is the only tactical knife I used extensively, in my case it was the original ww2 sort. I was wondering what is the difference in performance between Ka-bar and Randall, Strider or over expansive knives? Are this knives vastly superior or is it just a case of a sharper knife and a scary looks or are this knives capable of something that Ka-bars are just not capable of? :rolleyes:
 
I've always found the KA-BAR made KA-BAR to be a wonderfully reliable all-purpose sheath knife. And the pricing is most often very fair.

However, it depends greatly on what you the knife user wants or needs from the knife you carry. It may be specific features, or steel, or handle configuration / materials, or edge type, or point design, or durability / lateral strength in the blade, or even a very specific RC hardness.

And the amount of money you have available and are willing and ready to spend on a knife.

We all know folks who will spend multi-thousands of dollars on a custom made hunting rifle and less than $100 for their field knife. It's where your emphasis lies, I suppose.
 
The traditional USMC knives have proven themselves for years on the battlefield....knowing how to use it to maximize its performance and minimize damage is key.

The only weakness that most have found with the original design is the stick tang -- it tends to bend more easily while prying than a full tang blade.

Either way, I love the USMC design. It's a classic!

Best,

Brian.
 
However, it depends greatly on what you the knife user wants or needs from the knife you carry. It may be specific features, or steel, or handle configuration / materials, or edge type, or point design, or durability / lateral strength in the blade, or even a very specific RC hardness.

Well I am joining the Australian army (I got 2.5 weeks of civilian life and than its of to basic training) so me and some friends of mine were discussing do I need a best knife money can buy or will my Ka-bar be able to do the job. Personally I reckon that Ka-bar will do all the same things more expensive knifes can; I would be happy if someone could explain what do the extra $250 do to the knife? :D
 
Well, one of the biggest things $250 will do is buy you a knife that is guaranteed not to fail. Busse and Strider are the two companies that come to mind immediately. If you do manage to break one of their knives (and it's not on purpose and you don't use a hydraulic ram), they will make it right. To me, the peace of mind brought by knowing that their knives will take abuse far beyond that handled by pretty much any issue knife, is worth something, and it would be worth even more if I was in the military. I'm not knocking the Ka-Bar, 1095 is a good steel at a low price point, and the design is a proven one, but if you feel that strength, toughness, a better handle design, stainlessness, cutting efficiency, and edge-holding, over and above that supplied by the lowest bidder is important to you, you might want to consider moving up. Move up to a $300 knife, and you have a knife you can be sure will do whatever you ask of it.

If you don't want or need that capacity, don't bother spending the extra money. You won't be happy. If you're happy driving a Ford Pinto, and it gets you where you want to go, you probably won't be happy with a 4x4 3/4 ton Chevy.
 
Hi survivor,

If I were about to take myself in to harm's way, I'd want some thing that was a little harder to break. It sounds like money may be a factor...
Newt Livesay makes some very tough blades with a full tang for a very good price. He caters to the military, so this might help if your in a rush.
Stay safe!
 
Survivor,

Good for you for joining the military. I think you will be more than happy with the KA-BAR. I carried one for years in the USMC and it did all I needed it to do. I think a KA-BAR and multi tool should be issued to every soldier. While inthe Army I used the KA-BAR to dig up unexploded 155's, open MRE's, pry open ammo crates, cut fuse and det cord, and throw at things when I was bored. The best thing was if I lost it, a replacement wouldn't break the bank. Good luck in the military, stay safe, and DON'T VOLUNTEER FOR ANYTHING, unless it's really cool.

Let me know if you have time and I will send you an OD green sheath as a graduation present.

Take care,
 
Burke I believe Robert H already answered for me.

Robert thanks for advice and an offer of a present but first I am not sure I’ll carry the Ka-bar (I still want to have a bayonet which I can use to mount on a rifle but I rely love my Ka-bar so I am in a bit of a dilemma). And don’t worry about sending a sheath I was actually considering gating a rig made up if I am sent to the unit I requested (3RAR paratroopers) so after I finish all my training I’ll order one from you.

P.S. can your rigs be worn without interfering with parachute opening.;)
 
survivor, it seems like you already have your mind made up on this subject. Why bother to ask? I've seen Ka-Bars break from being thrown (whether they should be thrown or not is a different issue), I've seen them rusted out at the handle-tang juncture, and I've seen old ones with the handles rotted off. I also don't like that handle style at all, mostly for ergonomic reasons (it doesn't fit my hand well).

Is the Ka-Bar a durable inexpensive blade? Yep, no denying it. Is something like the Busse Natural Outlaw a direct improvement in every category except cost? Yep. I told you what the extra $250 will do; if you don't care that's your business.
 
It does sound like you had your mind made up before posting...
Nope, no denying it, the Ka-bar, for the money is a great knife.
I'm not comparing a Livesay to a Busse. Sardines to sushi.
For the money involved in getting a Livesay over a Ka-bar, it's a no brainer....:confused:
 
I love the design, but the ones I have owned in the past had a weak spot. I would be prying bark off a fallen log or digging a root out of the ground and the knife would bend at the blade/handle junction. I could straighten it back out but it was annoying.......I still like them though.
 
Buy a KA-BAR "kabar" for training.

Pick up a Strider combat knife for real world deployment.

The KA-BAR will serve you well for daily field duty. If you lose it, break it, or otherwise see it go bye-bye it ain't no big deal.

The Strider, for example, is your go-to-war knife. It's the one you have no concerns about regarding design, workmanship, or application. It'll be there when you need it.

This is a common approach by many Folk in the business. Do some good shopping and you'll most likely find yourself spending less than you might think for both knives.
 
TOPS Knives likewise offer a wide variety of exceptional field bladeware. I just got done evaluating the SF Command from TOPS. Excellent field / combat knife. Price is perfect. You can jump the knife as it comes from the maker (I did last SAT). A KA-BAR "kabar" and SF Command will cost you just under $200.
 
Becker Combat / Utility 7. Better than a Ka-Bar, less likely to break, more ergonomic, better handle materials, and inexpensive to boot.

Busse and Strider are great if you have the money for them - and if you have the money, you definately should get them. Lower enlisted pay being what it is, however, the Becker is a great choice as a primary field tool.

As for jumping with Robert's systems, if you are jumping out of the closet, sure, because that's what they are designed for (guys who are in the closet). Rob's a subject matter expert in that field - he's been in the closet for years.

Surviving parachute opening is another matter - for those you'll need Robert's special system with all the straps and studs. Yes, he has a special fascination with straps and studs, must be all that time he spent in the Navy. You should see the packing material he uses... the horror.

Kevin
 
GET SOMETHING TOUGHER THAN THE KABARGET SOMETHING TOUGHER THAN THE KABAR you will thank yourself for this in the future. It's not that the Kabar is bad, it's just that it wasn't taking the rough stuff very well. I had a slight bend in it that I could never quite get rid of and the handle was coming loose. When I finally found the knife that could survive what I was using a knife for I felt much better about life in the field.
 
Ah yes, never an uninteresting comment from the flesh obsessed owner of "blade" forums.

But seriuosly, Survivor, I will look forward to sending you a rig, and I don't think I'd wear it while foolishly jumping from a plane. From what I understand that can be somewhat dangerous in it's own right. Kevin himself took a few too many hard PLF's I think.

(That's parachute landing FALL folks, as in falling-to-your-death)

It would probably be better to pack the rig away until you reach the ground without being shot up, caught in trees, hung up in electrical wires, shot by triple A, or drowned.
 
...just a little plug for Rob on his pic...that knife frickin' ROCKS!!! The Gunner grip is awesome! The band-breaker is well designed, the guards are comfortable, and the knife is a truck!

Brian Jones had a fighter version of the Raven (that's the name)that he showed me at Shot Show and I REALLY liked it...
 
Well Rob Simonich description of Ka-bar bending is somewhat disturbing, and that knife of yours looks very nice but why the camouflage on the blade?

Becker Combat / Utility 7 may be the answer, but once I save up a bit I might get a TOPS or Strider.

So if I have to pack the rig away what do I do than I am stuck up a tree?
 
Love the camo pattern on the "Gunner". That is very cool. Nice to see some creative thought processes as opposed to black blades, shiny blades, matte blades, chrome blades, blahblahblah.

I'm jumping a Tactical Tailor chest harness these days. I like way better than the old H-harness LBE or the newer combat vest rig they issued. Logan at Tac-Tailor really got the package right with their chest harness and it gets better with the direct input coming back from the operators using this rig in the field the world over these days.

You have to get the model with the dual buckle system up front. When jumping the new chutes the chest rig must be opened up (unbuckled in the front) to allow the chest strap on the parachute harness to comfortably hook up / fit. The rig is slipped through the para-harness on both sides and then the harness is cinched down. Although it appears the T-T chest rig might flap a bit in the breeze once you exit the aircraft I did not experience this. I'm packing 1 quart canteens in the drop pouches which sit just below my arm pits when wearing my rig. I believe the water weight holds the rig steady during exit / opening. The rest of the pouches running across the front of the rig were likewise packed and secured using the cinch down ties and velcro retainers for each pouch. Nothing was lost or came loose / free during exit, opening shock, or landing.

This is a very comfortable rig to jump and all the weight is evenly distributed on your shoulders, back muscles, and chest. Plus, you can get to what you need FAST, even while still in the harness. I understand some operators elect to strap the rig over their rucks and jump them in this way. I don't see why given my experience, and I wouldn't like to see the ruck impact on the rig during landing given what might get roughed up in or on the rig. Plus, I like my harness/rig right there in case the DZ sucks something fierce, or if I have to cut the ruck away due to an inflight emergency.

Knifewise you can jump a blade in a hard plastic or Kydex sheath system off the old style LBE pistol belt / combat vest without much trouble. I'm working on how to affix my SF Command from TOPS to the T-T rig so the knife is riding with me on the combat harness during a drop. Normally you want nothing on your pants belt when jumping in, and most often many of us "old guys" tuck the fatigue shirt into the pants and cinch the pants belt down prior to putting on the chute.

If you elect to jump a knife in that, for whatever reason, can be attached to the LBE rig then pack it either on top of everything else in the ruck so you can pull it out fast upon landing, or pack it in an outside ruck pouch / pocket for the same reason. However, ensure you can cinch down and/or tie the outside pocket TIGHT as opening shock will rip the crap right out of a poorly secured outside pouch. Remember the ruck is riding in the harness upside down and when lowered it will come to a sudden stop once the lowering line is fully extended. You find lots of neat things on a DZ after a few drops because of badly packed and secured ruck pockets.

I know guys who will pack a medium size sheath knife in their pants cargo pocket, then attach to belt or harness once on the ground. Again, make sure the pocket is secure and be prepared to land atop the knife/sheath while doing a PLF (parachute landing fall). That could hurt bad...

The T-T with a long drop pouch mounted along your sides underneath the arm pit(s) would work fine for dropping the sheath knife into and recovering once on the ground and safe. Further, if you get hung up or need it for whatever reason it's there and handy as opposed to wrapped up ass-backwards on a pistol belt, or stuffed in your rucksack.

As always, safety first. If the rigger or jumpmaster says "no go", it ain't going.
 
Back
Top