Knifetests.com Project 1 Destruction Test.

I can see fit and finish.
I can feel how a knife feels in my hand.
I can even puzzle out certain features that impact toughness, like sharp blade/tang transition (think "Ka-Bar")

I can't see heat treatment, and that has at least as much impact on toughness - and edge taking/holding -- as anything else. As a result, I have to rely on my experience (a tiny % of the whole body of experience), the reputation of the maker for good heat treatment (good reason to come here)+ any tests that seem to make sense.
 
true, I'm just saying why use the sledge? I don't get that? no matter what knife you are using thats going to hurt it, even the Busse family knives all broke.


Because that's the point of the tests. To slowly increase the difficulty of the stress until the Knife breaks. Might take a long time beating them with wood.
 
to me, it's not about showing off a knife, it's about the time and attention that the maker put into that piece of steel that is now a finely crafted tool. Like the difference between a ford(with the exeption of the GT) and a Ferrari, fit and finish materials, etc.




I have to dissagree here, they are labeled destruction tests, and as far as I can tell he has never not destroyed a knife. They are about destroying a knife, I mean come on, he took a Mora and hammered it through a cinder block. And as for the CR knives breaking, yeah it was a bit suprising to me that they broke so soon, HOWEVER take a look at the video, he is using a sledge hammer, steel on steel is not that bright, also he has the handle lower than the rest of the blade, this puts insane amounts of stress right in the area both knives broke in. Why he uses a steel sledge is beyond me, I'd bet if he had used a mallet or a wood baton they would not have broke when they did


Look at the destruction test from the standpoint of the stresses exerted on the blade there is a reason for using a steel hammer.

It's interesting that cheaper knives took far more punishment from the hammer before breaking.

Like I said it's not "about" breaking the knife if that was all he wanted to do a 10lb sledge would be much faster but then again you would not learn anything except that you could break the knife and of coarse we already know the knife can be broken.

It's easy to make something look good and there are lot of people willing to "pay" for something that "looks" good. Image is what comes to mind after all if it looks good people assume it's well made and the don't look any deeper.....

For years everyone has assumed the CR knives were "Tough" after all read the description. They look well made from top shelf materials held to very tight machine tolerances. They look like a $400 knife but as Noss has shown there performance is more in line with light general duty utility rather than tough heavy duty use.

If all your interested in is a light duty utility knife and are willing to invest $400 then fine it will probably serve you well. But if your looking for a more rugged knife there are much better choices out there for a lot less.

Everyone gets something different out of Nosses test. Some get nothing some can't get past the cinder blocks and others get a great deal.....
 
Save for drag racing, "fast" is something that doesn't really happen until after the car starts to turn, and it's going to take a lot more than nos (no pun intended) to make your F-body do that well. A *lot* more.

This is actually kind of an interesting analogy, because it illuminates the fact that real performance is often about balancing conflicting objectives. There is also a very steep rate of diminishing return on investment, so it gets more and more expensive to acquire each additional unit of increased performance.

The way I look at it, there are four fundamental characteristics for a field knife: Toughness, ability to take an edge, ability to hold an edge and corrosion resistance. Of course there are all sorts of other physical criteria, like geometry, balance, heat treat, etc.

If you're willing to drop or mitigate one or more of those four basic characteristics, it becomes much easier (less expensive) to produce an effective knife. If you want to maximize all of them, it's going to be costly, and (as we see here) there may be some issues with how the four are balanced.

good post. i was actually wondering if i'd get called out on the balance issue. :) after all, when it comes to souping up a car your choices are 1) fast, 2) cheap, and 3) reliable. you can only choose two.
 
i don't know if this will really add to the conversation, but i just got back from a week of camping and fishing in Killarney Provincial Park, north of Toronto. i used a $20 Gerber Profile from Wally World all week. i used it to cut wood and start fires, build a shelter, cut rope, cord, fishing line, and fish; and even used a rock as a baton to chop down a 4" sapling. it got a little dull and some of the TiNi coating came off, but approximately 30 seconds on a $9 V-sharpener had it shaving the hairs off my arm again.

the bottom line is that knives are cutting tools and all will fail at some point when subjected to extreme use and/or abuse. now, some will fail more quickly than others, but when i can do roughly the same thing with a $20 piece of steel as you can with a $400 piece of steel, then someone has been sold a bill of goods- and that someone isn't me.

somewhere along the line, your high end knife means pretty much the same to me as your exotic car. yes, it's really pretty to look at and goes really fast; but i can spend 1/5th the money on a Mustang or Camaro with a Nitrous kit that will blow your pretty (and really expensive) car out of the water... same with watches. yeah, $9k Breitlings are pretty to look at. they do exactly the same thing as a $90 Fossil- tell you what time it is...

it's all subjective of course, but there's NO WAY i'd carry a $400 knife into the woods with me. it's just not worth it. especially when i can buy a "Chinese piece of crap" that does the job for 1/20th the price, and with no crying if (when) it breaks.

the vids are cool but i don't think any of us really 'learn' anything about the usefulness (or lack thereof) of the knives in real world applications.

meh, i'm rambling here, but i will NEVER buy a knife that i'm not willing to beat the ever-loving piss out of. a knife that's too expensive or pretty to use is useless.

peace.

Actually, this is a very interesting post, because it reveals some misunderstandings and strange attitudes common in almost all walks of life.

First, a very vague concept of "roughly equal" or "roughly the same" performance. What does "roughly the same" even mean? Who and what determines when the differences between two things are relevant enough that they can't be called roughly the same?

Second, the awkward idea that expensive items can't be used. Just because one person is afraid of doing something doesn't mean everyone else is, too. I'll use a $ 1,500 car, and I'll use a $ 1,000,000 car too if I happen to get one by some enormous strike of luck. Some people don't use expensive items, even if they own them. Some people do. Not all in the latter group are wealthy people.

And finally third, ignorance or perhaps indifference on quite a number of aspects of "performance". The car example was good, I think. Slapping some nitrous kit in a car won't give it any better aerodynamic performance or handling or balance or anything. Sure, it'll give you straight-line speed, but you'll still get wasted in the corners, where things actually require something from the driver and the vehicle. So, instead of blowing anything out of the water, the nitrous equipped home made racer will more likely find itself off road and on the bottom of some roadside ditch, while the expensive car it was supposed to blow out of the water flew right through the corner and continues on. People seem to be completely oblivious to many important aspects of performance. One could say that a $2 Chinese 440A folder has roughly the same performance as a $ 200 Busse Game Warden - because both are knife blades that cut materials. On the other hand, anyone could tell that the Game Warden has enormously superior performance in some fields, such as edge retention and toughness - both of which are important to people who actually use their knives.

Of course, there are a lot of people who think that more expensive automagically means better, and they're wrong. Price doesn't determine performance, performance itself determines performance. You can get a $ 1000 knife that performs like crap, and a $ 7 knife that performs decently well. On the other hand, money can be used to make things better - but is not always used for that end. You can make a good knife with $ 20. But you can't make that knife as good as you could make one with $ 400.

Each man determines what he needs from his knives, but one can't reasonably deny there are real performance differences with knives - good cheap knives always perform lower than good expensive knives. Any exceptions either aren't good knives or aren't cheap knives.

Just as an example... if one thinks that a $20 knife can do the same job as a, say, $ 400 knife, then why not just tell us which $ 20 knife perfoms as well as, say, a Busse ASH-1 in terms of edge retention, toughness and chopping performance - and warranty - all in the same package? I would buy that $ 20 knife. I'd buy five of them. Unfortunately, it doesn't exist. Sure, you can chop down a sapling with that $20 knife and you can do the same with that $MUCH Busse. But anyone who claims there aren't any differences between the two in such things as edge retention are out of their minds. :) Of course, it's up to each man to determine whether those differences make the much higher price worthwhile to them as individuals. But even if it's not worth it for you, it may be more than worth it for someone else.

Not really sure why all this seems so difficult for some people. It's not like performance is a complicated issue, if you actually bother to think about it. ;) I don't mean to come across as offensive or anything here, but I do honestly wonder about some things some people say. It seems as if some people, after finding something "good enough" for them personally, ceased to perceive any further differences in performance. To use a car example again, it would be exactly like saying: I only need a car that goes 60 MPH and takes me from A to B, so my cheap car that tops out at 65 MPH is actually roughly the same in performance as your Ferrari (although my cheap car is of course a million times better than cars cheaper still that only go 50 MPH). Sure, the Ferrari is a lot faster, but somehow I just don't seem to give that any credit.
 
you don't come across as offensive at all. i used the words 'subjective' and 'relative' (especially when it comes to what defines 'expensive') for a reason. and no, i don't think that a Gerber Profile will perform as well as a Busse Game Warden...

but the Ferrari example brings up an interesting question. would you daily drive a Ferrari? i'm aware that if you can afford a Ferrari, then the fact that oil changes cost $1200 won't matter much, not to mention the fact that you probably have several other cars too. that's where the practicality issue rears its head. it's not practical to daily drive a Ferrari. even if you could afford a Ferrari, chances are, you daily drive something far more practical. i know a couple guys with exotic cars. they pretty much only drive them on the weekends. (Porsche seems to be the exception, but that's another discussion.) so, much like the Ferrari, i have to ask the question 'can you daily carry a Busse?' if the answer to that is 'no' then what good will that Busse do you when your car breaks down in the desert and you have to use the knife you're carrying to survive?

i'm looking for the balance of practicality, carryablility, performance, and cost. unfortunately, i think i'm searching for the Holy Grail of knives... but then again, aren't we all? :p
 
Bors and Justabuyer, I definately see you points, and agree to a certain extent. It's just suprising to me that the Green Beret did so "poorly", I've had mine for years and have put it through some very serious use and into the real of abuse, including prying doors open.
So I am happy with mine, and I still hold to his tests being destruction tests.
 
you don't come across as offensive at all. i used the words 'subjective' and 'relative' (especially when it comes to what defines 'expensive') for a reason. and no, i don't think that a Gerber Profile will perform as well as a Busse Game Warden...

but the Ferrari example brings up an interesting question. would you daily drive a Ferrari? i'm aware that if you can afford a Ferrari, then the fact that oil changes cost $1200 won't matter much, not to mention the fact that you probably have several other cars too. that's where the practicality issue rears its head. it's not practical to daily drive a Ferrari. even if you could afford a Ferrari, chances are, you daily drive something far more practical. i know a couple guys with exotic cars. they pretty much only drive them on the weekends. (Porsche seems to be the exception, but that's another discussion.) so, much like the Ferrari, i have to ask the question 'can you daily carry a Busse?' if the answer to that is 'no' then what good will that Busse do you when your car breaks down in the desert and you have to use the knife you're carrying to survive?

i'm looking for the balance of practicality, carryablility, performance, and cost. unfortunately, i think i'm searching for the Holy Grail of knives... but then again, aren't we all? :p

Me? I would drive a Ferrari "daily" (in so far as I drive any car daily, which I don't), if I had one. I couldn't drive it everywhere, though, since it doesn't do difficult terrain all that well. :D Ferraris are built for rather different road conditions. But if I lived in, say, an Italian city, I might as well do all my driving with a Ferrari - if I had one.

So, for the Busse question, yes, I can, and have, EDC'd a Busse knife. Nothing difficult about that. The Game Warden, for example, is very easy to carry, and is a great knife, although it could be easily made even better. I'm not sure why expensive knives would be any harder to carry than cheap ones, ceteris paribus, of course. A 3" cheap knife is no easier to carry than a 3" expensive knife. Some expensive knives tend to be heavier on average than cheaper ones, but that doesn't much concern me. Small knives, even the heaviest of them, don't get very heavy at all. No difficulties carrying a Busse. Actually, I find it easier to carry a Busse than a cheap Chinese made knife, for example - at least I can trust the former to not dull immediately upon use or break if I abuse it a little. :thumbup:
 
Trying not to stray too far O/T here.

My pattern of behavior with cars is to start with something very DD-able, and make it much less so. A lot of that has to do with the fact that I'm building the car to race in a sanctioned event, with a relatively restrictive ruleset. So, this thing we are calling "performance" is roughly inversely proportional to DD-ability in that case.

My Busses, OTOH, were mostly purchased with the idea of high DD-ability. I only own three that are too large for EDC in a relevant context. The other 20 or so are all medium or small utility EDC knives. They have superb performance, but that performance derives more from breadth than depth.

Going back to my four basic attributes; toughness, edge-taking, edge-holding and stain resistance, the Busses only have absolute superiority in one area - toughness. In the other three, I own knives that out-do the Busses on one count only, but fall way short in terms of overall balance. I could also easily make a knife myself that would kick the Busses' butts in toughness, although it would hold an edge about as well as a cupcake, and it would rust if you looked at it with a teary eye.

So, all of that brings me back to squaring up one's performance objectives with one's design parameters. I still think that a high level of toughness is important for a knife of the P1's ilk, and I think we can learn plenty from watching these videos - whether they qualify as clinical "tests" or not.
 
Oh, and depending on your idea of "reliable", I'm thinking you can probably only choose one. Lol.
 
ok, th ecar analogy was more geared towards F&F and materials used that make it a "better" read more performance oriented, I carry a Busse almost daily, I carry a Sebenza everyday, my SBR is my go to field knife, and I keep a Busse in my car. I go with teh more expensive, higher end knives because I know they will hold an edge longer, cut more efficiently, not loose tips, etc.
 
Bors and Justabuyer, I definately see you points, and agree to a certain extent. It's just suprising to me that the Green Beret did so "poorly", I've had mine for years and have put it through some very serious use and into the real of abuse, including prying doors open.
So I am happy with mine, and I still hold to his tests being destruction tests.

Yes they are "destructive" tests but without destruction tests you really don't know a given objects operational parameters.
 
In terms of the destruction test, did you see the Rough Use Test: Click Here For Part 1

Yes, I did. And it quite clearly didn't perform anywhere near as well as the Busse tested - and that was just with respect to toughness. If edge-holding had been measured, then the differences would have been even more glaring. The Cheaper Than Dirt did extremely well for a cheap beater, if you're looking for one. But it doesn't come anywhere near the Busse's performance. Which, of course, is the way it should be, with the enormous price differences between the knives.

As has been said, making a tough knife is easy. Making a tough knife that also actually cuts and holds an edge extremely well is very difficult.
 
funny, i thought this thread was about Chris Reeve's knife, not Busse's...

Scrapyard.....

fair enough. now tell me where i can find a Dumpster Mutt that isn't marked up 70% on the secondary market.
 
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funny, i thought this thread was about Chris Reeve's knife, not Busse's...

It was, and then someone questioned what useful information can be garnered by these tests, and were answered that it came from comparing the test subject with the results of other knives in similar testing, which segued into which knives had performed significantly better, which brought us to Busse. Oddly, I think you already knew that, which might make me ask why you asked, but similarly, I think I already know that. ;)

Oh, and Scrap Yard $ times 170% is still less than the Project 1.
 
now tell me where i can find a Dumpster Mutt that isn't marked up 70% on the secondary market.

As Im sure you know if you want the lowest prices you have to wait until they offer them directly. If you dont want to wait you pay the mark up on the secondary market. The fact there is a huge markup for any Bussekin knives is based on supply and demand. They are considered to be the toughest knives made so there is a huge demand, can't really consider that a negative IMO. These knives are worth it, even on the secondary marker, hence they sell for these prices. I consider there initial price (the one they sell for directly) a bargain. Keep in mind Busse knives have barely changed in price over many years :thumbup:
 
As Im sure you know if you want the lowest prices you have to wait until they offer them directly. If you dont want to wait you pay the mark up on the secondary market. The fact there is a huge markup for any Bussekin knives is based on supply and demand. They are considered to be the toughest knives made so there is a huge demand, can't really consider that a negative IMO. These knives are worth it, even on the secondary marker, hence they sell for these prices. I consider there initial price (the one they sell for directly) a bargain. Keep in mind Busse knives have barely changed in price over many years :thumbup:

There are two types of dogs, the quick and the hungry. ;)
 
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