Blade Length from Handle: 4.796
Handle Length to Blade: 4.373
Usable Handle: 3.866
Handle Width: 0.833
Blade Thickness: 0.097
Blade from Spine to Blade: 1.418
Width of Grind: 0.275
Length of File Work on Spine: 1.300
Fit and Finish:
Handle: The handle is an odd shape in that it does not have a butt swell. It left me feeling that my hand would slip off the handle at first sight. The black micarta was very thick and not contoured to have a palm swell. The handle is a little more squarish at the top of the handle and rounds toward the bottom.
The handle is well contoured and finished. The blade is well blended into the handle and the two small pins and lanyard tube are perfectly blended as well. I think the fit and finish of the handle is matte, simplistic, but very well done.
Blade: The blade is FAT in terms of thickness from top to bottom. Flatly the largest blade width I have ever used - especially in such a small package. I have an intial feeling that this blade will be too wide. The blade is left as forged except the spine and the grind. The spine is squared nicely and is fairly 'sharp' to the touch. In my opinion, a must for a bushcrafting knife. The blade also has 9 file work divots to allow for the thumb to gain additional grip. They are simplistic in nature - but also well done. The grind is well done. A simple slack belt grind to leave a great convex edge.
Sheath: Damned near perfect in my opinion. Thick, well crafted, well thought out, bullet proof, well oiled - just great. I loved this sheath and simply can't say enough about it.
Using the Koyote Leuku:
I decided to make some simple bushcrafting tools to review this knife. I started by making a bow drill set.
I battoned the wood for this set first. I was using an 18 inch piece of medium density wood. I worried at first about the thickness of this blade and batonning. I found out that I should not have. I flatly beat the snot out of this blade during my tests (into oak) and it had no issues. I used a oak batton and tapped the wood into place. I found that the width of the blade became a real asset while battoning. It was wide enough to give you more control as you passed through the wood and you could keep your battoning straighter than you could with thinner knives.
Being over 4 inches long - it gives plenty of room to batton through fairly wide wood with little issue. The point, being nothing like a spear point also gives you reassurance if you hit close to the tip. In no time I had a hearth basically made.
I then had to clean up the hearth. For this I simply tried to take as wide of curls off the wood I could to make a flat hearth on both sides. This is where one of the issues with the knife became apperant. The grind is a
little too steep - the knife wants to skip on you and not bite as much as it should. The blade does not want to curl wide curls easily. I grabbed my aurora (which is a flat grind) and found it a bit more adept at taking wide curls off the hearth.
With this said - I am not saying that the knife could not cut - it certainly could - the wide grind just didn't allow it to cut as well as my Aurora. Koyote called this a "Convex Scandi" and would agree with his description. Others commented on the grind as well and Koyote had this to say:
"I'm wondering... I don't generally ship with a very steep angle. But it's a funny grind in some ways since it's like a 'scandi convex' and the sharpening work along the whole bevel. Is it possible it's steepening up a bit because of that? If so it's a quick fix.
Or, it's just possible it's a steep angle compared to other scandis! (Mine are generally about 9-12 degrees each side and match up fairly well with the convex.)"
I moved on to drilling. The knife did not excel in this matter. Because it is not a spear point - I did not think it would. It made a fine dimple - but it would be a PITA to drill holes with this blade. I was not enjoying my experience with this knife so far. It wasn't cutting as well as my other knives and it wouldn't drill.
Would I even like this knife?
I then burned in the hearth after making a spindle and cut the notch:
I was having a bit of trouble getting the blade to plunge cut as well, again because of the thicker grind on the convex, and I reached up as shown above and put my other thumb on it. This is the exact moment the tide starting turning in my mind about this knife.
I started using the blade differently. I choked up more - put both hands on it more - and started cutting a bit differently with it. I decided after a few cuts to batton a bit while making this notch. Again, I had control with the batton - and with
both thumbs on the blade - I had a TON of control with fine work like cutting a notch. I finished the notch and actually started smiling... this knife surprised me - I need to rethink how I use this knife a little.
I grabbed another piece of wood. I choked up and started making curls.
Wow - they were thin and the cut was very natural and controled. I loved the fine work I could do with it. I choked up more:
I found I could comfortable choke way up on this knife.
What the hell - is this big thing a whittler?
I started messing around a bit with fine work. WOW! This knife allowed for many flatly odd hand holds and the fine work was simply unbelievable. I could use it as a draw knife - I could take little curls off - I could switch up and make nice divots.
That was when I realized something else. The handles simplistic design allowed for all of this. Because of the lack of palm and heel swell I could move my hand freely up and down the handle and do a lot of different stuff I could not do with other handles. I really started to like this knife.
I grabbed my hearth again and realized I had NO trouble removing 3/8ths curls - but when I went larger it started skipping on me a bit. I can see where I am at with this knife.
Continued...