Looking for custom cutting block

M

mk05

Joined
Oct 23, 2013
Messages
6
Hello,

Was at my friend's and his wife had a really thick Boos block that was the size of, well, a small table top: http://www.johnboos.com/product_Group.asp?s=r&grp=JBC0056

I really liked the look of it and was wondering if anyone here would be able to make one. I have searched, but it seems that I can only find cutting boards of <2" thickness, and not a lot of makers. If the board members/vendors could recommend some excellent cutting block makers, woods recommended for the block, and estimate on price, I would really appreciate it. This would mainly be used as keeping things like cheese and breads, and maybe light use - more look than being practical perhaps...

I have looked around the forum, and came down to these preferences:
- mosaic pattern
- 4"-7" thick, 30"x30"? Maybe a bit bigger?
- Curly Hawaiian Koa: http://www.burlsource.us/servlet/the-11288/#6501-Curly-Hawaiian-Koa/Detail
- Burl (I think?), the wood that has intense coloring and knots
- Redwood: http://www.burlsource.us/servlet/the-11545/#7001-Curly-Old-Growth/Detail

Please let me know if the woods above are too soft/hard/impractical. As previously said, this would be used more for display than function.

Thank you very much.
 
2nd boardsmith but i think you need to rethink your wood choices

i have a boradsmith in walnut 12x18 and cherry 18x24 also a walnut lazy sussan love his work and he is a top notch guy (he was running behind so im not sure what his lead times are these days)
 
Thank you, what woods would be advisable? Are those woods that impractical? Too hard or too soft?
 
I've more a function versus form guy so I went with a maple butcher block from the board smith. Luckily maple happens to look beautiful as well so it was a win/win.
 
Typically, cutting boards use end-grain for the main work surface - so burls and other "fancy" woods wouldn't show off their best sides.

TedP
 
Thanks guys, just spoke to David and I think we are on our way to some boards.
 
Anything over 2" thick is going to weigh and cost a lot.
If you are getting a mosaic board made you want woods of similar hardness.
Koa would go good with mango, walnut, or maple.
But the cost of Koa will be multiples of the cost of the others.
If you use figured wood the price goes up even more.
What you described with figured woods would probably be up into the 4 figures.
 
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