Nick Wheeler Prototype Fighter. "Oh YEA "......

Joe, where the hell did that ugly ass red sting ray sheath come from????:confused: ARE YOU DATING ANOTHER SHEATH MAKER?????????:grumpy:

Paul
 
Thank you Sam, I really appreciate that! Especially considering how much I love your work. :thumbup: :cool:

Joe, I don't know what grit Rottenstone is, but I think it's up in the like 3000 range... I bought some and tried it, but just couldn't get it to work for me. It just polished the blade surface to a ridiculous gloss without really bringing anything out. Maybe I just held my mouth wrong.

The stuff Stuart is talking about is typically used by rock hounds for polishing. I have loose abrasives in damn near every grit you could think of, from 220X up to 3 MICRON! For this stuff though, I really like the 1200 and 1500. It seems like I have to mess with each one and get the stink'n blade to let me know whether to use the 1200 or 1500 for best results. How's that for artsy fartsy mumbo jumbo?!?!? ;) :D

Paul.... there was a package for me when I got home yesterday. What can I say?!?!? Nobody does it better!!!! :thumbup: :thumbup: :) :thumbup: :thumbup:
 
sheathmaker said:
Joe, where the hell did that ugly ass red sting ray sheath come from????:confused: ARE YOU DATING ANOTHER SHEATH MAKER?????????:grumpy:

Paul
Click to expand...


No pappy your the only one for me and that is original sheath ala Shiva Ki


Nick Thanks for the answer

Samuel your the man........ Thanks brother
 
As cool as the WIP was showing the polishing / etching of my fighter, these vids really add a huge extra dimension. I'm sure they are appreciated by those trying to learn how to do it as much as by those who just want to understand how it's done.

Roger
 
JParanee said:
Thanks Stuart

Would that be what is commonly referred to as rotten stone ?
Click to expand...

No, it's not the same thing. I tried pumice and rottenstone but the 1200x or 1500x rock polish I got on ebay works best. You'd think pulling back to 1200x after a 2000x sanding would leave scratches but because of the loose medium it doesn't but has enough abrasion to really remove the last of the oxides.

edit... answered before reading Nick's reply.

Here's a couple pics of the difference between liquid flitz and loose abrasives.

IMG_3763.jpg

IMG_3760.jpg
 
Last edited:
I was home early for the whole Halloween gig and the postal lady rang the doorbell with a package in her hand. Excellent!

Then I noticed al the yellow tape criss-crossing the box, so I knew that Canada Customs had taken a look see... which is sometimes not good....

Then I notice the butt of the walnut handle STICKING OUT OF A COMPLETELY UNTAPED SEAM IN THE BOX!!! :grumpy: :grumpy: :grumpy: :grumpy:

I'm figuring for sure I'm going to see scratches and chips all over that beautiful walnut.

Somehow, miraculouly, and no thanks to the drunken baboons who repackaged that box, it survived unscathed.

So enough bitching.

The knife and sheath are terrific. You see a spine that thick and your eyes are telling you to expect way more mass than your hands are feeling. It has a nice heft for sure, and isn't what you'd call delicate, but it is lively and balanced. Nick paid close attention to balance and it shows. Handle ergonomics are first rate and the walnut is stunning. And JoeP must be given huge props for his input on design - this isn't so much a knife as a seriously badass personal protection system.

This is the first Scout sheath I have received from Paul and I am digging it. Though it confounded the MORONS at Canada Customs who couldn't manage to get the knife back inside properly (okay, so there was a little more bitching).

I am happy to have been part of this all and real pleased with the knife itself. I am also real happy that the knife didn't just fall out of the freakin' box.

Okay, bitching is really and truly done.

Roger
 
Man, Roger, I hope you know that jewel was packaged perfectly when it left here! Glad there was no damage done and I honestly did not think the sheath would be that confusing. Must have some of our ex Senators and Congressmen working in Canadian customs now.

Paul
 
^^^ Oh I know you know how to package a knife Paul - I've seen their slipshod repackaging before, but this was a new low.

Anyway - great job by all you guys.

Roger
 
Roger I am so glad you received the knife unscathed

I can't tell you how pleased I am that you think that Nick and I achieved what we where striving for which was to make a powerful compact personal protection piece with classic good looks and a finish that begs to be used

Power and balance where always paramount in this project and your approval means a lot
 
SBranson said:
No, it's not the same thing. I tried pumice and rottenstone but the 1200x or 1500x rock polish I got on ebay works best. You'd think pulling back to 1200x after a 2000x sanding would leave scratches but because of the loose medium it doesn't but has enough abrasion to really remove the last of the oxides.

edit... answered before reading Nick's reply.

Here's a couple pics of the difference between liquid flitz and loose abrasives.

View attachment 238579

View attachment 238580
Click to expand...


so which is better? flitz or loose abrasives? and by liquid flitz are you talking about something other than the tube?
 
This is the W2 blade from the sanding and etching videos. It ended up taking more etch/polish cycles than I had hoped... but that's situation normal around here ;)

I think it's pretty neat what time, temp, and geometry will do... without using clay. Oh, and a lot of elbow grease ;) :)

standard.jpg


standard.jpg


standard.jpg


standard.jpg


standard.jpg


standard.jpg


Oh, and Chris--- that's really up to each maker to decide. What works for me, or Stuart, might not work for you. But as a general rule, I think Stuart's photos make for an awfully compelling argument ;) :)
 
Oh my gracious me...:eek:

The way the hamon "billows" away from such a crisp line into that controlled puff of phantom smoke on the surface completely commands my attention. Damned gorgeous is what that is. :thumbup:
 
Last edited:
Knifemaker87 said:
so which is better? flitz or loose abrasives? and by liquid flitz are you talking about something other than the tube?
Click to expand...

Sorry I missed your question though I'm not sure I understand. I prefer the clarity from the loose abrasives (first photo) to the dull finish of the Flitz.
If you prefer the other way 'round that's your prerogative but the thread was headed towards the idea that more clarity is better.

And Flitz comes in several forms and the one I was mentioning was a liquid version.

411x8Iwqt7L._SL500_AA300_.jpg
 
I'd like to remind everyone that I taught Stuart everything he knows...

:eek: :foot: :p

Maybe whatever he was learning in the first 5 minutes of his knife making career. !!!!!! ;) :)

I told Mike Q that Stuart asked me something in regard to clay hardening/polishing a couple weeks ago, and I felt like a big fat girl that just had a swim-suit model walk up and ask for dieting tips. :eek: :D
 
Funny Nick.. the truth though is in the first line. Your thread about hamons, the one about why it costs so much for a custom knife, was the eye opener for me.
And now all these crazy hamons achieved through the heat/geometry interaction was nothing short of a paradigm shift..., not to mention the lengthy detailed answers to all my questions..

Thanks Nick. :)

Beautiful work on Will's knife...
 
SBranson said:
Sorry I missed your question though I'm not sure I understand. I prefer the clarity from the loose abrasives (first photo) to the dull finish of the Flitz.
If you prefer the other way 'round that's your prerogative but the thread was headed towards the idea that more clarity is better.

And Flitz comes in several forms and the one I was mentioning was a liquid version.

View attachment 239608
Click to expand...

I normally use free abrasives, i just wasnt quite sure which you were saying gave the better clarity. i normally use 600 grit abrasive and 1000 grit lapping compound *which is just loos abrasive in a grease medium. nowever i am gonna try and get some higher grit loose abrasive as the "clarity" tends to be very elusive. thanks for clearing it up! lol
thanks
~Chris
 
I had Dave Kelly make this sheath for my #6 Paranee/Wheeler... Now that I have Dave Kelly's superb shark inlayed sheath the package is complete.:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

Thanks to Joe, Nick and Dave! It's been a singularly sweet custom knife experience for me! :Dcalw2.jpgcalsh.2.1.jpgcalsh.5.jpg[/ATTACH]
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top