It is likely that what is happening is also what happens sometimes on some of the more "open" see-through Busse slab pins: On the Ontario Kraton handle, the only pin is at the back, it is brass and broadly opened for the lanyard hole, and if that loses its shape, it could be that this is what is allowing the whole handle to move backwards...
I'd stretch the rubber by bending the rubber lower guard to create a gap to the tang/ricasso, but especially try to reach as much "into" the tang's opened "stretched space" as possible, and then fill that innermost gap with crazy glue gel and let a bit of overflow happen when you release the flexible guard...
You may initially inject extra-fluid crazy glue ("regular" or "advanced") so that the glue may flow all the way up into the tang's space... This might work better...
Crazy Glue in its "gel" format is somewhat resistant to vibrations because it has some thickness to absorb them, and the rubber handle will contribute greatly to this: What you need is great adhesion. You can try black silicone sealant too, if a "cleaner" look is wanted near the guard... I think crazy glue is somewhat more tenacious when squeezed thinner, but it depend on what is going on at the juncture...
The trouble with the bent brass pin at the back is that it is surrounded by rubber, but the layer is thin at the back, so hammering on it to straighten it and eliminate the gaps at the front of the handle, then flooding with gel crazy glue into the tang area, might help prevent future sliding of the handle...
This "bending backward" of the pin could be caused by chopping the wood with the backslope of the blade's "flare": This would create a pulling "shock" on the handle at each impact: Try to hit more "outward" towards the actual peak of the blade's flare maybe?
Gaston