Optimal edge geometry

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Mar 11, 2007
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For any given task with any given steel/HT, some edge geometries are going to work better than others, and for any given metric of goodness, there is going to be a best geometry.

Now of course, this 'goodness metric' depends on the task being performed, the hands performing it, the steel, the heat treat, the individuals preferences for sharpness, the preferences about sharpening, etc. Given that, there are still some things that are obviously bad for all the above. For example, for any cutting task FFG cuts much better than a thick saber grind, and if you grind it to a zero edge, you're going to be stuck with an edge that won't stay together, or a thick wedge you have to forcefully press through the material you're cutting.

With all that intro/disclaimer BS out of the way, we can talk about the types of geometries that generally rank high in preferences. A blade that chips out at the base of the primary bevel is worse than one that chips when 10 microns thick, so there should be a higher margin of safety built in as the blade gets thicker.

For a crude model to begin with, I suggest modeling the blade as some shape that goes from some finite thickness "t" at x = 1 to 0 thickness at x = 0 that is held to be horizontal at the spine, and is pushed upwards at the very edge.

Since flexural strength goes with the square of the thickness (2x thickness gives 2x area and 2x the lever arm) and torque goes linearly with distance from the fulcrum (edge) the shape that gives equal stresses has a thickness that goes with sqrt(x) which is a sideways pointing parabola and has a final edge angle of 180 degrees :eek:

The first flaw in this model that jumps out is that we can't have an edge angle that is 180 degrees- I'm not willing to bite that bullet for this model. If your edge deforms into the material at all before getting much side load, then the force is effectively acting at 0+deltaX and the bevel should probably be flattish and come to a point after this.

In addition, since we want a larger safety margin as the blade gets thicker, the thicker parts get thicker faster than a parabola (plus you need stiffness in the other direction).

This crude model, while clearly lacking, still suggests very low angles until near the edge where they get considerably more obtuse.

If you expect the cutting force to be roughly proportional to sin(theta)*thickness, the tiny bevels don't cost you much cutting ability anyway, but they can make the edge significantly stronger.

So what real world data do we have?

My full hard M2 knife is hollow ground down to about 10-15mils and is ground at 13 degrees down to the last 50 microns, where it picks up to 30 degrees and the last 10-15 microns are ground at 35 degrees (all included angles).

Final edge angles of 28 would form 10 micron thick chips under typical every day stuff, but this problem seems to have gone away now that I run a steeper microbevel. The only time I chipped into the secondary bevel was when cutting fiberglass/polyester resin. It cut most of it fine, but when cutting through a thicker piece I had an 8 mil thick chip taken out.

Since the 2nd and 4th bevels are just above failure in my typical use, these seem close to optimal. Maybe I can make the third a bit more acute.

Taken from Craig on rec.knives:
> > Yes. For all round and kitchen usage: Softer steels, 55-58RC a MB of
> > 50-60 degrees included. For medium hard steels, 59-62RC 35-45 degrees
> > included and for very hard steels, 30-40 degrees included. The range
> > of 10 degrees in each case is to accommodate light to heavy cutting.

He's talking about initial edge retention due to deformation/microchipping.

Please share your thoughts on the theory as well as experience in minimum angle/thickness needed for your knives to hold up!
 
We should start by defining the components of a blade profile and their affect on cutting performance and edge retention. A simple, faceted profile would be easy to define and apply to more complex models.

Basic Profile Characteristics:
-Edge angle
-Thickness behind edge bevel (edge thickness)
-Primary bevel shape (convex, flat, or concave)
-Spine thickness
-Blade width

These are the main factors that determine cutting performance. With these five values, we can model most blade profiles quite well. Lets look at each.

-Edge Angle
This determines how well a blade can start a cut (like slicing a tomato or shaving). Too thin an angle, and the blade will be prone to chipping and rolling. The optimum value is highly dependent on the properties of the blade steel. Certain steels will support a finer edge than others.

-Edge Thickness
This is the thickness of the transition point between the primary and edge bevels. This shoulder influences how easily the blade passes through an object. A thick edge will have a hard time passing through soft but stiff materials (think potatoes). An extremely thin edge will feel flexible and flimsy, and possibly be damaged by hard use.

-Bevel Shape
Hollow grind, flat grind, or convex? A convex primary bevel is the thickest and most massive of the three. This is great for choppers when a little extra weight is beneficial. Slicing ability is reduced due to the thicker cross section. Hollow grinds allow for a lower angle near the edge for improved slicing ability and sensitivity. The shape allows for a thicker (and stiffer) spine while lowering the mass and thickness of the overall blade. An extreme hollow grind will be fragile and may bind when cutting certain materials (due to the thick angle near the spine). Flat grinds are a compromise between the two. Neither unusually massive or thin, they are good for multi-purpose knives.

-Spine Thickness
This is largely determined by the steel stock you use. A thicker blade will be heavy, stiff and strong, with reduced ability to slice through material. A thinner blade will be good at slicing, light and flexible, with reduced chopping mass and durability.

-Blade Width
This provides the rest of the information to determine primary bevel angle. All things equal, thinner blades have a greater angle than wider ones. Thin blades are more nimble for complex cuts in material (like boning). Thick blades have the advantage of greater stiffness for a given angle, and ability to scoop up items (like diced veggies).

The ideal blade will optimize each of these variables with respect to the desired task. Some will have a very specific use. Others will try to perform well at a variety of tasks. None will be perfect for everything.

That's pretty much the basics I can think of. Feel free to chime in with comments.

Phillip
 
Here are pics from my goniometer, it shows primary and edge bevel, and it's pretty easy to see which ones have been convexed by my hand-sharpening on stones. I can put calipers to edge bevels and give more info if desired. I also have a couple knives with convex main grinds - U2 & a Farmer in L6, and a Hultafors, which looks like a scandi that had a small convex edge bevel added from the factory.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=663617
 
Basic Profile Characteristics:
-Edge angle
-Thickness behind edge bevel (edge thickness)
-Primary bevel shape (convex, flat, or concave)
-Spine thickness
-Blade width

That seems like a decent way to parse it to start with, though I'd prefer a few more variables describing the very edge, since this is where the optimal curvature is the most extreme.


-Edge Angle
This determines how well a blade can start a cut (like slicing a tomato or shaving). Too thin an angle, and the blade will be prone to chipping and rolling. The optimum value is highly dependent on the properties of the blade steel. Certain steels will support a finer edge than others.

Sounds fine for something with a large edge thickness but time you get down to really tiny microbevels (nanobevels?) this may not be the only factor. If the material wraps around past the final bevel before it is cut, then the relevant angle isn't only the final edge angle but also the next one up.

I don't have a very good idea of what the characteristic distance is, but I expect it to correlate well with and be a strong function of hardness of the material to be cut. I would also expect it to correlate inversely with sharpness, as the amount of pressure needed drops with high sharpness, so the amount of deflection before the start of cut will be reduced.

-Edge Thickness
This is the thickness of the transition point between the primary and edge bevels. This shoulder influences how easily the blade passes through an object. A thick edge will have a hard time passing through soft but stiff materials (think potatoes). An extremely thin edge will feel flexible and flimsy, and possibly be damaged by hard use.

This seems to me to be the single biggest improvement you can make on any given knife.



-Spine Thickness
This is largely determined by the steel stock you use. A thicker blade will be heavy, stiff and strong, with reduced ability to slice through material. A thinner blade will be good at slicing, light and flexible, with reduced chopping mass and durability.

This is another area where knives tend err on the 'too thick' side. If you can't feel some flex, you can make it thinner and still have it not flex too much.
 
The edge bevel is incredibly important and complex. It also gets the most attention (just look at all of the sharpening threads). This is also the factor least inherent to the blade design. Most end users end up sharpening to the edge they prefer. Few users will mess with the rest of the blade shape.

I agree with you about the edge thickness. Just look at how popular Krein regrinds are. Why knife companies haven't figured this out, I don't know.
 
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