Questions and suggestions

cjpgeyer

cjpgeyer

Joined
Sep 7, 2006
Messages
1,650
I know as a novice I have some questions on leathercrafting, and could use some suggestions or advice.
I'll start with this...I use veg-tanned leather from Tandy (first mistake?), and am having a problem with Fieblings black dye. I just can't seem to get a nice dark black. Some places don't seem to want to uptake the dye at all.
Here is my current process. I deglaze the leather with alcohol and a dauber. I allow this to completely dry. I slightly dampen the leather with warm water using a sponge, then I apply the dye with a foam brush. Wipe off any excess.
I am not having a problem with other dyes, just this professional black dye from Fieblings.
:confused:

Thanks for any help, y'all.

Chuck
 
At what point in the making process are you dying the leather?

If it is after you have stitched it, I would suggest that when you deglaze the leather you use an old towell and give it a good wiping down as in trying to clean it as the wax from the thread and oil from your hands needs to be removed.

Use up your Tandy leather and get some Wickett and Craig. They are now selling double shoulders. The cost may be a little higher than what you are paying. But trust me it is good stuff.

If you buy the Wickett and Craig and do not like it for any reason, I will buy what you have left.

www.wickett-craig.com

They just started selling the double shoulders. Just call them and ask for Glenn. He will hook you up.
 
First of all, theres no reason to suspect Tandy's leather, as long as you stay away from the cheaper grades your ok. Anything less than #2 is to be avoided, most of it is imported sub grade stuff that neither cuts or stains well. Also stay away from Belly leather, its the worst cut by far. Hand pick #2 and above and you'll be ok, I dig through piles at the Leather Factory to get what I like/want.

Second, I quit using the pro dye a while back because of the reasons you give. It just doesnt work sometimes. I switched to pro oil dye and havent looked back since. It always takes more than one coat though, sometimes up to four applications to get it done even with the oil dye. Some leathers act like a sponge, some act like they are coated with something. When using standard dye I always buffed the leather in between coats, this helps to remove the chalky residue left by the alcohol based dyes, with the oil dye there is much less of this but its still there to a degree. And with the oil dye theres much less chance of dye transfer with wear.

Also, try not dampening the leather first, dry leather will always drink up the dye faster. Think of it as a sponge, when wet it will only soak up just so much. Stohlman suggests using a little mineral spirits on the dauber when dyeing, this helps two things, condition the leather and lets the dye penetrate better.

Now, this fast absorbtion isnt a good thing with lighter dyes, saddle tan being the worst culprite. With pro dye use either a lot of mineral oil, or a lot of water. I've seen both work well. Stohlman used mineral oil and I value his experience greatly. The oil dye in Saddle Tan is great! But it will still blotch if your not careful.
 
I just noticed Chuddy beat me to the draw. :) Nothing wrong with W&C at all, I just prefer to pick my own leather. I'm just overly fussy that way. ;)
 
Another thing you can do is dye first with dark brown or a dark blue, then do your coats of black.
 
leatherman said:
I just noticed Chuddy beat me to the draw. :) Nothing wrong with W&C at all, I just prefer to pick my own leather. I'm just overly fussy that way. ;)
Click to expand...

I happen to live about 25 minutes away from the WC Tannery. I have been going over to pick my own out. You cannot beat getting to go through stacks of leather to get what you want. :D
 
Thats not fair! Cheat!

Now, lets talk hand picked leather,,,,,,,, ;)
 
I'd say Leatherman makes a very good argument. But a well known maker told me to just buy died leather. Better finish and no time wasted. I know that adds additional expense in inventory but it made very good sense to me.

+1 for WC. Their stuff is quality and they'll split it to your specification.
 
Thanks for all the info guys!
I am dyeing (?), then assembly, then edges get dyed, etc.
I think I am going to try the W&C soon. I always buy oak tanned double shoulders, and I like to inspect the leather, too. I won't buy just anything. I had some really nice 10 oz. russet I picked up last year...this year seems to be nice ivory leather.
I'll pick up some of that pro oil dye, too.


Is this new forum great, or what? :D
 
Be very careful if you decide to try this. Buy a can of lighter fluid, like for an
old Zippo Liter, and pour some on the leather and rub it off. Then the leather will take most any dye.
 
Great advice!

As far as black dye goes I use vinegaroon. Makes the leather blacker than black, and it can't rub off.
 
I've got a big ol' batch of vinegaroon I just made up last week. I've been testing it different ways on some scrap leather, and it looks fantastic.

It's pretty nice knowing there's no dye to come off on anything. :thumbup:

Now if I could just figure out how to make it brown. :confused::D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top