R&D,18th c.American axe

[Square_peg]

I finally finished hanging that axe you made last year, Jake. Sorry it took so long. I just had so much going on.

I left it a little rough intentionally. The poll steel is obvious. The dark steel at the bit is the high carbon insert. I have no idea what caused the darkening of the steel along the top and bottom. My guess is that it's how this wrought iron body etches.

Here you can see the steel filler in the poll and insert for the bit. The weld is open a little in the eye but it doesn't affect the axe. The welds are strong. I had damaged the eye a little while straightening the bit. But it held together well as I fixed the eye with a make shift drift.

Here it is on its hand made 29-1/2" black locust handle. The finished head weighs 2.7 pounds. I modeled the handle after some handles that Old Axeman put on his historic axes which were made like this axe.

I got that bit well aligned to the haft. You can also see how much I convexed the cheeks in this photo.

I took it out for a test run today, just a few small sticks. Gawd it handles nice! Cuts like a dream. Good handle length and weight for the trail. I really like it.

Spotted along the trail as my buddy & I walked our dogs while I made my test run. I've heard a few of you wish you had a chunk of railroad track. This area was logged by light gauge rail 100 years ago and pieces of track remain in the woods to be found. This piece is a little large to haul out. That's my Rottie pup in the middle.

There's a whole long story about my journey with this head and this haft but that will have to wait for another night and another thread.

 

[jake pogg]

Aw,man,Square_peg,you've done Such a great job of this project!
I only shuffled such rough ingredients your way,and look at that,you built a sweetest tool out of that...That's a beautiful haft,the whole overall is fantastic,it just makes my year,if only just that one head makes it to user stage,and it seems like you Done it!
Thanks,man!!!

I'm sorry to've fallen silent here.A lot of my time earlier this week was spent one way or another concerned with my dying friend here.Finally some of his family has made it here,and i abcented myself,and as guilty as i felt crawled into the forge,and only just emerged.

Lots have changed.The weather,radically.From -30F and lower mornings to about that above zero.
But the winds came around into the south,and since my charcoaling station cannot be easily relocated because of deep snow all around,it's a cluster making fuel,the smoke swirling and not going away,making forge itself uninhabitable.
I'm already forgetting how oppressive the deep cold is when you need to stop and think,and all metal around just radiates searing,burning cold...Now i miss those clear cold days and the steady northerlies

I'm a terrible,muddle-headed creature,totally inconsistent.All my resolve to pursue a narrow,sensible path come to nought.
I changed the algorithm,Again...It was too much pursuing that bit all the way to the front of eye,4 heads in the row-all have had issues with that...
A friend suggested that i isolate,fuller-off the front of eye as i do the back...That put me in mind of that page from that book that Bernie posted way back:



That first sentence in a caption...Though probably not verbatim true(you generally don't weld with a drift in),i feel it means something...That the eye is already fully defined(maybe the two pieces were formed under the hammer with drift in place,imprinting it deeply into both).

That is important,as that forms the two "bumps" that may act as weld-scarfs,vs the stock coming together in a sloping V,which makes it so vulnerable to wedging apart,tearing,by the drift.

It wasn't the first time i tried that,but this time it worked Well,for whatever reason.So maybe fora while at least i ought to stick with that,it was simply disheartening to keep ending up with poor seams,making me doubt the strength of all the others in the construction.

Another thing i back-slid on was the mild...I Really need to learn to reduce the mass of forgings,the axes we strive for here were all on the smaller side...To do that i needed to go down in Gauge,it was the proportions stemming from using of 1/2" plate that made me build bigger...I don't have any mild in 3/8" thickness,so went back to using WI.
The stuff is gorgeous(unless them hidden flaws pop up),i really like using it,as challenging as it may be,and so that is what i done just now.
This would be # 12 in our series since last April.

 

[Old Axeman]

Square-peg and Jake--what a fine axe you two have made. It is important to note that it is all hand made, the same as the original 18c axes were made. I was sure, all through the process, that it would cut, just like the great American axes of the past.

 

[jake pogg]

Also,the polls lately been too short,and too fat...100 years or so out of our period,or nearly,another reason to scale down in gauge of side-pieces.
So this stuff is 3/8" thick,and i cut it to 2 1/2" wide(vs 2" for previous tries).

This was the pre-form before i squared the top.I'll post another photo in a sec,where you can see that extra fuller,at front of eye,better:



On this one you can see it pretty good.I really do think it makes a difference in welding.
Another issue,see how i cut the top just Flat?...Well,right after i did it,i started thinking about that old photograph from that book again-see how some of the upper lug is left there?There's some material sticking out,kinda untidy looking...Now i think i know why,you'll see it down the road,i'll point it out again.
Anyway,pre-form squared off:



When i fold it i realise what shitty job i've done making the corresponding parts similar...
(i'm rusty,don't get enough forge-time anymore,concentrate on axes`strictly...general forging skill going away.....)
I'm not going to correct it,will just have to live with the shame,and deal with inconsistency.
This is the bottom,the top is a bit better.But those "bumps" are what i was talking about up above,i do believe that it's a mechanical principle that makes for a good weld(with or without steel extending all the way into the eye,though this one will not).



I squeeze the blade together with some stainless HT foil in between,as i don't want those to weld together accidentally(excess is wrapped around and held with wire).My plan is to make a weld on just that short section forward of the eye to keep the halves together for poll welding.
(in retrospect i should've gone ahead and did the edge steel at the same time...Again contrary to my own recent resolution...but this has raised my confidence in my welding).



Poll with filler piece wired for welding:



It welded fine(insert is 1/2" thick,also WI;so it's 3/8" twice plus 1/2" in thickness).
Now the section of a file for hard-plate wired on:



Poll is now complete,i've plenty confidence in weld quality.



Now i need to insinuate some tooling into the eye that always ends up smashed in by all the action.
I start by prying it apart with whatever's at hand,going from each end in turn.It is at this point i realise just how good and integral this weld is...This could very well be the reason for why some of the old ones show no open welds at front of eye altogether,NONE.



Eventually i just forcibly drive the drift through...Still no damage to seams,they just don't say boo...


And now the moment of truth(and regret for cutting the top so straight/flush).Side view of ready,welded pre-form(minus the blade),see that declivity,the low spot right at the eye?
It cannot be fixed;there's no mass left in already thinned down eye walls,nor can the forging this tall and skinny be edge-set(not by hand,and maybe not by bigger force either without distorting the eye weirdly).
That i why,quite possibly,the smith that sold that museum those two pre-forms has left extra material there,sticking up untidily above the eye...(i could really use it there now).
Of course,we don't know how his finished axe looked either,but i do suspect rather strongly that it was flat across the top,no dip.

 

[jake pogg]

(continuing the thought).There's much welding on the flat at poll...Ditto,at blade...So of Course there'd be a depression at the eye where there's none...

Anyway,the split at end of blade gets spread,cleaned up,a chunk of leaf-spring stuck in...



It welds in just fine...Only too late it occurs to me that disregarding the shape of my WI body i could've stuck in a wider piece of edge steel...(those old McKinnons show steel clear outside the surrounding iron,for example).But there's a lot on my mind,and blade size/shape is neither here nor there,while i'm desperately trying to get at the essentials of design...

Here it is all smashed flat and solid:



That hump is unsightly...Mostly extra iron,but still...I wonder if oldtimers did it this way and then trimmed with hot-cut,or had some way to have it come out just right after forging...

Here's the top view.You can see that whereas in the past i struggled with much extra mass,here i'm actually bordering on running a bit short(to keep within this particular pattern,where the sides converge evenly to the cutting edge,without any S-curve action,an even,bullet-shape if you will):



So after getting the welds nice and solid i must quit,and trim the forging to shape,and call it at that:


Top and bottom after trim(the welds are all just fine;that's a handy thing about making cross-cuts through the laminate-to inspect the welding job quality):



And finally the general overall shape.It's ground Very preliminary,but i had to forge the edge so close to shape that those end blade-seams may not come out in pre-HT grind,but only later,in subsequent sharpenings.
But i have full confidence it their being Solid,and that's what matters in the long run.
A separate issue here,we're interpreting the shape based on mostly very worn-out examples of old work...No end of challenges in this,i tell ya...



P.S.Those lugs...I just noticed that they're shaped purely by peining action when fullering the eye...I haven't touched them at all,not a single blow...

 

[jake pogg]

Square-peg and Jake--what a fine axe you two have made. It is important to note that it is all hand made, the same as the original 18c axes were made. I was sure, all through the process, that it would cut, just like the great American axes of the past.

Old Axeman,Bernie,thank you for your kind words.
Very special thanks also for all your contributions to this project,none of this would be possible without materials and inspiration that you've brought into this.

 

[jake pogg]

Just a couple of loose thoughts,since this thread here is such a good repository for all the info.

A quote from my friend from Tennessee:

"I will note that in the course of my 30 years as an archaeologist I have seen two pre-1860 axe heads that had lost their steel edge. On both, the broken weld showed there was only an inch or less of steel inside the iron cheeks.

One of these was in Mammoth Cave, and the other had been carefully hidden under a rock, probably in an attempt to avoid parental wrath."

And separately,an old Stricker(photo pilfered from auction site).
I like to stare at that photo,much to be learned from it.
(visible welds at poll,and any lack of them at front of eye/shape of front of eye where it comes together;also the proportions of the poll itself).

 

[Yankee Josh]

Geez you guys and these last few posts... Frigging blew my mind! Holy crap these projects really seem to have taken a turn for the better.

I finally finished hanging that axe you made last year, Jake. Sorry it took so long. I just had so much going on.

I left it a little rough intentionally. The poll steel is obvious. The dark steel at the bit is the high carbon insert. I have no idea what caused the darkening of the steel along the top and bottom. My guess is that it's how this wrought iron body etches.

Here you can see the steel filler in the poll and insert for the bit. The weld is open a little in the eye but it doesn't affect the axe. The welds are strong. I had damaged the eye a little while straightening the bit. But it held together well as I fixed the eye with a make shift drift.

Here it is on its hand made 29-1/2" black locust handle. The finished head weighs 2.7 pounds. I modeled the handle after some handles that Old Axeman put on his historic axes which were made like this axe.

I got that bit well aligned to the haft. You can also see how much I convexed the cheeks in this photo.

I took it out for a test run today, just a few small sticks. Gawd it handles nice! Cuts like a dream. Good handle length and weight for the trail. I really like it.

Spotted along the trail as my buddy & I walked our dogs while I made my test run. I've heard a few of you wish you had a chunk of railroad track. This area was logged by light gauge rail 100 years ago and pieces of track remain in the woods to be found. This piece is a little large to haul out. That's my Rottie pup in the middle.

There's a whole long story about my journey with this head and this haft but that will have to wait for another night and another thread.

That came out exquisite SP! I bet it is a dream to use... It looks fantastic! I've been doing a lot of bucking lately myself and that axe looks awesome.

(continuing the thought).There's much welding on the flat at poll...Ditto,at blade...So of Course there'd be a depression at the eye where there's none...

Anyway,the split at end of blade gets spread,cleaned up,a chunk of leaf-spring stuck in...

View attachment 1303040

It welds in just fine...Only too late it occurs to me that disregarding the shape of my WI body i could've stuck in a wider piece of edge steel...(those old McKinnons show steel clear outside the surrounding iron,for example).But there's a lot on my mind,and blade size/shape is neither here nor there,while i'm desperately trying to get at the essentials of design...

Here it is all smashed flat and solid:

View attachment 1303041

That hump is unsightly...Mostly extra iron,but still...I wonder if oldtimers did it this way and then trimmed with hot-cut,or had some way to have it come out just right after forging...

Here's the top view.You can see that whereas in the past i struggled with much extra mass,here i'm actually bordering on running a bit short(to keep within this particular pattern,where the sides converge evenly to the cutting edge,without any S-curve action,an even,bullet-shape if you will):

View attachment 1303042

So after getting the welds nice and solid i must quit,and trim the forging to shape,and call it at that:
View attachment 1303043

Top and bottom after trim(the welds are all just fine;that's a handy thing about making cross-cuts through the laminate-to inspect the welding job quality):

View attachment 1303044 View attachment 1303045

And finally the general overall shape.It's ground Very preliminary,but i had to forge the edge so close to shape that those end blade-seams may not come out in pre-HT grind,but only later,in subsequent sharpenings.
But i have full confidence it their being Solid,and that's what matters in the long run.
A separate issue here,we're interpreting the shape based on mostly very worn-out examples of old work...No end of challenges in this,i tell ya...

View attachment 1303046

P.S.Those lugs...I just noticed that they're shaped purely by peining action when fullering the eye...I haven't touched them at all,not a single blow...

And I couldn't respond to all your posts Jake but this one I think shows the most promise of your recent attempts. Looks absolutely fantastic! I love that photo of the cheeks open with the insert just sitting there. I mean really man awesome work. It's inspiring!

 

[Square_peg]

That came out exquisite SP! I bet it is a dream to use... It looks fantastic! I've been doing a lot of bucking lately myself and that axe looks awesome.

Thanks, YJ.

I wanted to shape that blank entirely with the drawknife but the grain changes we too much for my skills. I ended up doing it by rasp and actually left it with a fine rasp finish. It's very much just a plain stick as an axe may have had in the period. It has a very high center line and exhibits not even a hint of sticking. It's a pleasure to buck with.

 

[Square_peg]

Square-peg and Jake--what a fine axe you two have made. It is important to note that it is all hand made, the same as the original 18c axes were made. I was sure, all through the process, that it would cut, just like the great American axes of the past.

If this is what those axes were like than they were missing nothing in function from a modern axe.

 

[Square_peg]

It is important to note that it is all hand made

A confession. I did some roughing of the stave with power tools. But from blank to handle was done by hand.

 

[Square_peg]

When i fold it i realise what shitty job i've done making the corresponding parts similar...
(i'm rusty,don't get enough forge-time anymore,concentrate on axes`strictly...general forging skill going away.....)
I'm not going to correct it,will just have to live with the shame,and deal with inconsistency.

There were some minor inconsistencies in the eye of the axe you sent me and I will tell you that they were very easy to correct. That wrought iron files so beautifully. I wouldn't be the least concerned with that eye.

 

[crbnSteeladdict]

I finally finished hanging that axe you made last year, Jake. Sorry it took so long. I just had so much going on.

I left it a little rough intentionally. The poll steel is obvious. The dark steel at the bit is the high carbon insert. I have no idea what caused the darkening of the steel along the top and bottom. My guess is that it's how this wrought iron body etches.

Here you can see the steel filler in the poll and insert for the bit. The weld is open a little in the eye but it doesn't affect the axe. The welds are strong. I had damaged the eye a little while straightening the bit. But it held together well as I fixed the eye with a make shift drift.

Here it is on its hand made 29-1/2" black locust handle. The finished head weighs 2.7 pounds. I modeled the handle after some handles that Old Axeman put on his historic axes which were made like this axe.

I got that bit well aligned to the haft. You can also see how much I convexed the cheeks in this photo.

I took it out for a test run today, just a few small sticks. Gawd it handles nice! Cuts like a dream. Good handle length and weight for the trail. I really like it.

Spotted along the trail as my buddy & I walked our dogs while I made my test run. I've heard a few of you wish you had a chunk of railroad track. This area was logged by light gauge rail 100 years ago and pieces of track remain in the woods to be found. This piece is a little large to haul out. That's my Rottie pup in the middle.

There's a whole long story about my journey with this head and this haft but that will have to wait for another night and another thread.

That is one, sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet axe. It has this look of 1860-ies blacksmith axe made to compete in shape with heavyweights like Douglas, Blood or Pulaski Carter

 

[Square_peg]

That hump is unsightly...Mostly extra iron,but still...I wonder if oldtimers did it this way and then trimmed with hot-cut,or had some way to have it come out just right after forging..

That hump might hot file very quickly with a farrier's rasp.

 

[jake pogg]

There's still SO much data to gather...

Often,we see even a forge-finished axe ground around the perimeter,the outline has been corrected somewhat,for whatever reason...
Possibly they'd just go and butcher off whatever they thought was extra...With a helper holding the forging it'd take only a heat or two....(and then a quick grind...).

But who knows,maybe doing this for years,day in and day out,you get to where all the distortion from welding gets incorporated,where you can actually make a head by forging only?...(i'd not put it past them,humbled as i am by this ordeal so far....)...

 

[jake pogg]

This is Such a rewarding process,chasing that intangible,ineffable Something that makes these axes so special...
I'm just extremely grateful for Square_peg's doing this most important final step(-s),to where we can get a glimpse into the Action of it all as well...

That WI,this particular batch,is such lovely stuff...Even just the way it looks on the outside after forging....I'm running out,only have enough for maybe two heads left...

It's easy enough to get mild plate in 3/8" thickness,but will be a come-down after using this...

(my quest for 10xx has failed,Mark up in town here only had skinny/narrow knife-making stock...But the springs i have are all old,and US-made,and so not the worst option(very probably 5160).

 

[jake pogg]

I mean really man awesome work. It's inspiring!

Josh,thanks,it's kind of you.
Let's get you up to speed with your forge!.I'm wearing out fast,man,and i think you'd make a wonderful successor!
You'd be perfect-with your attention to all the detail,and all axes that you get to see and handle and study,youre picking up All this info,and it will all flow out into the work through your hammer,i guarantee you that.
Re-blading would be a great project.In doing that you'll be following the lines set up there by 200+years of smiths...It'll hone your instincts even more...Pretty soon we'll have a Real US hand-made axe manufacturer...and in Maine,too,those sacred axe-grounds!

 

[Yankee Josh]

Josh,thanks,it's kind of you.
Let's get you up to speed with your forge!.I'm wearing out fast,man,and i think you'd make a wonderful successor!
You'd be perfect-with your attention to all the detail,and all axes that you get to see and handle and study,youre picking up All this info,and it will all flow out into the work through your hammer,i guarantee you that.
Re-blading would be a great project.In doing that you'll be following the lines set up there by 200+years of smiths...It'll hone your instincts even more...Pretty soon we'll have a Real US hand-made axe manufacturer...and in Maine,too,those sacred axe-grounds!

(that's me blushing and looking away)

 

[Old Axeman]

Another reason, one of many, that I love this thread is because 1750-1850 axes and other tools are my all time favorites to use!

 

[littleknife]

Jake and Square_peg, this is a beautiful axe!!!