Randall model 15 overall width?

Joined
Oct 24, 2000
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295
Could someone who owns a model 15 provide me with what the width measures at from spine to edge right where the choil cutout is? This is right at the edge of where the edge starts to the spine. In short the widest part of what I like to refer to as the gooseneck. Thanks in advance.
 
Here u go:

32185460664_c464ba6e5a_b.jpg




Don
 
Thank you very much Don for both the pic and the measurement, exactly what I was looking for. This confirms along with two other measurements taken from two separate 15's what I suspected all along. I recently purchased and received a standard configuration model 15 w/fingergrips, 01 tool steel, etc. After having a stroke of bad luck with a couple of model 14's which I will disclose later in the G/B&U, I decided to pull the trigger on a model 15. Upon examining, everything looked good but I couldn't help from noticing how "skinny" this one looked compared to others I have seen. The one that I received measures out at 1-1/8" and does not have the pronounced cutout(gooseneck)as all the others that I have seen. The other two including Don's all average close to the same, which is 1-5/16 give or take just a hair. Is this just another "characteristic" of the Randall handmade process or am I being too picky? This equates to a difference of approximately 3/16" more narrow in the main blade bevel. What say you? Thanks---Adam
 
Adam, maybe you can take a similar picture and send it to the shop to check with them. They take a lot of pride in their work. If it's not right, I trust they will make it good.



Don
 
I once had and later sold a 'thin' Model #15 and have regretted the sale since. I'd like to see a photo too; I may know a guy that's interested in it... ;)
 
The 'thin' #15 sounds like a rare collector item [emoji106]



Don
 
Thanks Don and Sheldon,

This one is starting to grow on me and has me thinking that this one may have turned out this way as the result of the forging process--who knows for sure. I don't have a means to post a pic at this time, nor do I know how to do it if I did. One of these days I plan on learning how to do this.:thumbup:
 
Sorry but Randall are very dimensionally loose on some models, with 18 style blades ranging from 11 teeth to 19...: most factories are way more consistent...


They always seem to be 0.1" short to spec, while most quality factory knives will be on the nose or mostly over by a hair, which is more acceptable than short...

I had an 18 with the guard completely askew laterally, misaligned handle to boot, and I my 14 had a point ground like a flared boat prow...

The clinton dagger I had was nicely done, but also the guard was not 100% lined up with both edges... It was OK but not perfect.

The only one I had that was perfect in symmetry (and also excellent point geometry and even taper) was my 14 grind model 12, and I notice that model 12s are very consistent in shape. Unusual for Randall...

3/16" narrower is absolutely outrageous, unfixable, and they won't give you an exchange or recognize any fault: They will put it down to the "handmade nature"... They made me pay to fix my "sparring-safe" boat-tip model 14...

Steel and edge geometry is outstanding on all, and that's what makes them valuable: The fine tall hollow grind means the sharpness stays the same over generations...

Gaston
 
Sorry but Randall are very dimensionally loose on some models, with 18 style blades ranging from 11 teeth to 19...: most factories are way more consistent...

The number of sawteeth has to do with the age of the wheel that cuts them. When the wheel is new, it cuts finer, so there is room for more teeth.


They always seem to be 0.1" short to spec, while most quality factory knives will be on the nose or mostly over by a hair, which is more acceptable than short...

It really is a matter of handmade vs. production. Randalls aren't for everyone, especially if you want precision. Best to look elsewhere and not be so quick to throw them under the bus for how they are made.
 
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