Recommendation? Res-C in the oven?

lmcq784

lmcq784

Joined
Feb 5, 2010
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So I got the Super Blue... I have the wool daubers... And I'm ready to try blueing the TNT-15.

I'm wondering if the Res-C handle can withstand the 150-175° oven heat without damage? (For getting up the blade safely to accept the cold blue)

Or should I just stick with a hair dryer or heat gun?

I don't want to accidentally over heat the metal with a heat gun, but not sure if the hair dryer is enough? And both these methods are prone to uneven heating... Hence thinking about the kitchen oven.
 
I would be careful about the handle touching anything while hot because it could deform it from the pressure of contact. Also possibly a slight separation from the tang may occur. Just guessing though. I dropped my scrapper 5 in a burn pile and the handle was damaged, when trying to reform it it only needed a slight bit of heat from a lighter to make it malleable
 
resinguy said:
My guess is that it's OK. I suspect that the hot injection molding temperature is higher than that. But no one outside that Shop can say with any certainty. Call them.
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This. Those guys that play with res C probably know the liquid temperature, and what temperatures it starts to soften. I'm sure at least one guy has pulled a mold too early on a handle.

If I was there I guarantee that guy would be me.
 
I know that Res-C has been dropped in a fire, and became mailable after. Personally, I’d look into removing the handle before heating, but that’s me. Resin guy is right about calling the shop. Only they can say for certain.
 
Thanks guys!
I guess I'll try with the heat gun on a low seeing first and see how it goes.
 
lmcq784 said:
Thanks guys!
I guess I'll try with the heat gun on a low seeing first and see how it goes.
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Understand that to affect the heat treatment the steel would have to reach a temperature of 350-400 degrees F, and soak at that temp for a minimum of One Hour. This is done during the tempering cycles to relieve the brittleness of High Hardness of Austinizing temps of 1400-1500 degrees F. With the heat gun you can control that temperature with no fear of harming the steel.
 
Busto said:
Understand that to affect the heat treatment the steel would have to reach a temperature of 350-400 degrees F, and soak at that temp for a minimum of One Hour. This is done during the tempering cycles to relieve the brittleness of High Hardness of Austinizing temps of 1400-1500 degrees F. With the heat gun you can control that temperature with no fear of harming the steel.
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Good to know... That tempering cycle temperature is lower than I expected! 350F is not that high!

My heat gun is good, but no temp markings... Only a 1-10 dial... So I'll have to be careful!

Thanks!
 
lmcq784 said:
Good to know... That tempering cycle temperature is lower than I expected! 350F is not that high!

My heat gun is good, but no temp markings... Only a 1-10 dial... So I'll have to be careful!

Thanks!
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The Temp might seem low, but that is the sustained temp for a Soak for a period of time usually a minimum of One Hour or More to equalize the thickness of the steel not just the surface of the steel.
 
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