Rixford R44

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Yippeekiay

Joined
Jan 30, 2011
Messages
82
After seeing my first attempt at customizing an axe, A friend of mine gave me one he's had sitting around for a long time. Admitting that he's pounded way more horse shoe pegs than chopped wood it's well beaten on the poll. It's folded over to the point you almost couldn't see the marking R44 Rixford. A 3 towards the center indicating poundage.
Some quick google-fu shows it's a quality axe made in 1944. Well, an axe from a quality maker made in 1944 anyway. Both my friend and his son echoed one another by saying it's likely substandard metal due to all the "good stuff" going towards the war effort in 1944.
My question before taking a file to this thing. Does anyone know off hand if it IS crappy metal or is it possibly as good as the rest of Rixford fare..?
Secondly, as stated, the poll is folded over to the point that the marking will disappear if I clean it up. Is there any reason, besides being made during the war that I shouldn't customize it?
As an aside, the handle is in awesome shape so I'm going to try and rehang it on the original.
Thanks for any info you might have..
 
If you can salvage the handle i would keep the head as is. As for the steel i would bet it's good. By 44 we were winning the war on both fronts and some of the best steel ever produced was being made.
 
Thanks for that..
The handle from the head down is about perfect. My friend couldn't tell me it it'd been rehung. Reason I asked it the sticker, partially faded, from Excelsior, Salem Indiana.
I'm hoping it's got enough solid wood inside the head to just drop it few inches as the top is weathered pretty bad.
 
I have learned that the number is a pattern number and not the year of manufacture. Also, the fact that the poll is soft is normal and not a sign of poor quality steel. Still a good axe and worthy of saving.
 
There was a lot of steel recycled during WWII but I believe it was tested and sorted by engineers and technicians to make properly hardened tools or airplanes.
 
As far as I know, Rixford is renowned for being the upper echelon of axe manufacturing. When it comes to the R-number stamps I've heard it's a date and I've heard it's model number. I've had a 2.5 over marked R-44 though so im not sure.
 
I have a number of Rixfords and value them as high as my KATCos and Emerson Stevens- that says a lot in my basement.

Bill
 
It's true that classic axes have collector value but when the polls are are badly mushroomed or the blades disproportionately worn there isn't any really much merit in valuing one as such. If you actually want to use this and cleaning it up for that purpose obliterates the stamp at least you already know you're not working with an inferior piece of steel. And you could always have an engraving shop (or some such) put markings back on the axe as a continual reminder of it's origin.
 
300Six said:
It's true that classic axes have collector value but when the polls are are badly mushroomed or the blades disproportionately worn there isn't any really much merit in valuing one as such. If you actually want to use this and cleaning it up for that purpose obliterates the stamp at least you already know you're not working with an inferior piece of steel. And you could always have an engraving shop (or some such) put markings back on the axe as a continual reminder of it's origin.
Click to expand...

Minus the engraving, (a nice touch) I've been thinking the same. Plus this handle will give me a nice template for my 4# True temper..
 
could be the catalog number and date (year) are the same thing. Great axes.

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What a strange label. A thicker axe won't cut good, a thinner one won't hold good. What do they mean by "hold good?"
 
the wording was all part of their strict warranty program. I have another tag which reads:

"This axe is as thin as it should be used. If ground thinner by user we will not replace if axe breaks.
Be sure to keep axe with a convex or rounded bevel as if ground concave or with a hollow bevel same will break with a slight blow."

rixford%20warrenty_zpse228hf7g.jpg
 
If you concave the front/bevel you'll likely go through the harder steel they wrap around the softer.
I've noticed alot of places cradle the tougher steel in the softer and forge weld that way. This one has the hard steel wrapped around the softer in front.
 
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