Sebenza angle

I had heard that the secondary bevel was convex? Is there any truth to this? One reason to doubt that it was convex is that at one point the CRK website recommended using a Sharpmaker to sharpen CRKs which would do away with the convex grind.
 
Yes, CRK do convex grind their edges. And they still do recommend using sharpmaker for maintaining the edge only on the 40 inclusive side


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Usually 40 at the heel up to 50 at the tip. They suck to sharpen for a while in that case.
 
So far i've seen factory edge angles on Sebenza's range from +/- 35 degrees inclusive up to +/- 50-55 degrees inclusive (according to my Tormek WM200 Anglemaster)
 
I too have seen variance, but it does seem to usually be around 20 degrees per side. For a good blend of edge holding and slicing I usually re-profile mine in the 17-18 per side range.
 
Unless I am wrong these are sharpened on sander belts by hand. this results in the convex edge and the variance
 
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Peter Hartwig said:
Unless I am wrong these are sharpened on sander belts by hand. this results in the convex edge and the variance
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I believe this is accurate, given that they do have the convex edge and would only happen with a sander (or finishing up by stropping on leather). :D
 
CPP said:
I had heard that the secondary bevel was convex? Is there any truth to this? One reason to doubt that it was convex is that at one point the CRK website recommended using a Sharpmaker to sharpen CRKs which would do away with the convex grind.
Click to expand...

Yep, the edge bevels are indeed convex. My older regular Sebenza I got in 2002 had very thick convex bevels that I actually reprofiled with my Sharpmaker. At that time, I'd never spent that much on a knife, and was afraid of using a more abrasive medium on my knife. It took a long time, and while the edge was thinned out, the bevels are still very much convex.

My 2011 Umnumzaan and 2015 small and large Insingos are much closer to the 20 degrees per side. But do keep in mind that even if the bevels are at or near 20 DPS, using the Sharpmaker will NOT easily turn CRK's conveys edge bevels into standard flat V bevels. I still only use a Sharpmaker on all my knives, and CRK's convex bevels do not go away easily, in my own experience.

Jim
 
wiredbeans said:
Yes, CRK do convex grind their edges. And they still do recommend using sharpmaker for maintaining the edge only on the 40 inclusive side


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Click to expand...

This is going to sound like a stupid question but is 40 degrees on a Sharpmaker the closer or wider the sticks are apart?
 
Wider is 40 . Actually about 21 per side on my used set.

colubrid said:
This is going to sound like a stupid question but is 40 degrees on a Sharpmaker the closer or wider the sticks are apart?
Click to expand...
 
BellaBlades said:
Usually 40 at the heel up to 50 at the tip. They suck to sharpen for a while in that case.
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I know this is an old thread, but I just saw your post BellaBlades BellaBlades . I just acquired a Sebenza earlier this year. I noticed that on the flat/ towards the heel of the cutting edge its set at 20 DPS. But on the belly/ toward the tip, the bevel seems to be set at 25 dps.

Seems to line up with your findings. Is this typical with CRK knives?
Makes it a pain in the ass to sharpen!
 
tonythetigerx2 said:
I know this is an old thread, but I just saw your post BellaBlades BellaBlades . I just acquired a Sebenza earlier this year. I noticed that on the flat/ towards the heel of the cutting edge its set at 20 DPS. But on the belly/ toward the tip, the bevel seems to be set at 25 dps.

Seems to line up with your findings. Is this typical with CRK knives?
Makes it a pain in the ass to sharpen!
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If you have a drop point, the steel gets thicker at the belly. The angle has to get more obtuse in order to maintain a uniform bevel width for aesthetic reasons.
 
Modernflame said:
If you have a drop point, the steel gets thicker at the belly. The angle has to get more obtuse in order to maintain a uniform bevel width for aesthetic reasons.
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Ah! That makes sense. In that case, if I were to sharpen at a constant 20 degree angle with a fixed system, I would have a fat bellow and skinny straight/ flat.
So I guess you really need to use a sharp maker or free hand a sebenza it sounds like?
 
tonythetigerx2 said:
Ah! That makes sense. In that case, if I were to sharpen at a constant 20 degree angle with a fixed system, I would have a fat bellow and skinny straight/ flat.
So I guess you really need to use a sharp maker or free hand a sebenza it sounds like?
Click to expand...
With a fixed angle system, you can overcome the problem by clamping the knife a certain way. I keep the approximate factory bevel, including the uniform bevel width. What system do you use?
 
I have a worksharp precision adjust elite.
I tried different clamping positions, but the best I could do was to match the angle on the flat, around the tip, but at the beginning of the belly it wasn't hitting the edge (or was it that I was only hitting the edge and not the whole bevel - i cant remember)
So if I were to sharpen that way I would either have a thicker bevel at the belly or skinnier at the same position, i would imagine.

I'm not very experienced sharpening. If you have any tips I would certainly value and appreciate it. Or maybe I just need a better sharpening system...
 
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