sharpening thick blades?

D

dfarm

Joined
Feb 21, 2008
Messages
250
Am I the only one who has problems getting thick blades sharp? I can not for the life of me get my Kershaw Tyrade sharp. I can get it to the point of being kind of sharp, definately usable for regular pocket knife chores, but not sharp enough to shave hair. I am almost to the point of thinning the edge (i'm not certain that it would help) Maybe I should pony up and get some paper wheels (I use a lanskey followed up by a strop right now).

Thanks for any pointers.
 
get the wheels and learn how to use them. i had a lansky type system and gave it away once i bought my first set of wheels. you can save it for field use when you're not around the wheels.
 
Thicker blades will never cut as well as thinner blades.
 
I'm assuming you've done the old "sharpie" sharpening routine to ensure you are sharpening to the edge.

Have you tried the mousepad/sandpaper method. Sometimes this works with stubborn edges.

Thicker edges require stricter maintaining of the angle than thinner edges most of the time, i.e. thinner edges can get sharper with a bit of sloppiness in maintaining the constant angle.

That model doesnt look to have a thick blade edge area, at least in comparison to some fixed blades I've dealt with.
 
Having worked with a couple knives in Kershaw's CPM-D2, you shouldn't have any problem getting your Tyrade quite sharp -- assuming you're sharpening all the way to the very edge, and there isn't something wrong with your technique like using too much pressure or not removing the wire edge. My guess would be that with a little more work and patience you should be able to get a good edge.

Up to a point, thicker edges -- meaning, more obtuse edge angle -- don't necessarily have to be less sharp the thinner ones. John Juranitch always stressed this, and in fact is kind of famous for shaving with an ax:

http://media.photobucket.com/image/%2522john juranitch%2522/huugh/razor_edge_book.jpg

However, while you can get a fairly thick edge shaving-sharp, it still isn't going to slice or cut through thicker/heavier materials like a thinner edge will. Your Tyrade could probably benefit from reducing the edge angle, which of course means more work on your part, but with gratifying results. :)
 
I guess I'll just practice some more(and try to get a set of wheels:D) Thanks for the tips guys!
 
I know this subforum is like an infomercial for paper wheels, but even a thick blade like an axe can/will shave with work off a stone. Don't give up!
 
Farm,I just rebeveled a old thick edged Buck to 16*.I used a x-coarse Norton SiC,then went to a fine Eze-Lapp diamond and on to a fine Norton AO 900 grit,then stropped.It will shave alot of hair quick.Still, the blade needs thining.DM
 
i have a few thick edge blades that you can shave with just as easily as a thin edge blade. superdave, talking about the wheels is no different than talking about any of the other sharpeners:rolleyes:
 
You probably just need more practice. When I first started sharpening, it took me a long time to get real sharp edges. (I use bench stones only). I could get them to just barely shave arm hair when I first started. After quite a lot of practice, I can routinely sharpen knives to hair whittling sharpness. Yesterday I even shaved my face with my edc pocket knife when a guy at work bet me I couldn't do it. No problem.
 
I would not suggest taking CPM-D2 beyond 15 deg's it tends to microchip. CPM-D2 is kinda like CPM-M4 in the way that the both get very sharp at pretty low grit ranges. You should be getting a shaving edge or at least a edge that feels sharp with your coarse stone, then everything else is refinement. By the time your ready to hit the strop you edge should already be shaving sharp and if done right with the stones there should be very little if any burr, CPM-D2 is a very "clean" steel and does not form PITA burr's. It also like a good polish and is a steel that can produce some truly scary sharp edges.
 
knifenut1013 said:
I would not suggest taking CPM-D2 beyond 15 deg's it tends to microchip. CPM-D2 is kinda like CPM-M4 in the way that the both get very sharp at pretty low grit ranges. You should be getting a shaving edge or at least a edge that feels sharp with your coarse stone, then everything else is refinement. By the time your ready to hit the strop you edge should already be shaving sharp and if done right with the stones there should be very little if any burr, CPM-D2 is a very "clean" steel and does not form PITA burr's. It also like a good polish and is a steel that can produce some truly scary sharp edges.
Click to expand...

Indeed! CPM-D2 is a delight to sharpen --here's an example of what it can do, and this is using only fine ceramic for the final edge, no stropping or anything fancy:

leek-whittle1.jpg
 
richard j said:
superdave, talking about the wheels is no different than talking about any of the other sharpeners:rolleyes:
Click to expand...
Sure, I think figuring out, why his current method/process isn't working well would be more beneficial than going out and purchasing new electric tools and wheels. Nothing wrong with spreading the Gospel of Paper Wheels though, I'm not married to any method, I have stones, crocksticks... :D
 
if he had just the buffing wheel and the knife was somewhat sharp he could give the blade a few passes on the buffing wheel and have a sharp knife.
 
CPM D2, at least in my experience with my 62 RC Spyderco Military, takes very sharp edges easily with minimal to no burring. Like Knifenut1013 and DOW have said it doesn't take much to get it extremely sharp, just some decent sharpening technique. It is much easier than a burr prone steel like CRKT's AUS-8 to sharpen, at least for me. On my CPM D2 Millie I just take a few strokes per side on my Shapton 1000 grit Glasstone on a microbevel, no stropping required, and it whittles hair easily. It does the same off of Spyderco medium stones as well, but lately I've been using my waterstones almost exclusively.

Mike
 
I know that the steel will get scary sharp. I have a comp. blade leek that will whittle hair, I belive that my problem is my technique on the thicker blades. Maybe I'll try the micro-bevel? Atleast I'm practicing something useful and it seems like alot of people don't know.(I have guys at work always asking me to sharpen their pos 5 dollar knives)
 
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