Snowshoeing

M

MichLee

Joined
Dec 6, 1999
Messages
266
This is one survival skill I would like to start learning this winter. If anyone out there has a preference between the traditional wood snowshoes and the newer aluminum type any input would be appreciated. Also any other tips you might have. I assume I will spend considerable time laying upon the snow at first
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Lee

LIfe is too important to be taken seriously. Oscar Wilde
 
The new synthetics have the significant advantage of not absorbing water. Even varnished gut found on traditional shoes will absorb water and start to sag if the temp goes above freezing. The traditional ones do come in a variety of shapes that have evolved for specific purposes. I have used both and aesthetically prefer the wooden snowshoes but do like the practicality of newer ones. Snowshoeing is straightforward and an hour or less of practice will result in reasonable performance.
 
I have a pair of eastern mountain bearpaws that are traditional wood and have had them most of my life. They work well, but if replacing them I would probably opt for a more modern version. One point to consider: if you do go with traditional, neoprene bindings are much better than leather. Leather gets wet and then frozen and is hard to manipulate as well as slips on your boots.

John
 
There are many kinds of highTech snowshoes out there now, and most are pretty good. Look at Redfeather, Atlas, Northern Lights, and Tubbs to begin.

I personally prefer the looks and the "feel" of the traditional 'shoes, but they are high maintenance, harder to use, and may be eaten by porcupines.

I use my Redfeathers on almost a daily basis - for transportation, not sport, and am pretty satisfied with them as tools. For aesthetics, or racing, I might go with a different configuration.

Good luck,
db
 
I (ANEW) own 17 pairs of ATLAS 1033 snowshoes (top rated for the last several years) which are used by our students during winter trips (when needed).

They are far more versetle than the older styles. They provide me with an ability to travel in harsh mountainous terrain and are of low maintainance.

I prefer the ATLAS and Tubbs styles. Redfeather is an up and comming model also.

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Greg Davenport
http://www.ssurvival.com
Are You Ready For The Challenge?
Are You Ready To Learn The Art Of Wilderness Survival?

 
I only have experience with a pair of traditional wood and sinew BEARPAWS. They worked great for me in DEEP ND snowdrifts. As others have said, the bindings are something to consider. I had a pair of leather bindings that were difficult to buckle when fully clothed. I used them bowhunting and hence, didn't worry about moving so fast to overheat.

Aesthetically, I would always pick wook and sinew!!
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Another recommendation is to use ski poles or a walking staff if in rolling country. I was in rough country every time I used mine and the poles were very helpfull!
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Good luck!



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Plainsman :)
primitiveguy@hotmail.com

You use what you have on you, then you improvise! :)
 
My wife and I own Atlas 1022 and 1033, respectively, and have had excellent luck with them. Being one of the top-rated models of snowshoes for several years helped with our decision as well. While I appreciate the asthetics of wooden showshoes, we went with the newer materials for the reasons mentioned above. We try to get up north at least several times a year to use them, and actually shuffled around the neighborhood several times during and after last year's snowstorm here in Michigan. Great fun, and great for the looks we got.
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Lee, if you can walk and chew gum, basically, you can snowshoe. Your gait is a bit wider, and your hips will get a better workout for it. It just takes a bit of getting used to. Like stepping high enough or "long" enough over things to clear the shoe, or not putting both feet to close together when standing still, and then trying to take a step, leading off with the one snowshoe that the other one is standing on. LOL, I ate snow a couple of times on crazy "DOH!" moves like that.

One thing I was recommended while initially shopping for aluminum-frame models is to look for the one-piece welded frames as opposed to those with the plastic connector plugs at the tails, as the plastic may become brittle enough in extreme cold to break if heavily torqued, ie. a fall or other off-kilter maneuver such as stepping incorrectly across a rock or log. Don't know if how much of an issue this may really be, but the situation should be considered. Regardless, I've always included hose clamps and two pieces of similar-diameter aluminum tube split lengthwise in my snowshoeing kit. In the event of any sort of tube break, with my Leatherman and Sebenza, I can smooth out ragged tube ends, whittle down a branch for a tube connector plug, and clamp the frame back together. Large zip-ties and/or old mountain bike tow-straps would probably fix about any binding problem that occurs. While the chances of such an event occurring are very low indeed, most of us who frequent this forum are on this forum because we tend to plan for or anticipate such contingencies, so I just thought I'd mention this.

Greg, what's your track record been with the Atlas brands over the years, anything to report at all? Ours have been perfect, but we don't put he hard use and miles on them like your gang does.

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Don LeHue

The pen is mightier than the sword...outside of arm's reach. Modify radius accordingly for rifle.

[This message has been edited by DonL (edited 01-12-2000).]
 
I've used both types pretty extensively. Currently I use, in Montana, 1) for icy conditions: MSR plastic snowshoes, with a great serrated lengthwise metal strip as well as the cleat; 2) for somewhat deep powder I use Tubbs Sierras; 3) for more powder and open terrain I use backcountry skis. Snowshoes are always more work than skis but you can go through much trickier terrain. I carry the MSR's in the springtime a lot when some of the ground is bare and some deep snow. The only conditions in which the old style snowshoes are better are for deep powder, for which you need a Alaskan or maybe Michigan pattern shoe. All of the modern style shoes are bearpaws and not suited for deep powder.
 
I agree. Skis are vastly more useful than 'shoes in easy to moderate terrain. They require more practice to learn, and are more expensive (by far if you include all of the required stuff), but are the only way to go if considerations include speed, distance and/or fun.

The only real downside I can think of is that the exposure (risk) can be substantially greater. It's difficult to injure yourself on snowshoes. Skis are another matter.

db
 
Don,

Hi... I have been very impressed with the Atlas snowshoes. As hard as my students have been with them... Not one has broken. They have--and continue to--work well...

However, I provide a fair amount of proper snowshoe technique training before I let a student walk around in my $265 pair of snowshoes
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Greg Davenport
http://www.ssurvival.com
Are You Ready For The Challenge?
Are You Ready To Learn The Art Of Wilderness Survival?

 
This is a new way to travel for me. Diehard
X country skier.

Got a good deal on the MSR plastic snowshows a couple of weeks ago out of www.Campmor.com
for only $50.00!

Walked about 10 miles in them. On firmer snow and in the woods they worked very well.
Seem light on the feet and have a pretty good claw under the front of the foot for crusty snow/ice. Very easy to use.

Got the hard plastic as I though they would be more durable and portable to carry on the snowmobile than the hypalon/vinal coverered tubular aluminum framed ones.

I have noted quite a bit of variation between makers of length and width size for the advertised weight to carry. I personally would error on the side of too large and the MSR rated for 225# certianly is not a large shoe. Must have that floation or they are of little value.

I still much prefer skis overall as you don't have to walk on the downhills
 
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