Spring Ski Tour in NH

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Jul 28, 2011
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Rob Brook Camp

Winter in my neck of the woods has been fickle this year. The climate is changing and bringing new rhythms within the seasons. Luckily, a late season storm dropped a good amount of snow, making a spring ski trip a possibility.

New Hampshire's White Mountains are transacted by two east/west roads. The southern one is the Kancamagus Highway, which climbs out of the Pemigewasset River drainage, up over Kancamagus Pass and then down into the drainage of the Swift River. Between these two roads is the Pemigewasset Wilderness Area, which is surrounded by National Forest. We call the whole general area, "The Pemi".

kancamagus_highway_map_1pc.jpg


The western half of the Kanc runs hand in hand with the Swift as it gathers size in it's run east to join the larger Saco River. On the north bank of the Swift, there is a XC ski trail called the Upper Nanamacomuk. This part of the region is generally flat higher elevation upland surrounded by higher peaks and marked by ponds, bogs and brooks. It's overlooked by hikers seeking the views of the peaks and in the winter becomes the playground for XC skiers and snowshoers.

The Nanamacomuk begins on a USFS fire road.
Untitled by Pinnah, on Flickr

And then it drops down on a ski trail, which is also used by snowshoers. The elevation here is around 1500' which is just high enough to pick up boreal species like spruce, balsam fir and birch but still low enough to pick up large stands of white pine and hemlock.
Untitled by Pinnah, on Flickr

A short 2 miles in, we came to destination, a late stage "pond" which has moved into bog status and is starting to be reclaimed by the forest along the edges. With full snowpack, we could navigate across the bog without damaging it and here we found one of the first treats of the trip... a beautiful stand of Larch. Larch are coniferous trees that lose their needles every winter. They are sometimes found near our high ponds. The trees you see here are not dead. They've simply dropped their needles.
Untitled by Pinnah, on Flickr

We followed some old moose tracks in the snow and worked our way around to the western end of the pond to be away from the trail and to be in position to catch the first warming rays of the sun in the morning. This gave us a lovely view of Mt. Chocora out our front door.

Untitled by Pinnah, on Flickr

The tent we used was an old cheap knock-off of the floorless Megamid. Plenty of space for 2 for very little weight. The snow conditions were about 10" of wet corn snow on top of solid ice. I used an Opinel folding saw to cut 2' sections of some fir dead fall to create "dead man" anchors for the tent. We dug out trenches for the deadmen, looped line around them, buried the deadmen in their graves and stamped them down until the snow consolidated. The tent was then pulled into tension with a trucker's hitch. This would allow us to pull the lines free in the morning without needing to dig out the frozen in deadmen. It's a great technique for pitching a tent in the snow and it worked perfectly.

With camp set up, we skied back to the trail for an afternoon ski with lighter packs to see if we could make it out to the Swift River. Along the way, we saw several treats. This area has a large member of the weasel family called the fisher cat or, simply, the fisher. It's bigger than a pine marten but smaller than a wolverine. We didn't see the shy fisher but we found his tracks crossing our trail.
Untitled by Pinnah, on Flickr

These a thick and magical woods. On the side of a tree, we found this.
Untitled by Pinnah, on Flickr

These aren't oak leaves. This is a somewhat rare lichen called oak wurt or oak leaf lichen. It's crazy, right? It can only be found in places not damaged and with good air quality. There is a story of hope here. The trail we were on was flat - an abandoned railroad grade from the days when they used narrow gauge rail road to clear cut this area. The damage was so horrible and profound, we created the USFS to help manage our nation's forests and to prevent this sort of abuse. God's good Earth can recover if we work together to care for it.

Eventually, we made it to the Swift. Here, we could hear the occasional whir of a passing car on the road beyond the other bank. But we were cut off from that world by a moat of flowing liquid ice. There's no way to cross this river that doesn't end up with being soaked from the waist down.
Untitled by Pinnah, on Flickr

We returned to camp under clearing skies and as expected, the temperatures quickly tumbled as the sun set behind us. But for a period of time, we were blessed with a nice alpenglow on Chocora.
Untitled by Pinnah, on Flickr

Did I say the temperatures tumbled? It was near 40F in the afternoon and a cool 8F in the morning when we decided to make breakfast. Cold winter fog was lifting off of the brook that ran through the pond/bog and the tent, trees and my pack had a nice coating of hoar frost.
Untitled by Pinnah, on Flickr

But the sun - the glorious sun. The life giving grace of warmth from on high.
Untitled by Pinnah, on Flickr

We skied out under bluebird skis on a bed of diamonds.
Untitled by Pinnah, on Flickr
 
I have a bit more time and thought I'd add some additional commentary on equipment that I used on the trip and what worked and what didn't...

My primary shell for the trip was an EMS brand rip-off of the Marmot DriClime Windshirt. It's essentially a nylon windshirt lined with soft polyester material. The EMS version (no longer made) has large pitzips, which IMO really add to the jacket's capability. I can keep it on even when working hard and can easily dump heat with the pit zips open. More importantly, this type of jacket gives great performance in wet conditions. The first day was near 40 and prior day's snow was melting off of the trees like a steady rain. In such conditions, it's tempting to reach for a hard shell to keep the water from getting in, but they are so hot and stuffy I get just as wet from the resulting sweat. The DriClime shirt did get wet but had dried out completely by the end of the day. This jacket sees year round use.

The Stephenson Warmlite Vapor Barrier Shirt is my winter camping secret weapon. It does 2 things amazingly well. First, it keeps me warmer when not moving. Second, it allows me to dry out sweaty trail insulation layer while in camp. I put it on over my long john top and then layer my damp fleece layers over that. Now, the heat coming off of my body core is DRY heat. I don't get chilled from evaporation and my clothing dries out faster. Killer.

I didn't wear bagel bag VB socks on this trip and paid the price for it. While I put on a VB shirt at night, I generally use VB socks during the day and then sleep without them at night to let my feet air out. The big benefit of VB socks is dry boots. Sure enough, when we woke up to 8F temperatures, my ski boots were essentially leather blocks of ice that were so frozen, it was hard to put them on. And once on.... man, where they cold. Not wearing VB socks was a silly mistake on my part.

My new Kelty bivy sack was a fail, as I expected. I loaned my buddy my old TNF Versatech Bivy that has a very breathable Versatech top cover and it worked perfectly. My Kelty has some no-name waterproof/breathable coating and as expected, it frosted up badly during the night. IMO, it's just not sensible to expect a waterproof outer layer on a thick sleeping bag to breath well. I need to buy some pertex or versatech and rebuild the top layer of the bivy. I still prefer full sized bivies under a tarp, but they need to breath.

I took my Trangia and while it performed just fine, even at 8F, I regret not taking my white gas Svea 123. The issue is fuel consumption. I don't melt snow when winter camping (just too much fuel consumption), but I do like heating up water bottles at night so that they'll survive as liquid water over night either in a sleeping bag or in a bottle cozy. The Trangia is just too much of a fuel hog at low temps and I found myself hesitant to process more water bottles.

I can take or leave fires for the sake of amusement. But, I like to carry my Emberlit when skiing for safety, as deadfall is plentiful in the low lands. The combination of the Mora Companion and the Opinel saw worked perfectly for processing Emberlit sized fuel. The Silky saw handles bigger wood, but the weight savings of the Opinel saw is significant and it's still big enough to get the job done. I also converted an inexpensive leather sheath for the Companion to a dangler system with a bit of paracord and a small carabiner. This worked great. I carry the knife in a pack pocket generally but as soon as I got to camp, I could clip this on my pant's belt loop and it kept the knife on me with great comfort and accessibility while in camp. It can also be carried with my pack, as it falls well below my hip belt, but I don't need to do that.

The Leatherman PS4 Squirt did it's job. I needed to loosen tight frozen knots on the tarp lines in the morning and the pliers were a real boon for that.

I carry a ratcheting t-handle driver for dealing with binding screws when skiing. I had a screw loosen and the driver worked great. It's a good reminder that multi-tools are good but when I have modality related equipment like snowshoes, skis, bikes, crampons or whatever - I prefer to have equipment specific tools on hand. Sometimes a multi-tool isn't enough.

The Kelty Tioga external frame pack... All I can say is WOW! No... I can also say, why did I wait so long. It carried beautifully. I just love it.

I also carried a super light packable EMS day pack. It's essentially a stuff sack with shoulder straps. I carry my "10 essentials" and spare hat and gloves in it and it enabled me to carry what I needed to the afternoon's ski outing away from camp. It's a great piece of kit when carrying a large pack.

I've moved to carrying a small fanny pack at the 12 o'clock position for essentials I need on my person like hand sanitizer and a lighter and compass. Works great. Wish I had done this years ago.

If I think of other things, I'll post them...
 
Nice outing. I don't believe that I have ever seen Oak Leaf Lichen in the woods. Nice. Would have loved to see that but your picture will have to suffice.

I think our forests are there to be used (but not abused). The cutting and re-growing is just part of the process. The old logging operations from the early 1900's are pretty interesting. This is the time when the East was essentially deforested to feed the demands of the growing cities. I have always felt that logging operations need erosion controls in place, simple ditching and berms that can easily be constructed. Areas where the loading is done, should be seeded with a natural mix.
 
Nice photos and nice gear review
Jealous (in the nicest of ways)

I also have an old Kelty external frame that I used for hiking the Greens and the Whites
But I never found it stable enough for snowshoeing or x-country skiing
It was alway top heavy (which was great for hiking)
 
Nice outing. I don't believe that I have ever seen Oak Leaf Lichen in the woods. Nice. Would have loved to see that but your picture will have to suffice.

I think our forests are there to be used (but not abused). The cutting and re-growing is just part of the process. The old logging operations from the early 1900's are pretty interesting. This is the time when the East was essentially deforested to feed the demands of the growing cities. I have always felt that logging operations need erosion controls in place, simple ditching and berms that can easily be constructed. Areas where the loading is done, should be seeded with a natural mix.

22RF,

This area of NH is interesting in that around the turn of the prior century, it was clear cut with the use of narrow gauge rail roads. It was classic clear cutting with lots of slash left behind. They'd cut and delimb the trees, haul them down the hills using draft horses and load them up on these small trains. The problem was that dry slash and spark belching coal locomotives combined to create scorching fires. Chocora, on of the peaks in the pictures above, is not a naturally clear peak. A fire ravaged it and it lost its thin top soil and was left treeless in the aftermath.

In any event, one of the other legacies of that era is that these woods are laced with old rail beds. Boring for hikers but we XC skiers love 'em.

These woods are your woods. I hope you get to visit them someday. It's a really pretty part of the country.
 
I have a brother in PA that writes in outdoor publications. i have always felt that a well done historical piece on the logging operations that were conducted in the very early 1900's would be interesting to outdoors types. The state purchased a lot of these lands and made them into "state game lands" often for the unpaid taxes. Quite a bargain in the long term and a wonderful thing for hunters and hikers in PA. I have seen pictures from the northern PA area where entire mountains were essentially treeless. Kind of ugly really and terrible for the siltation concerns of the small free stone streams that contain native brook trout. Years later, they are selectively clear cutting portions. I think clear cutting ultimately is the best approach as it leaves less or fewer culls that have little commercial value. Obviously those culls have some value for birds and animals however.

In the Southeast where I live now, foresters have found that clear cutting is the best management choice and replanting a mix of hardwoods is un-necessary. The native grown trees out compete the planted seedlings. I enjoy reading and learning about the logging history of the Smoky Mountain/Blue Ridge area of the Appalachians. The Blue Ridge mountains are very rugged. There are small areas of virgin timber that remain.

I very much like how you provide a map of the area as often in these threads that actual area of interest is hard to discern.

I also noted your use of the Leatherman Squirt PS4. Great little tool!
 
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Was watching the National Geographic channel today, a show on the settling the Americas and the impacts that the European's had on the native tribes as well as general development. The one thing that struck me was the massive cutting of the Eastern US forests for export to Europe which is something I was not aware of. This was going on before 1776. It seemed that the Americas' were exporting most everything... minerals, timber, fur, tobacco, sugar and so forth. The show mentioned that the people in the America's were the best fed people in the world.

I was always under the impression that the cutting down of the eastern forests was something that happened after the civil war for the most part, not a 100 years or more before that.
 
Was watching the National Geographic channel today, a show on the settling the Americas and the impacts that the European's had on the native tribes as well as general development. The one thing that struck me was the massive cutting of the Eastern US forests for export to Europe which is something I was not aware of. This was going on before 1776. It seemed that the Americas' were exporting most everything... minerals, timber, fur, tobacco, sugar and so forth. The show mentioned that the people in the America's were the best fed people in the world.

I was always under the impression that the cutting down of the eastern forests was something that happened after the civil war for the most part, not a 100 years or more before that.

In colonial times oak and pine were valuable exports to be sent to Europe. Eastern White Pine was especially prized for ship masts.
 
Since I had some time, I have been reading up on the logging industry via on line resources. Theodore Roosevelt started what became the US Forest Service and this was in response to concern over logging the newly created Yellowstone National Park. Gifford Pinchot was the nation's first national forester. Pinchot's family had become quite wealthy from logging and son Gifford turned to conservation. By this time (late 1800's), narrow gauge railways and steam power was widely used in the timber industry which depleted the resource even more quickly. Hence the movement toward regulation in the US.

As mentioned above, White Pine was the dominant tree that drove the early industry in the Eastern US and later westward. Some of the denser hardwoods were used in ship building. A lot of lumber was shipped to England as England had largely been deforested and harvesting trees there became quite regulated. America filled the void. Basically the industry started in New England and moved west with the available resource.

It was said that about 25% of the available wood was used by the railroad industry for fuel, ties, and other construction like bridges. Coal later became the dominant fuel for locomotives.

Another interesting tidbit was white pine or pine was preferred as the hardwoods dulled the blades more quickly at the saw mills.
 
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One of the tidbits of information from the Long Trail Guide (north/south trail through Vermont) is that around the time of the late 1800s, Vermont was only 20% forested. Today it is more than 80% forested.

Not only was timber an export, but the mills in New Hampshire and Massachusetts needed to be fed a constant stream of wool, which meant land was cleared to support sheep. As the American west opened up, sheep and wool moved west.

Here is a nice article on logging in the area where I was skiing.
https://wac.colostate.edu/journal/vol7/taylor.pdf
 
Good read. It mentioned that the hardwoods were largely untouched by the logging operations.
 
Although it covers a wider area than just N.H. and Vt., Stewart Holbrook's The Yankee Exodus describes what the title says. Which is why, walking through New England woods today, you can encounter stone fences running among full-grown trees.

When the Ohio River lands and the Old Northwest (Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Wisconsin, Michigan) opened up in the 1830s and after, many Yankeee farmers, sick to death of farming rocks, pulled up stakes (or simply loaded the wagon) — and left for better land.

The trees reclaimed the fields and pastures, giving us today a totally inaccurate picture of what these areas looked like to the generation that won the Revolution and their sons and daughters.
 
i was so excited when i saw this thread title. the area around the kancamagus highway is beautiful. i mean, truly. thanks for the pics and the commentary. :thumbup:
 
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