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TA DAVSON Slip Joint Knife

T.A.DAVISON

T.A.DAVISON

Slip Joint Knife Maker
Feedback: 106 / 0 / 0
Joined
Oct 24, 2005
Messages
5,477
Folder - #538
Scales - Black G10
Steel - 1/16'' ATS34 - Rc. 60 - 61
This is a linerless knife.
Shield is inlaid & dbl. pinned.

Closed - 3 1/4''
Open- 5 3/4''

Hollow Ground
Cryogenic Quenched
Hand Finished
Nice Walk & Talk
Shipped in a protective case.

You can say I'll take it here.
PayPal only please.
My PayPal addy is.......
crazyknifeblade@yahoo.com

Thanks for the looks.
Have a great evening,

Todd Davison


~~~$250.00~~​
Sold - Thank You!​


538AA.jpg




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Looking good as always Todd. What is the pull like on these linerless folders? Thanks.

Nathan
 
ndeezl said:
Looking good as always Todd. What is the pull like on these linerless folders? Thanks.

Nathan
Click to expand...

Nathan,

The pull on this one is very soft - like a 3?
Most open & close very easy, nice and smooth.

Thanks!

Todd


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Todd, does an easy openning pull equal comes off the open position easier as well ?
roland
 
Todd:

Some of my knife buddies were discussing various knife blade steel and an argument developed as to whether ATS-34 was a "stainless" steel or not. Many of the old timers often say, "I wouldn't have a knife if it didn't rust", which basically means the steel is softer and easier to sharpen with a good stone, than the present day high grade stainless steel blades in so many of the newer manufacturer knives. Can you enlightened us on the actual fact. Also where does D2 fall in the mix as well?

While you are at it, why all the liner less knifes being offered today? Other than weight and thickness, is there another reason?

Tom
 
ruterbegar said:
Todd:

Some of my knife buddies were discussing various knife blade steel and an argument developed as to whether ATS-34 was a "stainless" steel or not. Many of the old timers often say, "I wouldn't have a knife if it didn't rust", which basically means the steel is softer and easier to sharpen with a good stone, than the present day high grade stainless steel blades in so many of the newer manufacturer knives. Can you enlightened us on the actual fact. Also where does D2 fall in the mix as well?

Tom
Click to expand...

Tom,

First I think a blade has to be made right? Proper Grind, Proper Heat Treat, with a Proper Edge put on it?
Sure stainless is going to be harder to sharpen - it's a harder steel than the rusty ones? - :confused::rolleyes:
But it will stay sharper longer. And with it treated in a cryogenic quench, it should even stay sharper even longer?
D2 is a tool steel almost a stainless just not quit there. It is a very good steel to use on knives.
I have used it a lot in the past on fixed blades and on a few folders.
And for your old buddies info? ------- ATS34 WILL RUST just give it enough time?
Stainless just means that - STAINS LESS it will stain.

While you are at it, why all the liner less knifes being offered today? Other than weight and thickness, is there another reason?

All these linerless knives?
I think they make for a great EDC, I like making them and it gives the collator a bit of a break on cost for a custom - being a simpler knife to make.
I will not make them for ever? When I'm done - I'm done? No more?
And I think they are just cool strong little knives? You should try one? :D:thumbup:

Later,

Todd


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Thanks for the information. I am hopeful to get one of the linerless beauties if I can get to the site in time before they get snapped up. I really like the #538 blade profile, in a 3.5" size hopefully.

Is it possible that the linerless models will wear at the blade hinge pin any more than lined models (G10 being softer material than steel) or is there a "washer" to take the stress inside at the G10/blade interface? Wouldn't want the blade to get "loose" from wear.

Thanks again.
Ruterbegar
 
These knives are 3.25 closed, lightweight 1/16 inch thick steel,easy carry
good performing little knives,made for cutting, should last forever used right.
just like any and everything else.

Keep it lightly oiled and should be good for ever?

You know I can tear up a rock if I wanted too?

If you sat there and open and close the knife for ever you would not wear it out - when you start prying with it is when you will have a problem.

Hope this helps?

Todd


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I prefer milled liners as well:thumbup: I have seen a claim on the forum that the washer construction is stronger. Any thoughts?
 
Durwood said:
I prefer milled liners as well:thumbup: I have seen a claim on the forum that the washer construction is stronger. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

I build the knife the way I think is best and they build the knife the way they think is best.
You the collector has to decide which way you think is best - we give you choices?? :):thumbup:

Todd


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Todd: Are your knives numbered sequentially or does the numbering have any Case type meanings? I picked up number 291 which had some nice filework and wondered about the number.

Thanks,
Ruterbegar
 
another lovely one I've missed :D
Keep making them Todd, one day that email will get looked at in time.
 
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