Tanto Sebenza Sharpening Strategy

Modernflame

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I don't like the factory edge on this tanto Sebenza. I want to sharpen it, but I'm struggling with the approach and I'd like to solicit opinions. If the main edge is 20 dps, then it seems that the tanto grind must be fairly similar, as the bevel width is the same near the corner. The tanto edge gets wider with the increasing thickness of the steel.

The factory has applied a lovely belt satin finish to the tanto grind with a very obtuse micro bevel. The appearance is magnificent, but the micro bevel is so obtuse I struggle to measure it. It cuts like a splitting maul. To be clear, when I speak of cutting performance, I'm talking about the part of the blade circled in red. I know the main tip is not designed for fine cutting.

Screenshot 2024-02-01 164331.png


It seems to me the options are:

1) Flat grind the tanto edge at 20 degrees per side to match the straight edge. The result will be better cutting geometry, a coarse diamond finish, and a crisp tanto corner. However, I will loose the belt satin finish.

2) Get over it and follow the factory micro bevel.


How do you guys approach this?

Edited to reduce the wall of text.
 
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You have a lot going on. I recommend you finding something similar for cheap.

Practice this edge before doing it to your nice knife.

If you're confident. No issues there. Get it after it. Consider a 17/20 edge angle.

But, are you sure about a micro bevel? Have you sharpened one in before? Used it and tried it out?

Brother, I like your knife. Buy a beater knife to get the details down.
 
You have a lot going on. I recommend you finding something similar for cheap.

Practice this edge before doing it to your nice knife.

If you're confident. No issues there. Get it after it. Consider a 17/20 edge angle.

But, are you sure about a micro bevel? Have you sharpened one in before? Used it and tried it out?

Brother, I like your knife. Buy a beater knife to get the details down.
Thanks. Not really what I'm asking. Sharpened lots.
 
It does indeed suck. I could probably be more concise in my question. The knife looks good but sucks at cutting. I can improve the cutting at the expense of the finish. I'm asking other tanto sebenza owners how they approach.

The problem is specific to crk because of the belt satin finish.
 
Thats one thing I never really liked about the tanto CRKs. I think they look great but sharpening seems to be a bit of a pain. I think they recommend you send it in everytime which doesn't seem realistic to me. Send your knife in everytime it needs a sharpen. No thanks!

If it were me I'd probably go with option 1 especially if your gonna keep it. but I understand trying to follow the micro best you can especially if you think you'll sell it at some point.
 
I don't like the factory edge on this tanto Sebenza. I want to sharpen it, but I'm struggling with the approach and I'd like to solicit opinions. If the main edge is 20 dps, then it seems that the tanto grind must be fairly similar, as the bevel width is the same near the corner. The tanto edge gets wider with the increasing thickness of the steel.

The factory has applied a lovely belt satin finish to the tanto grind with a very obtuse micro bevel. The appearance is magnificent, but the micro bevel is so obtuse I struggle to measure it. It cuts like a splitting maul. To be clear, when I speak of cutting performance, I'm talking about the part of the blade circled in red. I know the main tip is not designed for fine cutting.

View attachment 2479664


It seems to me the options are:

1) Flat grind the tanto edge at 20 degrees per side to match the straight edge. The result will be better cutting geometry, a coarse diamond finish, and a crisp tanto corner. However, I will loose the belt satin finish.

2) Get over it and follow the factory micro bevel.


How do you guys approach this?

Edited to reduce the wall of text.
I think you told me you use a WE. If you do, this worked for me:

I sharpen all large Inkosis (of any blade type) with the same settings. It happened to work for the Inkosi Tanto as well. Mine may or may not have had a micro bevel, but it does now.

WE recipe = Top holes (blade touching both posts)/37mm between clamp and tip/20DPS on scale (actually 18.3 measured)

Looks like this:

IMG_1241.jpeg

IMG_1240.jpeg

In summary, I don't know what the angle turned out to be on the micro bevel, but I don't change nuthin. I sharpen the primary edge, then the micro bevel. This might offend the purists, but I want a very sharp knife that can be made sharp again with no art or experimenting involved. :)

We have dental dog treats that we give the pups each night. They are very tough to cut in half (longwise) with any CRK, except for the Inkosi Tanto. The spot where the edges meets pushed right through 'em like butter.

Sorry for the crappy pics. Was trying to get close the edges. Lemme know if you want a different sorta picture.

Maybe it'll work for the Sebbie too.
 
I think you told me you use a WE. If you do, this worked for me:

I sharpen all large Inkosis (of any blade type) with the same settings. It happened to work for the Inkosi Tanto as well. Mine may or may not have had a micro bevel, but it does now.

WE recipe = Top holes (blade touching both posts)/37mm between clamp and tip/20DPS on scale (actually 18.3 measured)

Looks like this:

View attachment 2479877

View attachment 2479878

In summary, I don't know what the angle turned out to be on the micro bevel, but I don't change nuthin. I sharpen the primary edge, then the micro bevel. This might offend the purists, but I want a very sharp knife that can be made sharp again with no art or experimenting involved. :)

We have dental dog treats that we give the pups each night. They are very tough to cut in half (longwise) with any CRK, except for the Inkosi Tanto. The spot where the edges meets pushed right through 'em like butter.

Sorry for the crappy pics. Was trying to get close the edges. Lemme know if you want a different sorta picture.

Maybe it'll work for the Sebbie too.
Excellent! Do you use the advanced alignment guide? Like I put drop points at C6 and insingos at C5.
 
Excellent! Do you use the advanced alignment guide? Like I put drop points at C6 and insingos at C5.
Mine is about ten years old and didn't come with the AG. That's why I have the little formula posted above, lol.

That being said, things might turn out a little differently on a newer WE. Mine looks like this:

IMG_1242.jpeg

And no, I'm not the one that ground the clamp all to crap. Never loan out your WE to a relative! :)
 
jacobconroy75 jacobconroy75 That worked a treat! This method is like a compromise between my options above. The microbevel is a bit more acute.

1000002118.jpg

I put the main edge at 20 dps.1000002123.jpg

The resulting angle on the tanto is quite svelte at under 16! My dissatisfaction with the cutting performance must have been due to the factory edge.

1000002124.jpg

The final product is as beautiful as it is functional. I've learned a new respect for this knife!

1000002128.jpg

1000002139.jpg
 
jacobconroy75 jacobconroy75 That worked a treat! This method is like a compromise between my options above. The microbevel is a bit more acute.

View attachment 2483010

I put the main edge at 20 dps.View attachment 2483011

The resulting angle on the tanto is quite svelte at under 16! My dissatisfaction with the cutting performance must have been due to the factory edge.

View attachment 2483012

The final product is as beautiful as it is functional. I've learned a new respect for this knife!

View attachment 2483013

View attachment 2483014
Glad it worked out for you. I was expecting a fight when getting ready to sharpen my Tanto. Turned out to be easy.

I did notice from the pics that your WE clamps seem to be quite a bit wider than my old ones. Measuring from the center of the clamps (meaning the socket the rods pivot from) probably would have been a better choice when I chose to share the formula.

I think it's a cool looking edge!
 
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Glad it worked out for you. I was expecting a fight when getting ready to sharpen my Tanto. Turned out to be easy.

I did notice from the pics that your WE clamps seem to be quite a bit wider than my old ones. Measuring from the center of the clamps (meaning the socket the rods pivot from) probably would have been a better choice when I chose to share the forumula.

I think it's a cool looking edge!
I thought the clamps were the same size? The only meaningful difference would be the split that allows the newer clamp to flex around a distal taper. Could be wrong, but both versions are old now.

Edit: Nevermind. I see you're right.
 
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jacobconroy75 jacobconroy75 That worked a treat! This method is like a compromise between my options above. The microbevel is a bit more acute.

View attachment 2483010

I put the main edge at 20 dps.View attachment 2483011

The resulting angle on the tanto is quite svelte at under 16! My dissatisfaction with the cutting performance must have been due to the factory edge.

View attachment 2483012

The final product is as beautiful as it is functional. I've learned a new respect for this knife!

View attachment 2483013

View attachment 2483014
Great edge photos. Well done. The edge looks sublime.
 
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