The “Can’t leave anything alone” Thread

Have I mentioned lately that I hate show-side recesses? They almost always look bad and stick out like a sore thumb versus the aesthetic flow of a given knife. They can also create hot spots. Even on a knife like this Sokoke, where pretty much everything else is nicely rounded for ergonomic goodness, the recess had horribly crisp edges.

Sure, fill plates are one solution. They are usually not a good solution. So most of the time, I just pass on knives with those features.

Seriously, what was wrong with just having unobtrusive screw holes for lefty clip swaps? I have lots of knives where the deep-carry loop-over sits on top of the scales on either side and guess how many times it has been a problem: never.

So anyway, I got this knife with the intention of trying to remedy the issue. My remedy isn't perfect but I'm wary of over-sanding. I may do a little more to even things up down the road but this is at least passable.

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New Pants for the M4 Benchmade Mini Grip and the M4 Spyderco Para 3!

Both sets of scales were made by RC BladeWorks, and he did a heck of a job!

Black canvas Micarta with a G-carta Mexican Blanket Especial inlay. 😍

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And a set of OD green linen Micarta and OD green linen Micarta pivot collar, with a black canvas Micarta Inlay. 😍

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I finally got this TwoSun sorted out. I really like David Chen's design here.

Like his designs for Petrified Fish, this is a budget model in D2. Also like some of the PF knives, this one benefited from a little scale sanding. Now that I've rounded those crisp edges, this is very comfortable in hand. I also softened the top corner of the lock bar. I'm tempted to add some jimping to the outer edge of the flipper tab but one thing at a time. ;)

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A little preview of tomorrow's carry. I did all the work I feel like doing to this Sencut Mims. I don't have the action exactly where I want it but we'll see how it breaks in.

I refinished the wood scales, deleted the lock-bar jimping that sat uncomfortably forward of the scale edge, chamfered the new lock-bar edge and did a little ergonomic housekeeping in that area, and added Skiff bearings.

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Chronovore Chronovore I have not been following this knife closely. It looks really great though, super comfortable, and a design I can sink my teeth into, all but the tip up carry and choil. Would you be kind enough to quickly restate all the changes you made?
 
Chronovore Chronovore I have not been following this knife closely. It looks really great though, super comfortable, and a design I can sink my teeth into, all but the tip up carry and choil. Would you be kind enough to quickly restate all the changes you made?

Sure. I did a scale swap with another version to get this combination. I sanded the scales, rounding the top of the outside scale edges and any corners. (The outer surface along the perimeter was left intact below the rounded edge in order to preserve scale alignment.) I did a super quick and lazy progression out to 1000 grit. Then I waxed them with Howard's Wax-It-All (food safe).

I ground off the lock-bar jimping, which used to extend past the scale edge. Then I laid in a little bevel for finger contact. I did the bulk removal with a diamond Dremel bit and then finished by hand. I also smoothed over the exposed edge and corners of the lock bar and the liner above it. I did a similarly quick progression in this section to either 400 or 600 grit.

I also installed Skiff Rocket Glide Rings, which I tend to put in every knife I can. :)
 
So many "ruined" knives...........so many 😭

Question: If you customize a knife that comes from the factory line and put the logo of the same manufacturer's "premium" line on it, is it a counterfeit product or not?
 
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