The CPM 3V Backpacker Hatchet - Development Phase

[Daniel Fairly Knives]

Daniel- I totally trust your knife-stuff intellect.

Thanks Rolf!

Daniel, I think you could get away with just flattening out the bit just a very tiny amount, just on the heel. This wil effectively "rotate" the head up and keep the style you have designed in. If you want to read up on edge geometries that work, search for european style axe geometry. They have flat cheeks, where american style has raised cheeks. I'll try to find some links for you, I have them somewere.


-X

Sounds good, I will try that. I looked up European vs American geometries and was happy to find a ton of information, mine would be European style by the sounds of it.

I don't like cord wrap on hatchets. I'd like to see some G-10 or micarta handles or no handles at all.

I really appreciate the honest input! The design started out smaller and I had planned on 1/8" steel but thought it sounded a bit light to really chop well... I kept the wrap option but think scales are a must, at least on some of them.

I think what I will do is make a version with scales and one without.

~$425 with scales - I think blasted G10 would be rocking for texture and durability

The scales would go about halfways up the handle and be attached with flared tube through the holes drawn in. (maybe more holes for tube though... easy to do) I don't like scales that run up to the head as they will bind in wood.

I have used a hatchet way too much, lol I want a really good one for breaking down firewood here! It is a design I have a lot of experience with; for heavy duty use it need a full grip.

I have to go with this. ^

Me too, good call guys! I still consider a smaller pack hatchet, maybe 1/8" thick and a foot tall for the smaller stuff with a wrap. Maybe later... I also will be making the breacher tomahawk later this year, it is a completely different design and will be heavy duty as can be.

 

[fast14riot]

Yep, yours would be like the European style. Personally, I think a shorter scandi grind would be best, to minimize the surface area in contact with the wood during a cut, this will eliminate sticking. Long shallow grinds will stick more. This hatchette combined with a wood wedge or two will really be able to split good size billets. Bucking logs is a different story, hard to do with a short handled axe no matter what the geometry is. I think anything up to the width of the bit in diameter is all that should be considered for general use with a hatchette. 3" bit, 3" limb. Of course bigger is possible, but will require more effort.


So far so good, though!

-X

 

[scouter27]

I only skimmed the thread, but here's my input:

Give it a tapered tang. Going from .25" at the tip to .125 at the pommel should end at about the same weight with a better distribution of mass.

It appears the handle stops at less than two-thirds coverage. Move it all the way up. This will allow the user to choke up with a more comfortable grip.

It needs more of a poll in my opinion, but I prefer 'hawks to hatchets anyway...

 

[Daniel Fairly Knives]

Thanks guys!

I really appreciate the input. I think I'll work more on my Breacher Hawk design in a thicker steel instead and see what everyone thinks.