The *Unofficial* Fiddleback maintenence, care, optimization, and improvement thread!

Great to hear! It can be a great tool once you dial it in. Some knives are more challenging than others.
 
Ok Lol I now have a headache! Too much info to Absorb :) someone had mentioned the work sharp in a previous post but I didn't see any results! For some reason I couldn't sharpen a knife of my life depended on it! I know it has to be my technique or something fairly simple. But what's everyone opinion of the Worksharp? I've tinkered with it some at Sportsman's warehouse but never went all in on one! I've heard they remove wayyyyyy to much material but again I don't know! Thanks
B
 
In my expierence it's a fast way to mess up a knife if you don't know what you are doing
 
I really like my Worksharp. I strop to sharpen, but I get to the point where I can't seem to get a great edge with the strops. A minute on the Worksharp and they strop up beautifully! It is a way to take metal off the blade, just like any other system including the KTMs. You don't have to use the courser belts or take that many passes if the blade isn't damaged.
 
VANCE said:
In my expierence it's a fast way to mess up a knife if you don't know what you are doing
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It definitely has a fairly steep learning curve but when you get it right it does a great job. I use one on my kitchen knives, tools, and some of my folders. It's like every other sharpening method, it takes time to learn how to use it. However, I do agree with Vance, if you screw up, it's a really fast way to ruin a knife.
 
Put a mirror edge on my PK today with the edge pro. Slices like a champ.
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Just a bump to ask what you long term storage guys are using for corrosion protection. Was out in the garage and ran across a 2013 blade forums traditional knife blade that had been in the WD40 corrosion preventative spray (different from WD 40) for the last year or so and it looked Ok. I think I'm about to do a ren wax, sentry combo on the collection that is out for display.
Here's how they are currently mostly stored under my bed; the rest are on a shelf.

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Any ideas on what works better or best
 
I use mineral oil, ballistol, Renaissance wax whichever is handy. Ren wax mainly for long term storage.
Never had rust issues. With users mainly wash, wipe and let air dry for a few minutes.
 
For protection on my blades and handles I use Boos Blocks Board Cream. A tiny bit goes a loooooooog way and I've never noticed any type of residue buildup on the blade or handles. The formula is food grade mineral oil with a touch of beeswax, which makes the product not only last longer, but it is 100% good to go when using your knives for food prep.
 
LaRueOBR556 said:
My Stropman 4-Stroke showed up last night. It was well worth the month wait
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LaRue,
Thanks for the "bump" on this thread! I didn't know it existed and hadn't ventured across it yet in my searches.

xxwjtxx said:
Hey All,
I decided to start this thread out of my love for maintaining, optimizing, fixing, and improving my edged tools. As the title states, the intended purpose of this thread is to provide a medium for general discussion pertaining to care, maintenance, and personalized optimization of Fiddleback Forge knives.

...

With that said, cheers & I hope that something is learned from both my own and the community’s contributions to this thread :thumbup:
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xxwjtxx,
Awesome friggen thread and info, especially for someone new to Fiddlebacks and convex grinds. Thanks! (yes, I will take the "use with discretion" seriously)
 
Warrior108 said:
LaRue,
Thanks for the "bump" on this thread! I didn't know it existed and hadn't ventured across it yet in my searches.



xxwjtxx,
Awesome friggen thread and info, especially for someone new to Fiddlebacks and convex grinds. Thanks! (yes, I will take the "use with discretion" seriously)
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Enjoy dude, I owe this thread some serious updates!
 
After evaluating khukuris in storage, my experience is that renwax will protect against corrosion better than mineral oil
 
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