Titanium Pry Bar and Marlinspike for sale - Forum Special!

Daniel Fairly Knives

Daniel Fairly Knives

Full Time Knifemaker
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Jan 9, 2011
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Here are a couple of handy Titanium tools I finished up a little while ago. Both are super strong and ultra lightweight rust free Titanium. I textured and rounded the Ti for grip and comfort, they have an orange peel texture and "moon craters." Both of these tools come in handy all the time and weigh almost nothing, they are under an ounce each! They both come with a kydex teklok compatible pocket/necker sheath.

The Marlinspike comes in handy all the time when working with line, it is great for un-doing knots and pushing rope, the end is rounded so you won't gouge anything. I carbidized the spine for extra grip.

The prybar has a thinner edge for getting it into tighter spots but is not sharp, I can sharpen it for free if you prefer it that way. The .090 thick Ti it is made from can handle some decent prying, it is super strong and still feather light.

.090 6al4v Titanium
Kydex neck/pocket sheath - teklok compatible
100% handmade in the USA

Prybar - 4" long
Marlinspike - 5" long

Sold.

Prybar

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Marlinspike

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Mine draw traffic,every time I use 'em.

Nobody can freakinBelieve how ultralight they are.

Both are seeing daily use,along with my Ti Wharnie.

And everybody needs a marlinspike....unbelievably useful.Unless you own paracord or line that never tangles...

~Gnarly
 
Dang, here I am trying to be a good boy. Trying to save some money, hold off buying anything for a few weeks.
Now you go and put up these items from your titanium "Gnarly Line" .
 
Gnarly said:
Mine draw traffic,every time I use 'em.

Nobody can freakinBelieve how ultralight they are.

Both are seeing daily use,along with my Ti Wharnie.

And everybody needs a marlinspike....unbelievably useful.Unless you own paracord or line that never tangles...

~Gnarly
Click to expand...

Very nice! I am glad they are getting some good use!

IMWILSON said:
Dang, here I am trying to be a good boy. Trying to save some money, hold off buying anything for a few weeks.
Now you go and put up these items from your titanium "Gnarly Line" .
Click to expand...

I make it tough!
 
Daniel, anyway you could make a more traditional spike out of Ti (ie with more of a point to it)?

I am expected from time to time to work with everything from wire to Manila, from braided to traditional 3 strand rope. The end needs to be fine enough to fit in the end of a small shackle but strong enough to not break when tightening said shackle (or loosening it). (I don't like standard shackle openers (a slot wider at one end than the other) as they don't fit into tight corners and also tend not to fit when you need them the most.

Maybe Ti is the wrong material to use? I have a forged one I got a while back, but everytime I go to use it I can see it slowly wearing away... the spike isn't as hard as it should be.
 
awc said:
Daniel, anyway you could make a more traditional spike out of Ti (ie with more of a point to it)?

I am expected from time to time to work with everything from wire to Manila, from braided to traditional 3 strand rope. The end needs to be fine enough to fit in the end of a small shackle but strong enough to not break when tightening said shackle (or loosening it). (I don't like standard shackle openers (a slot wider at one end than the other) as they don't fit into tight corners and also tend not to fit when you need them the most.

Maybe Ti is the wrong material to use? I have a forged one I got a while back, but everytime I go to use it I can see it slowly wearing away... the spike isn't as hard as it should be.
Click to expand...

Sounds good, I may make some more.
 
awc might benefit by having you carbidize his forged 'spike.

The more I use my DFK Ti,the better I like it.
The marlinspike actually works as well or better than any of my factory round 'spikes....hard to explain,but the 'humps' in the backside actually give more leverage.

~Gnarly
 
I'm not sure carbidizing would help or work on Stainless steel.

I'll put up a few pics of my marlin spikes later
 
awc said:
I'm not sure carbidizing would help or work on Stainless steel.

I'll put up a few pics of my marlin spikes later
Click to expand...

The more chromium the harder they are to carbidize, I read that some stainless won't carbidize. I have tried one ss knife so far and it worked.

Post some pics that would be cool!

I'm thinking some solid 1/4" Ti rod would make a nice marlinspike. The wear resistance isn't as good as steel so the Ti is more for someone who is counting every ounce. With carbide applied it might even be better than steel. It will never rust, even stainless will rust easily in the right conditions.
 
Here are my two Marlin spikes. I used to have a Wichard one, but it was misplaced or stolen some place between British Columbia and Ontario. I've added something familiar for size comparison ;) (oh yeah, it came in the mail last week. Thanks Dan!)
I left the other knife in it's sheath as it's not in great condition (read terrible) and I'm embarrassed to show it off. (Green River deck knife by J. Nowill and Sons). The spike it came with (right below the sheath) is amazing at 3/8" in diameter it's thick enough to be comfortable in hand and give enough leverage to do tough work. The one below it is the stainless spike I referred to earlier. In the closeup you can see how it is getting gouged through non-abusive use. The tip is so rough I won't use it near any slippery rope (read synthetic and braided) as it just pulls the strands apart. I've shown a closeup of the other spikes tip for comparison. Keep in mind the Older better spike is over 50 years old and I used it rather extensively 2 years ago on a 90 year old 104 foot Marconi rigged ketch.

Dan my suggestion is to make a round spike out of 3/8" minimum. Smaller than that and it will tend to "cut" into the hand when using large amounts of force. Longer is better as well, but not too long ;) 6-8 inches is a good length where 8 starts to become loo long and 6 too short (mine are 7 1/2 and 6 1/2 respectively).

I've never handled anything that was carbidized, so I have no idea if that would be too much traction on a marlin spike. Believe it or not, the grooves on the older spike are to be used as a honing steel, and actually reduce the grip on the spike in the horizontal direction. All that being said I'm sure carbidization would be a good thing for a spike, just not all the way down to the tip

I know titanium can be fairly expensive, so if you are interested in doing such a project (a round titanium marlin spike) let me know and I'll be sure to purchase one.

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I'll be sure to let you know if I make any.

Cool marlinspikes and knives. :D I bet that older marlinspike is mild steel, that would explain the wear.

Thanks for the suggestions, 3/8" does sound way better.
 
Daniel, I ended up here after searching for a marlin spike. I am looking for something Ti, about 7.5" long with a round point and consistent diameter for the first 1" and then tapering out to 3/4" at the very end. I need it to be a spike with a decent amount of material on the handle end as I have big mits. Working end diameter about 1/16", give or take. It needs to be strong as it will get used extensively on used rope that has been pulled to failure multiple times, and the cover is darn tight.

I tried sending a PM, but couldnt find a way to get it done. Let me know if this is doable. krissplicing@att.net

Kris
 
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