Titanium Prybars and Marlin Spikes

Daniel Fairly Knives

Daniel Fairly Knives

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Check 'em out!

The marlinspikes are for undoing knots and that type of thing and are not sharp. The underside of the handle is rounded and all edges are chamfered and textured for grip. they are a prototype design...

The 2 prybars are also .090 Titanium and have the same finish but are really sharp! Chisel ground finished with a steep microbevel. I can dull them for a more traditional prybar.

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009an.jpg


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Is the carbidizer gonna change the color much?
Can you describe it as a hamon? or visible coating? or detail line?

Love the 'spikes!

.... and anybody who camps/hikes/carries a piece of line/rappels/hunts out of a deer stand/sails/makes paracord stuff/listens to rawk & roll/ breathes oxygen & walks upright needs one each, in their FMTH! bag ,EDC kit,truck bag or backpack.

Would like a long bar,slightly blunted/carbidized...and a shorter/sharp carbidized.
 
Gnarly said:
Is the carbidizer gonna change the color much?
Can you describe it as a hamon? or visible coating? or detail line?

Love the 'spikes!

.... and anybody who camps/hikes/carries a piece of line/rappels/hunts out of a deer stand/sails/makes paracord stuff/listens to rawk & roll/ breathes oxygen & walks upright needs one each, in their FMTH! bag ,EDC kit,truck bag or backpack.

Would like a long bar,slightly blunted/carbidized...and a shorter/sharp carbidized.
Click to expand...

The carbidizer will actually apply carbide into the metal... hard to describe how it looks, I should find some photos or something... it is a visible coating. :D It can resemble a hamon but is a different process.

This link describes the process.
http://www.usaknifemaker.com/rocklin-knifemakers-model-380-akm-carbidizer-p-3294.html

Photos...
http://www.google.com/search?q=carb...a=X&oi=mode_link&ct=mode&cd=2&ved=0CCoQ_AUoAQ
 
The spikes look awesome, but where's the beer opener on the other end?! They look like they would trip J-lock shackels just fine. Don't know how well a flat spike would do at splicing wire to rope or wire to wire but not many people do that these days.


-Xander
 
fast14riot said:
The spikes look awesome, but where's the beer opener on the other end?! They look like they would trip J-lock shackels just fine. Don't know how well a flat spike would do at splicing wire to rope or wire to wire but not many people do that these days.


-Xander
Click to expand...

Last night I told my wife Titanium would make the perfect bottle opener! My first knife like object has a shackle opener and a bottle opener/harpoon tip!

I was hoping the spacing would work well with a J shackle. It is not traditional that's for sure! I may try some round ones too, need to buy the stock for one. I rounded the tip a little. My brother in law who has spent a lot of time on boats (he is a captain actually) told me purists wouldn't like it but it looked like a really useful design, he really liked the swell in the shank.

I'm glad you're liking it and I am liking the suggestions also, thanks Xander!
 
Yea, the carbidizer will do amazing things to what a titanium blade can do. Since Ti by itself doesn't hold an edge well, the carbided cutting edge does the work with an HRC of around 80. Ban Tang has a couple of knives done that way, and the effect he has looks like frost on the blade where the carbide is applied.

don't want to post a pic here, since it's Ban's own picture, but here's a link to it:

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5169/5345030977_ff930a662b_b.jpg
 
Daniel Fairly Knives said:
Last night I told my wife Titanium would make the perfect bottle opener! My first knife like object has a shackle opener and a bottle opener/harpoon tip!

I was hoping the spacing would work well with a J shackle. It is not traditional that's for sure! I may try some round ones too, need to buy the stock for one. I rounded the tip a little. My brother in law who has spent a lot of time on boats (he is a captain actually) told me purists wouldn't like it but it looked like a really useful design, he really liked the swell in the shank.

I'm glad you're liking it and I am liking the suggestions also, thanks Xander!
Click to expand...

Yeah,the purists wouldn't be caught dead without their Myerchin: http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/ancientivories_2159_13160445

And....that's nice....but not my style.

And, I'd like to add: you can't run fast enough to give me a factory production knife OR marlinspike,if I have the option of working with a USA knifemaker to get a Custom,made by a friend!
 
gooeytek said:
Yea, the carbidizer will do amazing things to what a titanium blade can do. Since Ti by itself doesn't hold an edge well, the carbided cutting edge does the work with an HRC of around 80. Ban Tang has a couple of knives done that way, and the effect he has looks like frost on the blade where the carbide is applied.

don't want to post a pic here, since it's Ban's own picture, but here's a link to it:

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5169/5345030977_ff930a662b_b.jpg
Click to expand...

Awesome description, it is a frosty look!
 
Gnarly said:
And, I'd like to add: you can't run fast enough to give me a factory production knife OR marlinspike,if I have the option of working with a USA knifemaker to get a Custom,made by a friend!
Click to expand...

:thumbup::thumbup:
 
Gnarly said:
Yeah,the purists wouldn't be caught dead without their Myerchin: http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/ancientivories_2159_13160445
Click to expand...

That Myerchin is a nice piece, but that is for newbs and lazy knife users. Real purists will never use a serrated edge knife. A good sharp plain edge will cut much cleaner. If you need to cut bigger line, just give a good whack on the spine. I plan on making my own in a traditional style soon with a matching shackle spike. Now that I think about it I might have just found my niche for collecting! I should get a set from Daniel as soon as I get some regular income.

Daniel, I do race professionally if you want someone to do a bit of product testing and development <hint hint>. I can see a nice specific market for those spikes. My last shackel spike cost me $55 and it is just aluminum rod with a couple steps turned down! I have not seen any custom spikes before.


-Xander
 
fast14riot said:
. I can see a nice specific market for those spikes. My last shackel spike cost me $55 and it is just aluminum rod with a couple steps turned down! I have not seen any custom spikes before.


-Xander
Click to expand...

Yeah...and that's a cryin'Ass shame,IMO! You can tell if a man is a sailor or a rigger,just by whether or not he owns at least one decent marlinspike.Just recently,I bought a custom from peter r, an Integral in 0-1. He has agreed to make me a matching marlinspike.

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Well to my defense, it was before I was into custom knives or making knives. I lost a good one overboard this year, a low serial numbered myerchin, and haven't had a chance to replace it yet. I have back ups, but that one was knice. I have been a rigger almost as long as I have been a sailor, and been through many different spikes. I have developed some good techniques for splicing that doesn't use a spike, but that doesn't mean I will ever stop carrying one.

Nice knife by the way. I would love to see the spike when it gets done.


-Xander
 
fast14riot,

I meant no offense; it's been ages since I was called on to splice lines....and the knife you lost overboard cost 30X what I used for years of rigging....you'll be bound to laugh....'twas a $15 S&W Hawkbill w/ Marlinspike,and the 'bail' that locked it!

And I'll be happy to share the pix of the peter r Integral & 'spike,when it's finished.
I should hasten to add: that picture was taken before HT and final finishing.
Somewhere on this laptop,I have a picture of it, afterwards.
It will be here any day now.

~Gnarly
 
Last edited:
Hey no offense taken! Nuance is lost in the cold hard text we comunicate through. I have had several folding spike knives over the years, they have their place, but when doing rigging at the bench they just done quite cut it. A myerchin or buck maybe, but many of the cheaper ones will not do. That peter r integral looks like it will serve you quite well for years to come. I love the B&T style neck.


-Xander
 
I'm listening! :D Great stuff here, giving me more ideas.
 
bottle opener/prybar on one end, and a sharpened kiridashi-type edge on the other.
a little bit of a kydex sheath that can cover either end depending on which one you're using, which doubles as some type of handle.
I gather the titanium piece is going to be somewhat on the thin side, right?
 
Nah, no sharp edges on a spike. Not for shackel spikes anyways. When I climb out to the end of a 17' spinnaker pole to do a peel, I don't want to accidently catch my changing stop with the sharp edge. I only have one hand to trip the old guy and don't hav time to make sure a cover is on the blade. I carry a knife to cut when I need it, and a spike when I need it. Trying to combine the two hasn't proved to be successful over the years. Now a bottle opener is a great idea. Maybe a pry bar end as well, but I don't think I would ever use it.


Lots of features I would like o see in a spike.

-Xander
 
I was describing the prybar. The marlinspike/marline spike is better as a standalone, I agree.
 
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