To Choil, Or Not To Choil…

[Trout Hound]

Howdy Y'all,

I have a Case 6318 in CV that is usually my EDC. The sheepsfoot blade on this particular knife did not have a very deep sharpening choil ground from the factory, and, over time, I have managed to sharpen the blade enough that the choil is now gone. There is still plenty of good, thin blade stock, so the blade is far from retirement. Here's my question:

I absolutely cannot abide seeing a blade, especially a sheepsfoot, that has a recurve sharpened into the heel. Call it OCD, or whatever you want, but I refuse to run my knives that way. I am being as vigilant as I can to sharpen all the way down to the ricasso, but I'm tempted to use a triangle needle file and make a new choil. I've never done that before, so I'd like some recommendations about whether or not it's a good idea. I'm also wondering if I will end up with ugly burrs on the faces of the blade, and how difficult those may be to clean up.

Any and all advice is welcome. Thanks!!!

 

[TickTock]

I would def. do it but it will probably need to be some sort of diamond file, a regular file may skate across the metal and not do anything.

 

[ecallahan]

I use a dremel with a small cutoff wheel. It takes seconds to shape a small sharpening notch. I re-establish the notch as needed with future sharpening.

I've tried small triangle files but I do a better and much quicker job with the cutoff wheel.

 

[annr]

I use a dremel with a small cutoff wheel. It takes seconds to shape a small sharpening notch. I re-establish the notch as needed with future sharpening.

I've tried small triangle files but I do a better and much quicker job with the cutoff wheel.

I had a dentist/oral surgeon friend of mine try this on one of my knives— I thought it would be easy, go fast, etc., especially since he was an expert with drills.

We tried my dremel bits, then switched to a carbide bit he uses on teeth. This was so SLOW. Also, we irrigated it to keep the temps down on the steel. Maybe my blade was a lot thicker?

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

I normally don't like choils or 'sharpening notches' on blades, if only because they invariably get caught or snagged when cutting string or paper, etc. BUT, I'd make an exception for a sheepfoot blade, as I find in my own uses, I don't generally cut much of anything that far back in the blade's edge; I use the tip of the sheepfoot for most tasks, like opening boxes or clamshell packaging, or scribing cutting lines in wood, etc.

CV isn't that hard to grind or shape, even with a file. If you have a steady and confident hand, the cutoff wheel used on a Dremel should work easily. A small-diameter cutting burr/drum bit, as made for a Dremel, could also be used in a drill press, again IF you have the skill and steady hand for it (and a drill press). But, lacking the Dremel or drill press, or (perhaps) the ability to use them skillfully and safely, the triangle file can get it done. A diamond needle file could do it as well. You could also fold some AlOx/SiC sandpaper around the edge of a piece of sheet stock steel or a small metal nail file or similar device, and do it that way (and finer-grit SiC sandpaper will do a very nice job cleaning up burrs, BTW). It'll take longer by hand than with a motorized device, but there's no need to rush such a job anyway.


David

 

[ecallahan]

I had a dentist/oral surgeon friend of mine try this on one of my knives— I thought it would be easy, go fast, etc., especially since he was an expert with drills.

We tried my dremel bits, then switched to a carbide bit he uses on teeth. This was so SLOW. Also, we irrigated it to keep the temps down on the steel. Maybe my blade was a lot thicker?

I have used the cutoff wheel on many steels and blades, but for the most part on my traditional knives. I don't put a large choil on, more of a smaller notch. I tried the smaller cutting bur on the dremel but it was hard to control and I'm not looking for a large choil.

 

[annr]

I have used the cutoff wheel on many steels and blades, but for the most part on my traditional knives. I don't put a large choil on, more of a smaller notch. I tried the smaller cutting bur on the dremel but it was hard to control and I'm not looking for a large choil.

Thanks. Did you ever post a pic? I suspect that the area near heel of my blade (fixed straight edge) was either thicker, harder, or both — or we were using the wrong wheel/bit.

 

[Twindog]

I put a sharpening choil on my ZT 0804CF with a Dremel (cone stone attachment). It took only a minute, and it makes sharpening cleaner and easier.

 

[ecallahan]

Thanks. Did you ever post a pic? I suspect that the area near heel of my blade (fixed straight edge) was either thicker, harder, or both — or we were using the wrong wheel/bit.

I keep an old Robeson at work. It had a recurve area on the main blade whenI received it. Here are the main and pen blades with the 'notches' I put on with the cutoff. Just enough so I can sharpen to the back of the blade.

I have other examples at home.

 

[annr]

I keep an old Robeson at work. It had a recurve area on the main blade whenI received it. Here are the main and pen blades with the 'notches' I put on with the cutoff. Just enough so I can sharpen to the back of the blade.

View attachment 722722

View attachment 722722

Thanks. That helps a lot.

I was dealing with a double hollow ground blade that was several x thicker where I attempted the reduction. Mine was a partial success with the deemed and I ended up finishing by hand to keep blade geometry suited to my needs.

 

[DavidHoback]

Everyone is confusing the term "choil" & "notch". They are not the same thing. The choil is the unsharpened bit where the blade & handle meet. A "sharpening", or Spanish Notch, is often cut into the choil. And many knives showcase a FINGER CHOIL.

Sorry, just have a pet peeve with incorrectly labeling things. Much the same way Carter is constantly calling the EDGE of the knife, the PRIMARY! It's like nails on a chalkboard to me, LOL. And yes I would encourage it. I put a Spanish Notch into many of the blades I make. I also use a cutoff wheel for it.

 

[Trout Hound]

From the A. G. Russell Knife Encyclopedia:

Choil
The cut away area between the edge and the tang of a pocket knife blade and between the edge and the guard of a straight knife. The choil may or may not have enough space for a finger, it's true purpose is to allow the edge to be sharpened all the way to the tang in a pocket knife and to the end of the edge in others. Any reference of choil and finger space or choil and handle is improper.

 

[Chris "Anagarika"]

I use diamond file. More controllable.
Start first with the triangle so it has less chance of skipping, then deepen with the round file.
Good explanation here:

Credit to member: unit.

 

[Vinifera]

Easily accomplished with the corner of a Spyderco medium triangle rod although a diamond file is quicker. I routinely grind a sharpening notch on Spyderco knifes and have done so on Case knives and any others which don't have one.