To coat or not to coat...
- Thread starter Graybird
- Start date
The only time I ever have a coated blade is if I buy one that already has a black coating on it. I never coat or put any type of coating or finish on any of my blades.
The only coatings I've ever been impressed with were the ones that BUCK knives was using back in the late 90s/early 2000s when they had the line of knives that had that ion fusion coating. But those were done by the factory and they were pretty much part of the steel itself.
Actually I tend to like stonewashed finishes or those finishes that they do with chemicals that give an appearance of being stonewashed. Other than that I mentioned I really don't care for coatings all that much. Now I'm not opposed to coatings if there is a real reason for it other than just looks.
The only coatings I've ever been impressed with were the ones that BUCK knives was using back in the late 90s/early 2000s when they had the line of knives that had that ion fusion coating. But those were done by the factory and they were pretty much part of the steel itself.
Actually I tend to like stonewashed finishes or those finishes that they do with chemicals that give an appearance of being stonewashed. Other than that I mentioned I really don't care for coatings all that much. Now I'm not opposed to coatings if there is a real reason for it other than just looks.
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Polished cuts best. I use all mine so they don't stay looking great very long (scratches).
Next I like grit blasted. It might promote rust for some but I live where it is high and dry 7,000 elevation in the Colorado high desert (been raining everyday this and last week but that is very rare). Cold Steel's XHP grit blasted I like quite a lot.
Stone washed is good and practical but it tends to just remind me of a galvanized heater duct or chain link fence post so not my fav even though it is very, very practical.
Least fav is rough ground (too much friction in the cut) and I love to look at DLC but it too adds friction.
OH . . .OH . . . OH ! ! ! and there are etched blades with company logos or art where they cover the whole blade . . . that's some cool stuff. I enjoy my Boker slippies that are all etched. Another fave for SURE.
David Martin
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Buck does a Ti nitride coating and those knives are offered through Cabela's. It is a very tough coating and does not flake or wear off. I have
used these knives for years and like it. DM
used these knives for years and like it. DM
On all folders and on short fixed blades less than 5 inches that I use for utility tasks and food prep, I am pretty consistent: stainless steel, no coatings. I like the smooth stainless finishes whether satin, matte, or stonewashed, and they are easy to keep clean and generally also don't show uneven wear and scuff marks as much. I agree with OP, the finishes do LOOK really great in some cases, but I generally avoid them. Recent example: the TRC Knives K1-fuller blade, discussed in another thread, has a beautiful jet black DLC finish that is supposed to be very good. If I did get a finish, I would get a black DLC finish of some type, and it would probably be that very knife. Go check it out, it is a work of art.
On larger fixed blades I use for heavy work (like my ESEE Junglas, Ratmandu, and Schrade SCHF52), I am also pretty consistent: carbon steel, coatings. These knives are mostly used for heavy tasks, rarely used for food prep. The coatings on the carbon steel do scuff up eventually, but they really do help minimize formation of rust on the blades and ease maintenance a bit. I have not yet gone the path that some here in the forum do, of intentionally removing all these coatings, and then allowing or even causing a patina to form.
On larger fixed blades I use for heavy work (like my ESEE Junglas, Ratmandu, and Schrade SCHF52), I am also pretty consistent: carbon steel, coatings. These knives are mostly used for heavy tasks, rarely used for food prep. The coatings on the carbon steel do scuff up eventually, but they really do help minimize formation of rust on the blades and ease maintenance a bit. I have not yet gone the path that some here in the forum do, of intentionally removing all these coatings, and then allowing or even causing a patina to form.
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I like either, not attached to a coated or non-coated knife myself - but then again I can refinish them LOL. The thing is, anything WILL scratch (including bare metal - actually satin <220 grit and up> finishes are one of the easiest to scratch than any other finish imho).
For regular every day chores I believe something like Cerakote would work fine (cardboard, rope, zip ties, food prep, etc). But for hard use (wood processing, carpet, etc) I would go w/ a PVD coating like DLC or another (DLC is a type of PVD). And I should also say this, all DLC coatings are not equaled.
I recently underwent an 8 month process of finding a PVD/DLC coating to go with to offer as a coating service. I tested around 10 different DLC coatings and some were TERRIBLE (Richter's Titankote C12 comes to mind). I ended up going with a different PVD that showed extremely similar properties but was a top performer with the top DLC I tested (that had other issues).
If you would like to see testing pics just lmk would be happy to post a few =)
For regular every day chores I believe something like Cerakote would work fine (cardboard, rope, zip ties, food prep, etc). But for hard use (wood processing, carpet, etc) I would go w/ a PVD coating like DLC or another (DLC is a type of PVD). And I should also say this, all DLC coatings are not equaled.
I recently underwent an 8 month process of finding a PVD/DLC coating to go with to offer as a coating service. I tested around 10 different DLC coatings and some were TERRIBLE (Richter's Titankote C12 comes to mind). I ended up going with a different PVD that showed extremely similar properties but was a top performer with the top DLC I tested (that had other issues).
If you would like to see testing pics just lmk would be happy to post a few =)