Tri-ad slop fix?

M

mcflyfyter

Joined
Jul 14, 2011
Messages
102
I am new to cold steel with this recon 1 I picked up a few months ago. I admit that I didn't care for it much at first, but I have come to terms, and I now appreciate it for what it is. My only real issue now is the lock slop. It isn't much, maybe a little over a 32nd of an inch at the tip. If I press real hard on the lock I can usually get a solid lock. Is this normal, or did I get the only triad that is loose?
 
Sounds normal. Those locks like to be flicked with authority which sets the lock deep. It should sink deeper as it wears in. A clever design feature I instantly appreciated. If you don't trust it, don't risk failure. Just contact CS and keep your fingers crossed.
 
I have flicked it as hard as I can, but the triad just doesn't want to lock tight. I have spine wacked it on a plastic jug twice as hard as it takes for my ZT to fail, and it doesn't budge. I have 100% confidence in it. It just sucks when someone wants to check it out. I get the cold steel look, then a sloppy lock and a chuckle. Truth be told, I would have done the same thing a year ago. Maybe I need to beat the crap out of it to seat the wedge?
 
For the record, this XHP is pretty incredible. Benchmade' M4 holds an edge 2 to 3 times longer, but the XHP is 10 times easier to sharpen. I haven't been to hard on the elmax yet, but the bar is set high for a user blade.
 
Is it new or used? If new, may want to just return it for a new one. If used, and you feel comfortable doing it, could take it apart to check it out and see if there is anything obvious. I had a similar issue with a Mini Recon I that I got used off eBay...if I really flicked it hard it was OK, but if not it wouldn't always lock up tight. Took it apart and bent the lock spring a bit to put more tension on the lock bar...was fine after that.
 
IIRC there was a similar post where the knife had been disassembled and the lock bar pin and blade stop pin were switched.I also might be misremembering.Just a thought.
 
I would vote that the lock bar pin and stop pin are switched. If you feel comfortable, that's what I would be checking.
 
Did you baton through a frozen chunk of live oak with it or something? I have never seen a tri-ad with blade play.
 
It seems to be tightening up a little after probably 60 to 80 days of carry. It usually locks up tight now if I open it slowly, but still has a decent tick if i flip it hard. Seems kinda backwards to me, but I'm ok with it getting tighter over time. I really don't like the cold steel name, or the looks, or the open/close procedure, or the pocket clip. Somehow it has still been in my pocket more often than not. I guess cold steel stumble on a winning combo. These things wouldnt have come from the factory with the pins switched, would they?
 
mcflyfyter said:
It seems to be tightening up a little after probably 60 to 80 days of carry. It usually locks up tight now if I open it slowly, but still has a decent tick if i flip it hard. Seems kinda backwards to me, but I'm ok with it getting tighter over time. I really don't like the cold steel name, or the looks, or the open/close procedure, or the pocket clip. Somehow it has still been in my pocket more often than not. I guess cold steel stumble on a winning combo. These things wouldnt have come from the factory with the pins switched, would they?
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Why dont you just go buy a different knife since you dont like just about everything about it. Maybe a liner or frame lock so in a couple years use you can post about how much the lock bar has worn out, how it's reached 100% lockup and how it has vertical play? Obviously your recon has a tiny bit of play vertically that will probably wear in with use, so what's the big fuss? Its an inexpensive knife, will stand up to more use and abuse than a $1000 custom frame lock folder and can be replaced any time for cheap. I just dont get what fuss is about. None of my recons have play anywhere, but there are some that do just cos of factory tolerances here and there. Just use the knife and enjoy it?
 
I have had a couple of Triads that needed a break-in period where the lock would only set if snapped with force. If the first Triad I got had been like that, I would have been pissed and probably would have stopped buying CS folders. Heaven forbid that we expect a knife to work correctly right out of the box. Why would the OP enjoy using it if he felt like he got burned on the deal? It's not a 20 buck Kershaw junker, it's a hundred dollars--that's not "cheap" to me. OP asked a valid question, he (or she) got a couple of good responses--in particular, gonna have to remember the lock bar/ stop pin reversal warning for when I disassemble things. Problem solved, thread over, no need to flame the OP.
 
Mick_1KRR said:
Why dont you just go buy a different knife since you dont like just about everything about it. Maybe a liner or frame lock so in a couple years use you can post about how much the lock bar has worn out, how it's reached 100% lockup and how it has vertical play? Obviously your recon has a tiny bit of play vertically that will probably wear in with use, so what's the big fuss? Its an inexpensive knife, will stand up to more use and abuse than a $1000 custom frame lock folder and can be replaced any time for cheap. I just dont get what fuss is about. None of my recons have play anywhere, but there are some that do just cos of factory tolerances here and there. Just use the knife and enjoy it?
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I had never heard of a sloppy triad, so I didn't know it wasn't uncommon. As for me not liking "just about everything about it", all I can say is that you have a lot to learn if you think the name, looks, lock and clip make a great knife.

BitingSarcasm said:
I have had a couple of Triads that needed a break-in period where the lock would only set if snapped with force. If the first Triad I got had been like that, I would have been pissed and probably would have stopped buying CS folders. Heaven forbid that we expect a knife to work correctly right out of the box. Why would the OP enjoy using it if he felt like he got burned on the deal? It's not a 20 buck Kershaw junker, it's a hundred dollars--that's not "cheap" to me. OP asked a valid question, he (or she) got a couple of good responses--in particular, gonna have to remember the lock bar/ stop pin reversal warning for when I disassemble things. Problem solved, thread over, no need to flame the OP.
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I wasn't too thrilled at first for sure. Its good points have cast over the bad, and the benchmade and zt now play together nicely in the drawer. As for the flaming you mention, it is just a difference in our need and want. He probably has 40 badass blades, and the look and brand is very important to a collector. heck, I'd bet over 90 percent of the active members are collectors. The guys that collect knives drive a good percentage of the market, and that creates more options for me.
 
mcflyfyter said:
I had never heard of a sloppy triad, so I didn't know it wasn't uncommon. As for me not liking "just about everything about it", all I can say is that you have a lot to learn if you think the name, looks, lock and clip make a great knife.
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A lot to learn? Please...don't go making embarrassing assumptions like that. You cant seem to get past your micro vertical play and im giving you some simple factual information. Some have it but most don't, it's as simple as that. It will in no way ever interfere with the knifes function or fail on you.
 
A properly functioning Tri-Ad lock shouldn't have ANY vertical play (by design). In the locked position, the lug is wedged between the stop pin and the mortise of the blade heel.

This sounds like a candidate for a warranty claim, unless (as mentioned) the lock-bar pivot and the stop pin were switched.
 
Of around a dozen triad lock Cold Steels I ve bought, I ve never had a hint of any vertical blade play. Based on my understanding of that lock, and the way it wears, I don t think bladeplay is acceptable.
 
I only own one CS (mini recon aus8). I had a little slop and it was sticky unlocking. It also would stay opened a hair without springing closed sometimes. The fix for me was chamfering the spring slightly with some sand paper.

The spring's edges were digging into the aluminum back spacer and causing irregular movement when locking or unlocking. After chamfering the spring's edges it locks and unlocks very smoothly.

This might not be the case for you, though. If you like tinkering with your knives, you might see if the aluminum back spacer that the spring slides into is still rounded at the end or if the spring wore a divot in the backspacer that it's catching on.
 
I still haven't taken it apart to check it out, but the slop is still there. I just swapped it out for edc for my contego.
 
This doesn't sound right. Of all the Tri-Ads I've had (about a dozen and a half at this point), I've had two that had some up-down when new (XL Voyager and Tuff Lite), but they corrected themselves over about a month and a half or so (parts wearing in and mating better, I assume). If yours in still sloppy, I'd send it in to CS. :thumbsup:
 
G. Scott H. said:
This doesn't sound right. Of all the Tri-Ads I've had (about a dozen and a half at this point), I've had two that had some up-down when new (XL Voyager and Tuff Lite), but they corrected themselves over about a month and a half or so (parts wearing in and mating better, I assume). If yours in still sloppy, I'd send it in to CS. :thumbsup:
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It still functions 100%, so what ever I guess. I know how it is designed, and in theory should have zero play. Some day I will probably tear it apart and find some horrific machine marks or something. That probably won't happen anytime soon. I guess I just enjoy the mystery?
 
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